o2 sensor

Panhead · Post by **Panhead** » Mon Oct 09, 2006 9:39 pm

i think in the manual it says that the o2 sensor should be replace every 60k miles. however ive been noticing milage was kinda below average and car kinda bogging out goin up hills. when my first set of sparkplugs went, it was misfiring and then i got the bosch p4 i had the misfire again(lesson learned, dont get them). both times i drove it home with it misfiring. could be the o2 sensor be bad or just not reading right? i thought about changing it since my car has 51k. i need some input on what i should do. thanks.

ewetho · Post by **ewetho** » Mon Oct 09, 2006 10:46 pm

If you have access to a scanner (not just a code reader) check for cross counts and see if it is reponding well. It should switch back and forth above and below .5 VDC. Lean rich lean rich lean rich etc. etc. etc..... This is to make sure the cat can work correctly.

Might want to check for a Mopar one then aftermarket. Read that some have been disappointed on occasion by after-market stuff. Make sure to use some good fuel injector cleaner.

I have had great success with Redline SL-1 and seen good results with BG 44K which is a little harder to come by but very good. The BG stuff is getting part numbers from Jap car companies to clean and decarbonise cars that run bad and are otherwise just fine.

Panhead · Post by **Panhead** » Mon Oct 09, 2006 10:52 pm

i will be getting the mopar o2 sensor. i dont have a scanner and i have been using fuel injector cleaner once in awhile. not much of a difference either.

ewetho · Post by **ewetho** » Mon Oct 09, 2006 11:30 pm

Hopefully not but the best ones I know of are

Chevron Techron
Redline SL-1
BG 44K

Redline I have seen make a big difference on cars, bikes, lawnmowers etc. Even tested it in school with a 5 GAS and you could see the difference. But if you are clean to start with probably won't help much.

Have you had any codes at all??? Probably need to watch scan data while driving when it is likely to bog. This may be the most telling thing about what is going on. The O2 can affect milage in the longer run but is not a primary input for engine operation just a tailoring/checking input.

Engine normally just take a Barometric Pressure check on startup and then tailors fuel and timing base on Manifold Absolute Pressure , Throttle Position Sensor, and Inlet Air Temp. Once you have that they just calculate the fuel and timing delivery and then check it and start trimming it a bit wit the O2. So bogging may be an indication of clogged cat, or sensor feedback error (not giving an accurate reading but still within normal parameters, such as saying throttle is open 50% when it is open 25% and then giving the wrong amount of fuel). One that has been nagging at me lately is the later with a map sensor getting oil fouled (Not that a neon would ever get oil in the intake, what, that would never happen). Have seen oil fouled Map sensors on similar setups have drivability issues cleared up by changing oil fouled map sensors, and then you have a clean MAP sensor signal to the PCM which give the initial BARO reading and then the primary sensor reading for fuel delivery.

Of course they monitor cam and cranks sensor info for fuel and spark timing.

Panhead · Post by **Panhead** » Tue Oct 10, 2006 12:46 am

i dont have any codes or none lately but do you think a 180 tstat will make it run rich? i am going to check my map sensor tomorrow and might get one at the dealer.

BlackRoseRacing · Post by **BlackRoseRacing** » Tue Oct 10, 2006 5:37 am

you think a 180 tstat will make it run rich

^^^
No, or atleast not all the time...
Ive been running the 180 stat in my car for months now with no problems what so ever and averaging 28-30mpg(normal driving)
As for the MAP sensor, I never would have thought about that one....mmm

So what plugs are you using now?
What gap do you have them at?
What plug wires are you running?
Did you put dielectric grease on the plug boots before installing them?

There are alot of variables that come into play when it comes to a misfire, the information being provided by "ewetho" is very usefull and to bad he is not on here to help out often enough

submaster.nick · Post by **submaster.nick** » Tue Oct 10, 2006 8:59 am

things to check are your air filter, your fuel filter, spark plugs and depending on mileage your cat might be clogged that could be why it is bogging down

Panhead · Post by **Panhead** » Tue Oct 10, 2006 1:32 pm

BlackRoseRacing wrote: So what plugs are you using now?
What gap do you have them at?
What plug wires are you running?
Did you put dielectric grease on the plug boots before installing them?

i am using champions but im not liking them alot. im using cheap duralast wires. im going to get some new ones today (not duralast). i want to see if i can get mopar performace wires and see what happens. im running a .35 gap. and to answer your last question, no.

BlackRoseRacing · Post by **BlackRoseRacing** » Tue Oct 10, 2006 7:53 pm

MP wires are great, ive used the same set through 2 different cars and 3 different motors...
As for the Champ plugs, I tell people to many times to get rid of them but no one listens....
Throw in a set of NAPA blue wires, use Dielectric grease, then use some NGK plugs standard,iridium or platinums...then go from there....

Panhead · Post by **Panhead** » Tue Oct 10, 2006 9:20 pm

i went to 3 local dodge dealerships to see if they carry the MP wires in stock, none of them had. they all said it could take week to get them in. said fuck it, not waiting for that long.

is iridium better than platinums or vise-versa?

ewetho · Post by **ewetho** » Wed Oct 11, 2006 1:20 am

Iridium is more durable exposed than platinum and slightly better in long term use and also allows for DIS ignitions. Great plugs and very common on new cars today. Will it really make a performance difference as in HP. NOPE. So standard NGKs are just fine. Heck I just put in Autolite Double Platinum's so I would not have to change them for a while.

Dielectric grease is a good thing if you plan on taking off the wires anytime soon.