Clutch letting go?

Questions about axles, transmissions, differentials, pretty much anything that connects the engine to the wheels, this is the place for those questions.
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01NeonR/T
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Clutch letting go?

Post by 01NeonR/T » Sat Oct 07, 2006 3:59 am

So I finally replace my old clutch with just an OEM unit from Sachs. The car suffered bad symptoms which led me to believe it was the clutch, so I replaced it. Well, after I break in the clutch, I try giving it the full throttle squeeze and the problem is there again. Now I have no idea what is wrong, but have good suspicions its somewhere in the drivetrain. The symptoms are under hard acceleration or basically anything past half throttle, hitting it too fast will result in the engine bucking for a bit and just feel like no power is going to the wheels, as if the clutch just lets go. Sometimes bad clunking sounds underheed can be heard. SOMETHING is broken down there.... But I just changed the clutch, what else could it be? I have Fast Fabs motor mounts and a Deyeme filled trans mount so it vibrates. I dont know if these have an adverse affect or not. I'm just stumped, and short of a transmission rebuild, don't know what to do. Also, under slo and deliberate acceleration the car does not do this, only when I jump on the throttle. Advice would be appreciated.
Cars I've been through:
1989 Toyota Supra Turbo (still have it, non-running)
1994 Acura Integra (wrecked)
1994 Chrysler New Yorker (still have it, mom's now)
1990 Honda Civic AWD Wagon (stolen)
1998 Honda Civic LX (stolen)
1994 Nissan Pickup (bought from uncle, sold back to him)
2001 Dodge Neon R/T (wrecked)
1998 Lexus GS300 (current)
1999 BMW 528i Sport (current)

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submaster.nick
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Post by submaster.nick » Mon Oct 09, 2006 11:02 am

did you replace the master cylinder when you replaced the clutch...If you did you should just bleed the clutch and see di that fixes the problem

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blue demon02
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Post by blue demon02 » Tue Oct 10, 2006 10:59 am

Thats not a clutch problome. If ther ewas air in the system it wouldn't engage in the first place. Once its engaged and locked it should hold. (that is if the clutch is not bad) Check for other things. the clunking could be a lot of things. Need to find out where exactly the clunking is coming from. As far as the bogging at half to WOT check fora clogged CAT or bad fuel pump. Are you getting any codes?????
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wickedneonrt
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Post by wickedneonrt » Thu Nov 16, 2006 1:12 am

"bucking a bit" mean multiple times? I've got kind of a hiccup in third gear also. Step on it too quick it thinks about it then shoots off. sucks when you go to pass a car. I' done about everything there is to do to the car aftermarket wise with add ons. Mine doesnt clunk though. If yours is a hiccup thing like mine we might have a crappy coil or something ignition wise. We'd have to see if we share any aftermarket components. The clunk may not be the cause. Since your at full or close to full throttle it may be the motor or suspension motion. You know what i mean? since your at full throttle but the motor isnt yet, when it does go it kinda snaps and that momentum of 1100 rpm to 6500 rpm may cause something to move (cv joint, loose suspension,) . i dunno.
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Loud-e-nuf
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Post by Loud-e-nuf » Thu Nov 16, 2006 7:49 am

Did you verify no motor mounts or their bolts are broken?
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01NeonR/T
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Post by 01NeonR/T » Thu Dec 14, 2006 1:46 am

I replaced my axles today to no avail. I checked the mounts and bolts on the engine side and they seem to be fine. The only bolt I have a problem with is a transmission bracket bolt that is stripped so I only put 3 of them fully on. I don't think that would cause this much movement though. Could there be some sort of a pressure plate allowing the clutch to let go? Or maybe that transmission bracket? I'm stumped here and might be forced to either sell the car for cheap or buy a new transmission outright...
Cars I've been through:
1989 Toyota Supra Turbo (still have it, non-running)
1994 Acura Integra (wrecked)
1994 Chrysler New Yorker (still have it, mom's now)
1990 Honda Civic AWD Wagon (stolen)
1998 Honda Civic LX (stolen)
1994 Nissan Pickup (bought from uncle, sold back to him)
2001 Dodge Neon R/T (wrecked)
1998 Lexus GS300 (current)
1999 BMW 528i Sport (current)

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hansken_yo
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Post by hansken_yo » Thu Dec 14, 2006 2:38 am

What about unlevel motor mounts?
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01NeonR/T
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Posts: 315
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Location: California

Post by 01NeonR/T » Thu Dec 14, 2006 5:21 pm

Un level motor mounts? I don't really know how to check for that. However, why would unleveled motor mounts be an issue if the car starts off fine, then under WOT or just stamping on the gas, it seems to let go?
Cars I've been through:
1989 Toyota Supra Turbo (still have it, non-running)
1994 Acura Integra (wrecked)
1994 Chrysler New Yorker (still have it, mom's now)
1990 Honda Civic AWD Wagon (stolen)
1998 Honda Civic LX (stolen)
1994 Nissan Pickup (bought from uncle, sold back to him)
2001 Dodge Neon R/T (wrecked)
1998 Lexus GS300 (current)
1999 BMW 528i Sport (current)

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hansken_yo
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Joined: Wed Oct 11, 2006 10:54 am
Location: Washington

Post by hansken_yo » Thu Dec 14, 2006 5:39 pm

I'm by no means an expert, but someone was telling me about the original motor mounts in their car being off, and it lead to instability in the engine and drive train....causing a lot of problems. (second hand info) You mentioned having worked on your mounts and it just came to mind... SOOOO... If anyone knows first hand on this please chime in...
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| - John || Project Log || Official I'm Going To Drive My Neon Till It Dies Club #000001 |
Everyone knows that for breasts to be "perfect" they need to be within reach.

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