engine oil
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alsey_seven
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engine oil
what type of engine oil is good--------best?
i have 120,000 miles
i have 120,000 miles
- spencersummerfield
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- fixitmattman
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Cheapo Wamart tech 2000 yo
Matt
Matt
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How to fix your car:
1. Buy a Haynes manual
2. Read Haynes maual
3. Read and search appropriate threads, trust us, it's been covered before
4. Fix car
5. Consume beer of job well done
How to fix your car:
1. Buy a Haynes manual
2. Read Haynes maual
3. Read and search appropriate threads, trust us, it's been covered before
4. Fix car
5. Consume beer of job well done
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2k2patriotblueneon
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WiTeOuT wrote:spencersummerfield wrote:Mobile 1 synthetic 5w-30
synthetic all the way!!!
2002 Dodge Neon SE
Mopar Stage 3 Coilovers w/Energy Suspension Polyurethane Bushings
SRT Swap in progress
SRT is powered by an AGP 50 trim stage 4 ball bearing turbo kit
When finished will run no less then 400 HP.

Mopar Stage 3 Coilovers w/Energy Suspension Polyurethane Bushings
SRT Swap in progress
SRT is powered by an AGP 50 trim stage 4 ball bearing turbo kit
When finished will run no less then 400 HP.

U realize thou that the Castrol Syntec is not a truly synthetic oil like the mobil 1 and the royal purple stuff.... actually they got sued a while back for misrepresenting their products. It was something in the oil that didnt make it 100% synthetic.J-Villa wrote:mobil one in my opinion sucks...well shouldn't say sucks bc it is very good....BUT when i did use it holy hell it made the neon "tick" 3 times as loud..but i'm back to my castrol synthetic stuff i have been using since i got my 02
I've been using it for as long as i had the car which was when the car had 000004 miles on the odometer. Not a single problem with it. It helps in the winter because it doesnt change its viscosity as much as the regular mineral oil and I believe that it protects the engine better especially with the 5000mile intervals that i am doing.
Mobile 1 4 life....

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2003silverneonsxt
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scneonchic
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Anything special need to be done when changing from cheap oil to synthetic?

AEM CAI w/bypass valve, Screamin Deamon coil, Crane Firewire 8.5mm wires, Prothane race inserts, DC rear strut bar, 16in Konig incidents, and universal muffler.
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racer12306
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DaViK: no
alsey_seven: unless you know the history of the vehicle i would be wary about using a synthetic oil. synthetic oils are good, but if you are not planning to run the piss out of the car or go really long oil change intervals then a conventional oil will suit your car well. if it were me i would pick a conventional oil in the 5w30 flavor for year round use. what brand you pick would be personal preference because pretty much all oils now meet the SM spec, if they dont then they meet the SL spec and either way an SL or an SM oil is a damn good oil. supertech, castrol, pennzoil, mobil, etc doesnt matter they will all protect your car sufficiently and you will get a long life out of your car with 3000 - 4000 mile oil change intervals.
alsey_seven: unless you know the history of the vehicle i would be wary about using a synthetic oil. synthetic oils are good, but if you are not planning to run the piss out of the car or go really long oil change intervals then a conventional oil will suit your car well. if it were me i would pick a conventional oil in the 5w30 flavor for year round use. what brand you pick would be personal preference because pretty much all oils now meet the SM spec, if they dont then they meet the SL spec and either way an SL or an SM oil is a damn good oil. supertech, castrol, pennzoil, mobil, etc doesnt matter they will all protect your car sufficiently and you will get a long life out of your car with 3000 - 4000 mile oil change intervals.
-Frank
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Ive used both royal purple and mobile one -
Honestly as far as performance and noise - they both are about the same - I like royal purple better b/c it cleans better
Run royal purple for about 1500 miles - change it out - run royal purple for another 1500 miles - change it out again and then drop back to every 3000-5000 miles - the egine will be super clean
Honestly as far as performance and noise - they both are about the same - I like royal purple better b/c it cleans better
Run royal purple for about 1500 miles - change it out - run royal purple for another 1500 miles - change it out again and then drop back to every 3000-5000 miles - the egine will be super clean
2K4 E-Blue SRT | 2K4 Red SRT (SOLD) | 2k2 White R/T (SOLD) | 2k3 Blaze Red SXT *RIP*

"Everything seems tempting, But nothing comes for free...
I often wonder how you drive, when the roads too dark to see..." - LOST PROPHETS

"Everything seems tempting, But nothing comes for free...
I often wonder how you drive, when the roads too dark to see..." - LOST PROPHETS
- BlackRoseRacing
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- TheNumberOneD
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Noisy bad? as in the engine rattling, or noisy good, as in load idle?
anywho, the oil cap says 5w20, so is there a reason why i should get 5w30 synthetic instead of 5w20, which is recommended for our.. errr my car?
Edit------
I live in texas, and it' doesn't hardly get that cold here, but is does it have something to do with temp...
and.....! so whats better!? you just named every oil under the sun just now, and basically the only idea i have is.. use mobile, valvoline, Q, purple, or penzoil... :-p... don't know if all of those were mentioned, but that still leaves me with a blank... and i need a oil change in 150 miles.
anywho, the oil cap says 5w20, so is there a reason why i should get 5w30 synthetic instead of 5w20, which is recommended for our.. errr my car?
Edit------
I live in texas, and it' doesn't hardly get that cold here, but is does it have something to do with temp...
and.....! so whats better!? you just named every oil under the sun just now, and basically the only idea i have is.. use mobile, valvoline, Q, purple, or penzoil... :-p... don't know if all of those were mentioned, but that still leaves me with a blank... and i need a oil change in 150 miles.
~Daniel
'2005 Dodge Neon SRT-4
'2005 Dodge Neon SRT-4
- TheNumberOneD
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well mine says 5w20, my oil cap says 5w20, the mopar release form about oil for the 2005 sxt says 5w20.. so i'm preety sure, for my vehicle... it's 5w20
that said who makes a good 5w20 oil.. and what kind of oil filter should i go for..
basically, it's a brand new car, and i want to do it right, to make my car last longer.
that said who makes a good 5w20 oil.. and what kind of oil filter should i go for..
basically, it's a brand new car, and i want to do it right, to make my car last longer.
~Daniel
'2005 Dodge Neon SRT-4
'2005 Dodge Neon SRT-4
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alsey_seven
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racer12306 wrote:DaViK: no
alsey_seven: unless you know the history of the vehicle i would be wary about using a synthetic oil. synthetic oils are good, but if you are not planning to run the piss out of the car or go really long oil change intervals then a conventional oil will suit your car well. if it were me i would pick a conventional oil in the 5w30 flavor for year round use. what brand you pick would be personal preference because pretty much all oils now meet the SM spec, if they dont then they meet the SL spec and either way an SL or an SM oil is a damn good oil. supertech, castrol, pennzoil, mobil, etc doesnt matter they will all protect your car sufficiently and you will get a long life out of your car with 3000 - 4000 mile oil change intervals.
well i drive about close to 900 miles a week, and yes i do drive fast and hard.
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racer12306
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holy shit, 900/week
check out this site: www.auto-rx.com
follow there instructions to the letter, if you get it. i have heard great things about it. that is if you want to switch to synthetic.
but if you dont mind changing your oil every 3 weeks stick with conventional.
if you switch to synthetic, get an oil analysis done at 5000 miles, then base your oil change intervals on what the lab says. check out blackstone laboritories. you might even be able to go up to 5000 miles on conventional, but i would suggest getting an analysis done as well to make sure you arent hurting your engine, if you go that long.
check out this site: www.auto-rx.com
follow there instructions to the letter, if you get it. i have heard great things about it. that is if you want to switch to synthetic.
but if you dont mind changing your oil every 3 weeks stick with conventional.
if you switch to synthetic, get an oil analysis done at 5000 miles, then base your oil change intervals on what the lab says. check out blackstone laboritories. you might even be able to go up to 5000 miles on conventional, but i would suggest getting an analysis done as well to make sure you arent hurting your engine, if you go that long.
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- TheNumberOneD
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that fine and dandy, but wouldn't switching to synthetic do the same thing as the product? i mean.. does synthetic clean the engine as well? or just help lubricate...
cause if what they say is true, then i should definitley do it, cause i'm right around 21000 miles, and most build up is in teh first 25000..
the only reason i'm so concerned is i was idleing at 6000 rpms and i was hearing piston slaps when the car wasn't warmed up for the first time since i've had it..
i'm 100 miles away from next 3000 mile oil change too.. so that might be the only reason... but it kinda scared me..
cause if what they say is true, then i should definitley do it, cause i'm right around 21000 miles, and most build up is in teh first 25000..
the only reason i'm so concerned is i was idleing at 6000 rpms and i was hearing piston slaps when the car wasn't warmed up for the first time since i've had it..
i'm 100 miles away from next 3000 mile oil change too.. so that might be the only reason... but it kinda scared me..
~Daniel
'2005 Dodge Neon SRT-4
'2005 Dodge Neon SRT-4
- Diablo0
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Synthetic helps lubricate in high RPMs when more stress is put on parts such as the rod bearings and things of that nature. Conventional oils are inconsistent in their molecule makeup where smaller molecules are burned up or the larger ones are pushed out of the way under high pressure. Synthetics are more uniform where everything is engineered to be the same shape and size as the next molecule. They're also able to take an extreme heat where conventional oils start to burn off or sludge. To say that one is slippery than another I find a little hard to believe as then how could the oil still be labeled as the same weight as a conventional oil... 5W30 conventional and 5W30 synthetic should have the same viscosity as they both have the same viscosity rating.
I personally am sticking to Mobile1 products. I've used Leading Edge and that oil is quite nice but the only way to get it is to buy it online through Modern and sometimes there just isn’t' time to wait for it to arrive in the mail. Another thing that earlier this year when I was in Dallas and Ed Peters was speaking he brought up the subject of oil and what brand is better than another, he highly suggested to stick to Major brands such as Mobile. Companies such as Asmoil, Royal Purple, companies that aren't quite as major compared to Mobile while they may make just as good of oil as Mobile, their quality control may not be as good as the larger companies. Companies such as Mobile are more likely to test each batch of oil they produce to make sure each bottle they ship out is identical the one sent out 2 months ago and there wasn't what you might call 'brewing' mistake along the way. Whether or not Asmoil or Royal Purple does or doesn't do such things to each batch they make and bottle, I dunno or even if Mobile does the same thing but he did bring up another good point, the machinery used to test or analyze each batch made is quite expensive where smaller companies may not be able to afford and larger ones such as Mobile have more resources and money to buy those types of machinery.
I'm sticking to my Mobile oil, for most of my cars life thats what I've been putting in it.
I personally am sticking to Mobile1 products. I've used Leading Edge and that oil is quite nice but the only way to get it is to buy it online through Modern and sometimes there just isn’t' time to wait for it to arrive in the mail. Another thing that earlier this year when I was in Dallas and Ed Peters was speaking he brought up the subject of oil and what brand is better than another, he highly suggested to stick to Major brands such as Mobile. Companies such as Asmoil, Royal Purple, companies that aren't quite as major compared to Mobile while they may make just as good of oil as Mobile, their quality control may not be as good as the larger companies. Companies such as Mobile are more likely to test each batch of oil they produce to make sure each bottle they ship out is identical the one sent out 2 months ago and there wasn't what you might call 'brewing' mistake along the way. Whether or not Asmoil or Royal Purple does or doesn't do such things to each batch they make and bottle, I dunno or even if Mobile does the same thing but he did bring up another good point, the machinery used to test or analyze each batch made is quite expensive where smaller companies may not be able to afford and larger ones such as Mobile have more resources and money to buy those types of machinery.
I'm sticking to my Mobile oil, for most of my cars life thats what I've been putting in it.
-Jason
Black '02 Neon R/T | White '02 Neon R/T - SRT-4 Engine Swap

^^^ no, that isn't what I look like haha
Try not to become a man of success but rather to become a man of value. - Albert Einstein
Black '02 Neon R/T | White '02 Neon R/T - SRT-4 Engine Swap

^^^ no, that isn't what I look like haha
Try not to become a man of success but rather to become a man of value. - Albert Einstein
I hope you mean 600 rpms. Thats relatively normal. I drilled a 1/8" hole in my throttle body to increase idle just a bit. might be worth a try.the only reason i'm so concerned is i was idleing at 6000 rpms and i was hearing piston slaps when the car wasn't warmed up for the first time since i've had it..
as for piston slap, I doubt you'll fix that by changing your oil. It's somewhat normal as well for the first minute you run your car on a cold morning. It's a neon, if it doesn't sound like it's breaking, it's probably not working right.
2000 Plymouth Neon MTX
Mods: Aem cai, Powder Coated Valve Cover, Pretty Taillights, Alpine Deck, rt exhaust, mpx underdrive pulley msd wires.
Mods: Aem cai, Powder Coated Valve Cover, Pretty Taillights, Alpine Deck, rt exhaust, mpx underdrive pulley msd wires.
Ive been told that royal purple isnt worth the price or the hype. Its supposedly no better than any other oil, and has been tested to be even LESS effective in some ways. my geeky engine teacher told me that; i guess he knew a guy who worked for an oil company or something. just my 2 cents. im a mobil 1 guy myself, and its never done me wrong. 5w-20scneonchic wrote:I am about to start using royal purple next month. I think wisher2 uses it and says alot of the knocking is gone
-Derek
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- Neonisti2000
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Little off-topic...but:skuttler wrote:I hope you mean 600 rpms. Thats relatively normal. I drilled a 1/8" hole in my throttle body to increase idle just a bit. might be worth a try.
- Why drill a small hole to the throttle body butterfly"valve"....?
I've got the 5-speed with the stock throttle body and it's got an adjustment screw right under the place where the accelerator cable connects the throt body.
By adjusting the screw, you can control the amount of air that passes throt body valve when when it's closed or near it. In other words, you can adjust the engines idle.
You can't see or adjust the screw unless you take the filter box off but after that it's easy to see...
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2k2patriotblueneon
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Because thats adjusting the actual fuel and air being delivered on idle. If you want to correct the stumble you should drill the hole and it will only adjust air saving a very small amount of fuel as opposed to your way. Your way isn't really a fix per say its just like holding the gas pedal down a tiney bit to keep it running.Neonisti2000 wrote:Little off-topic...but:skuttler wrote:I hope you mean 600 rpms. Thats relatively normal. I drilled a 1/8" hole in my throttle body to increase idle just a bit. might be worth a try.
- Why drill a small hole to the throttle body butterfly"valve"....?
I've got the 5-speed with the stock throttle body and it's got an adjustment screw right under the place where the accelerator cable connects the throt body.
By adjusting the screw, you can control the amount of air that passes throt body valve when when it's closed or near it. In other words, you can adjust the engines idle.
You can't see or adjust the screw unless you take the filter box off but after that it's easy to see...
2002 Dodge Neon SE
Mopar Stage 3 Coilovers w/Energy Suspension Polyurethane Bushings
SRT Swap in progress
SRT is powered by an AGP 50 trim stage 4 ball bearing turbo kit
When finished will run no less then 400 HP.

Mopar Stage 3 Coilovers w/Energy Suspension Polyurethane Bushings
SRT Swap in progress
SRT is powered by an AGP 50 trim stage 4 ball bearing turbo kit
When finished will run no less then 400 HP.

- TheNumberOneD
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oh.. right i meant 600 rpms, sorry...
but thats a good point, but i've heard alot about mobile, compared to penzoil, and penzoil is a major oil company as well.. yes?
i got to just pick something and go with it.. that what i'm thinkin....
i'm probably gonna do that cleanin engine stuff as well, when i get around 30,000 miles.. and make a habit to do it every 15,000...
not like i'm trying to be crazy or anything about it, it's just i've had a problem with engines blowing rods in the past, and i don't need that to happen to my neon.
Thanks, for all the info.
but thats a good point, but i've heard alot about mobile, compared to penzoil, and penzoil is a major oil company as well.. yes?
i got to just pick something and go with it.. that what i'm thinkin....
i'm probably gonna do that cleanin engine stuff as well, when i get around 30,000 miles.. and make a habit to do it every 15,000...
not like i'm trying to be crazy or anything about it, it's just i've had a problem with engines blowing rods in the past, and i don't need that to happen to my neon.
Thanks, for all the info.
~Daniel
'2005 Dodge Neon SRT-4
'2005 Dodge Neon SRT-4
- BlackRoseRacing
- 2009 Platinum Contributor
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As of 6pm tonight I now have 5-30 Royal Purple Synthetic oil in my car...
The first 30seconds of me starting the car.....No noise!!! no valvetrain tick no piston slap, nothing.....
I shut the car down, checked the oil level, started it back up and bam, quiet as can be...mmm
OK, Lets see what happens when im up to operating temps and drive the car hard then come to an idle...normally with Mobil 1 you still hear some valvetrain chatter,ticking something....
With the royal purple...Nothing!
I even stopeed at a local store with the engine HOT, let it idle, and normally it would have an eratic tic now and then....with RP nothing....
I was very sceptical about switching from Mobil1 to RP and I'll tell you this much, I put 600miles on my car in one day for the albany trip, 2 weeks later I have run roughly another 600miles on the 5-20 M1...
When I drained the oil today it was black as hell!
Now before I went on the albany trip I had pushed my oil change to 5k miles, first time ever and when I drained it then before the meet, the oil came out like I was driving a diesel engine....black as heck, stained everything, and poured out like water....
2 weeks later the oil looked the same
This is just my experience with Mobil1 on my daily driver with 43k on the odometer but as of now, I might stick with RP to see what happens. Also running the RP oil makes the typical 02 UDP problem not kick in until 5600-5800rpm...also the car is more responsive...
The first 30seconds of me starting the car.....No noise!!! no valvetrain tick no piston slap, nothing.....
I shut the car down, checked the oil level, started it back up and bam, quiet as can be...mmm
OK, Lets see what happens when im up to operating temps and drive the car hard then come to an idle...normally with Mobil 1 you still hear some valvetrain chatter,ticking something....
With the royal purple...Nothing!
I even stopeed at a local store with the engine HOT, let it idle, and normally it would have an eratic tic now and then....with RP nothing....
I was very sceptical about switching from Mobil1 to RP and I'll tell you this much, I put 600miles on my car in one day for the albany trip, 2 weeks later I have run roughly another 600miles on the 5-20 M1...
When I drained the oil today it was black as hell!
Now before I went on the albany trip I had pushed my oil change to 5k miles, first time ever and when I drained it then before the meet, the oil came out like I was driving a diesel engine....black as heck, stained everything, and poured out like water....
2 weeks later the oil looked the same
This is just my experience with Mobil1 on my daily driver with 43k on the odometer but as of now, I might stick with RP to see what happens. Also running the RP oil makes the typical 02 UDP problem not kick in until 5600-5800rpm...also the car is more responsive...
Last edited by BlackRoseRacing on Fri Sep 29, 2006 5:44 am, edited 1 time in total.
- TheNumberOneD
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wow.. everytime i here something on mobile 1 syn, people say it makes their car tick, and ever time i hear something like penzoil or purple it's nothing but good things...
i think i'm gonna go with penz plat this next time around 5w30, and see hoe clean it looks after the first 3000 miles, and if it's dirty! then i'm gonna use that cleaner stuff, and see how clean i can get the oil to look after every 3000 miles.
i think i'm gonna go with penz plat this next time around 5w30, and see hoe clean it looks after the first 3000 miles, and if it's dirty! then i'm gonna use that cleaner stuff, and see how clean i can get the oil to look after every 3000 miles.
~Daniel
'2005 Dodge Neon SRT-4
'2005 Dodge Neon SRT-4



