What is your OIL PSI @ IDLE
What is your OIL PSI @ IDLE
Well lately i've been hearing quite a bit of knocking and pinging noise from the engine. Now it could be one of two things.
1. Bad 87 Ocatane Gas (Shell or FJ)
2. Worn pistons and excesive knock.
when the engine is under load sometimes you can hear it very clearly. At the top gear if i step on the gas i can hear it ver well.
My Oil PSI at Idle is 20PSI does that sound about right.
1. Bad 87 Ocatane Gas (Shell or FJ)
2. Worn pistons and excesive knock.
when the engine is under load sometimes you can hear it very clearly. At the top gear if i step on the gas i can hear it ver well.
My Oil PSI at Idle is 20PSI does that sound about right.

- Diablo0
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Is it 20psi at warm or cold? I can let you know tomorrow what mine is at cold and warm when I'm in it for 6 hours lol
-Jason
Black '02 Neon R/T | White '02 Neon R/T - SRT-4 Engine Swap

^^^ no, that isn't what I look like haha
Try not to become a man of success but rather to become a man of value. - Albert Einstein
Black '02 Neon R/T | White '02 Neon R/T - SRT-4 Engine Swap

^^^ no, that isn't what I look like haha
Try not to become a man of success but rather to become a man of value. - Albert Einstein
Well mine at cold i think is around 30PSI and when the car warms up the oil gets thinner I guess and it drops to ~20PSI.
It used to hold ~60PSI at highway speed ~3000RPM and now it seems like its around 50ish. So i wonder if the motor is getting worn out and I am hearing the piston slap more and more or if its just a bad gas that makes the knocking noise.
It used to hold ~60PSI at highway speed ~3000RPM and now it seems like its around 50ish. So i wonder if the motor is getting worn out and I am hearing the piston slap more and more or if its just a bad gas that makes the knocking noise.

- Diablo0
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Reports online look to be
Cold Idle: 50 psi
Cold 3000 RPM: 80 psi
Warm idle: 25 psi
Warm 3000 rpm: 50 psi
Last I looked mine was at that, I'll doubt check it tomorrow. I just look at my gauge now and recognize where it's usually is and dont' really take note of the actual PSI.
Cold Idle: 50 psi
Cold 3000 RPM: 80 psi
Warm idle: 25 psi
Warm 3000 rpm: 50 psi
Last I looked mine was at that, I'll doubt check it tomorrow. I just look at my gauge now and recognize where it's usually is and dont' really take note of the actual PSI.
-Jason
Black '02 Neon R/T | White '02 Neon R/T - SRT-4 Engine Swap

^^^ no, that isn't what I look like haha
Try not to become a man of success but rather to become a man of value. - Albert Einstein
Black '02 Neon R/T | White '02 Neon R/T - SRT-4 Engine Swap

^^^ no, that isn't what I look like haha
Try not to become a man of success but rather to become a man of value. - Albert Einstein
- fixitmattman
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20lbs at warm idle is more than fine.
Has it been getting colder in Chicago lately? I know it's gotten colder up here again and my car's back to the same old cold neon clickity clack again.
Matt
Has it been getting colder in Chicago lately? I know it's gotten colder up here again and my car's back to the same old cold neon clickity clack again.
Matt
http://www.cardomain.com/profile/fixitmattman
How to fix your car:
1. Buy a Haynes manual
2. Read Haynes maual
3. Read and search appropriate threads, trust us, it's been covered before
4. Fix car
5. Consume beer of job well done
How to fix your car:
1. Buy a Haynes manual
2. Read Haynes maual
3. Read and search appropriate threads, trust us, it's been covered before
4. Fix car
5. Consume beer of job well done
Damn Cold 3000RPM is at 80PSI holy cow I've never seen my gauge past 60 or 65. Wow my engine must be worn out then or the freaking gauge is messed up.
I think I read somewhere that the oil system has a pressure relief valve that opens at 60PSI and thats why I figured my gauge reading 60 should be alright.
BTW what Oil are you guys running. I am on MOBIL 1 5W30 every 5000miles.
Ohhh man I get that when it gets cooler on every cold start up. This morning it was around 50 and i heard it it was light but i can tell its there.
I will try some 93 Gas tomorrow and see if the ticking is still there and if its not then I will not its not the motor however if it is still there then i guess its just a bad piston slap. Hmmm I may have to look into an SRT swap or something.
I think I read somewhere that the oil system has a pressure relief valve that opens at 60PSI and thats why I figured my gauge reading 60 should be alright.
BTW what Oil are you guys running. I am on MOBIL 1 5W30 every 5000miles.
fixitmattman wrote:20lbs at warm idle is more than fine.
Has it been getting colder in Chicago lately? I know it's gotten colder up here again and my car's back to the same old cold neon clickity clack again.
Matt
Ohhh man I get that when it gets cooler on every cold start up. This morning it was around 50 and i heard it it was light but i can tell its there.
I will try some 93 Gas tomorrow and see if the ticking is still there and if its not then I will not its not the motor however if it is still there then i guess its just a bad piston slap. Hmmm I may have to look into an SRT swap or something.

Mine oil psi did the same thing then my oil sender took a poo. It was reading pretty low, then all the sudden crusing at 3,000 rpms was at 70 or 80, then my gauge started to cut in and out, went to start it the next morning and my gauge no longer worked. Now I have a mechanical oil psi gauge and braided line waiting to be installed
Cant help you on the denation thing though.
Cant help you on the denation thing though.
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oklamopar
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Diablo0 wrote:Reports online look to be
Cold Idle: 50 psi
Cold 3000 RPM: 80 psi
Warm idle: 25 psi
Warm 3000 rpm: 50 psi
Last I looked mine was at that, I'll doubt check it tomorrow. I just look at my gauge now and recognize where it's usually is and dont' really take note of the actual PSI.
That's what mine does.... Im only a 35k though
cas. 5w30 every 1500 miles
Mopar Or No Car
GOD Allows U-Turns!
2002 R/T "Blackula" SOLD
1998 Neon Sport. wife's
2003 SRT-4 .FRANKENSTEIN. S1 "SOLD"
1998.5 Ram 3500 Quad-cab 4x2 DWR
1969 Dodge D100 SWB

GOD Allows U-Turns!
2002 R/T "Blackula" SOLD
1998 Neon Sport. wife's
2003 SRT-4 .FRANKENSTEIN. S1 "SOLD"
1998.5 Ram 3500 Quad-cab 4x2 DWR
1969 Dodge D100 SWB

Some of us don't want a potential hydraulic leak inside our cars...Canuck_2k wrote:ricer w/ the ricer gauge lol
u shoulda gotten the mechical cuz it s wayyyyyyyyyyy much more accurate.
engine cold cold 75psi @ idle, engine warm 25psi @ idle
01' Neon ACR - SOLD - Its Alive!Thx Sean!
06' Subaru WRX STI - OTS Stage II
07 - Dodge Charger SRT-8 Super Bee #0267
01' Dodge Ram 5.7 - The Mall Crawler
06' Subaru WRX STI - OTS Stage II
07 - Dodge Charger SRT-8 Super Bee #0267
01' Dodge Ram 5.7 - The Mall Crawler
- soul_sword34
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I've been around mechanical pressure gauges all my life and have never seen a drop of leaking fluid. Well just once but that was because my buddy used white teflon tape instead of yellow.grambo wrote:Some of us don't want a potential hydraulic leak inside our cars...Canuck_2k wrote:ricer w/ the ricer gauge lol
u shoulda gotten the mechical cuz it s wayyyyyyyyyyy much more accurate.
engine cold cold 75psi @ idle, engine warm 25psi @ idle
Project Log viewtopic.php?t=27630
MP 60mm TB, K&N filter, Magnaflow muffler, Deyeme solid torque struts, MTX 3.55, Kyle shift end links, Booger bushings, Mopure STS, Powerslot rotors, 15" Rota Slipstreams, Falken Ziex 512's, Koni Yellow inserts, Hotchkis sways, Eibach pro springs. Work in progress.
MP 60mm TB, K&N filter, Magnaflow muffler, Deyeme solid torque struts, MTX 3.55, Kyle shift end links, Booger bushings, Mopure STS, Powerslot rotors, 15" Rota Slipstreams, Falken Ziex 512's, Koni Yellow inserts, Hotchkis sways, Eibach pro springs. Work in progress.
Oh thats true. Yellow FTW!!! haha Yeah pops has been building drag cars and hot rods since before I was a twitch in his wang. He never had a problem either.
Where I have had problems is at work on 900KW Waukesha generators and 350KW Caterpillars...I've lost two hydraulic guages on their monitoring panels and that gets really messy inside a control room...not good at all...
I whole heartedly agree with the "better" readings from hydraulics though they are WAY more precise than an ohm reading from an electrical unit.
Generally speaking though, on a NEON, we are looking for a complete failure so we can shut the car down an save our 2.0's. Anything below 25psi and my shit is parked. Anything above 75 psi and my rev limiter has prolly failed and I'm goin' for broke trying to beat somebody at the track.....haha
Where I have had problems is at work on 900KW Waukesha generators and 350KW Caterpillars...I've lost two hydraulic guages on their monitoring panels and that gets really messy inside a control room...not good at all...
I whole heartedly agree with the "better" readings from hydraulics though they are WAY more precise than an ohm reading from an electrical unit.
Generally speaking though, on a NEON, we are looking for a complete failure so we can shut the car down an save our 2.0's. Anything below 25psi and my shit is parked. Anything above 75 psi and my rev limiter has prolly failed and I'm goin' for broke trying to beat somebody at the track.....haha
01' Neon ACR - SOLD - Its Alive!Thx Sean!
06' Subaru WRX STI - OTS Stage II
07 - Dodge Charger SRT-8 Super Bee #0267
01' Dodge Ram 5.7 - The Mall Crawler
06' Subaru WRX STI - OTS Stage II
07 - Dodge Charger SRT-8 Super Bee #0267
01' Dodge Ram 5.7 - The Mall Crawler
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