axle??

TNK · Post by **TNK** » Mon Jan 10, 2005 2:55 am

i was making a left hand turn tongiht.. and i heard a "tick tick tick tick tick" coming from the right front wheel well... is this my axle or could it possibly be something else cheaper (or maybe more expensive

)? if it's the axle... how much are those?

DjTransifi · Post by **DjTransifi** » Mon Jan 10, 2005 3:04 am

Usualy when you turn and you start to hear clicks.... Could be you CV Joints. Check your boots.. Might be cracked, could of let dirt in and jacked the joints up. Word of advice.. Fix them as soon as you can. The sooner you do it the easier and cheaper it will be. Plus the longer you let them go, not only would the noise get worse, it starts to become dangerous.

eVilcreations · Post by **eVilcreations** » Mon Jan 10, 2005 9:33 am

just had to change mine not too long ago......could also be your hub/spindle bearing......I had to replace that too....

n3on2k2 · Post by **n3on2k2** » Mon Jan 10, 2005 9:50 am

a def wheel bearing problem

evlneon · Post by **evlneon** » Mon Jan 10, 2005 2:47 pm

bearings make a grinding noise, not ticking.
also you'll hear it all the time,
not just when turning.

ticking comes from cv joints like Dj said.

TNK · Post by **TNK** » Mon Jan 10, 2005 3:18 pm

how much do the cvs cost?

DannyBoy · Post by **DannyBoy** » Mon Jan 10, 2005 9:01 pm

And when you take off the old one, when you are taking it out, pry the axle out, do not pull on it to get it out.

01NeonRT · Post by **01NeonRT** » Mon Jan 10, 2005 9:10 pm

Jack the car up on that side, grab the wheel, and if you can move it up/down, side/side, the bearing is fucked.

Louie · Post by **Louie** » Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:15 pm

actually. ...

it could be much simpler. .

check the tq on your wheelstuds. .

could save you a ton of money on returning cv coints (dont ask how i know)

DjTransifi · Post by **DjTransifi** » Tue Jan 11, 2005 2:04 am

or take all of our advice.. As for the price.. Not really sure on that one.. You might have to go to the dealer on that one.. Either I was blind or stupid but I looked it up on Autozone and all the have listed is a CV HALFSHAFT . You might have to go to dodge for this one. Bend over and get ready for them to screw you over on there price..

TNK · Post by **TNK** » Tue Jan 11, 2005 2:28 am

i haven't heard it since last night, i dunno what it is/was.. weverytime i turn the music down and listen... but i dont hear it anymore. we'll see what happens

eVilcreations · Post by **eVilcreations** » Tue Jan 11, 2005 7:18 am

DjTransifi wrote:or take all of our advice.. As for the price.. Not really sure on that one.. You might have to go to the dealer on that one.. Either I was blind or stupid but I looked it up on Autozone and all the have listed is a CV HALFSHAFT . You might have to go to dodge for this one. Bend over and get ready for them to screw you over on there price..

I have had to replace 2 now(driver and pass. sides) they don't offer just the cv joint, not even dodge....you have to replace the whole axle(halfshaft)......

RTst · Post by **RTst** » Tue Jan 11, 2005 8:56 am

Don't be lazy. Turn the wheel to one side, and check the outer boot for rips and tears. Than turn the other way and check the other side. Use your fingers to look for rips if you can't see clearly. If the boot is torn dirt is already in. If you just started hearing the noise you may be able to save it but in most cases it's too late.

In best case scenario, you will need to take the CV joint apart, clean it, but a new boot on, fill it with grease and slap it back on the car. Worst case scenario, Joint is already too worn and you will be better off taking it in to autozone or something, and getting a new axle assembly. They have the refurbished ones where you bring your old messed up one as a core and get the "new" one with lifetime warranty.

Dissasembling and reassembling CV joints isn't easy. Swapping complete axle assemblies is a piece of cake.

I'll write up a short how to for a 2k2 R/T (5 spd but shouldn't be much different for the automatics):

Gain access to the center bolt of the wheel by removing the dowel pin and removing the dust cap. Have a friend sit in the car start the car and set foot on the brake.
I think the bolt is 1 3/4" or 1 1/2" something like that. Use a 1/2" drive breaker bar (lifetime warranty no questions asked Craftsman in case you break it), and slide a pipe over it, longer the better.
Unscrew, just get the nut going you don't have to remove it all the way. Start up the wheel bolts as well at this time. THIS IS ALL BEFORE YOU JACK THE CAR UP.

If your car is lowered it's nearly impossible to drain the tranny with the car on the ground, however car does need to be level, so if you jack the front up, you should jack the back up and secure it on the jakstands.
Take the wheel off, remove the drain plug on the transmission, and drain all the fluid, and screw the drain plug back in and tighten. Remove the end nut.
Remove the 2 bolts holding the strut bottom to allow some slack.
Now you can dissasemble the caliper by removing the 10mm bolts, and you can remove the disc but it's not necessary. WIth little pursuation you will be able to get the axle end to slide out of the hub. DO NOT hammer it out. You can use a rubber hammer to slightly tap it to get it going. Once it's out, get under the car with a crowbar and pry the axle out.
Take your new axle and make sure that there is a C clip in the groove on the tranny end of the axle. You can use some of the old tranny fluid to oil the splines but don't have to, I do. slide the axle in and push until it snaps in place. DO NOT PUSH OR PULL ON THE END OF THE AXLE AND JOINTS. It should snap in place quite easily.

Locate the filling point for the tranny fluid on the side of the tranny. Fill the amount specified in your FSM (for Magnum engines, use Mopar NV T350 Manual Transaxle Specific Lubricant), check for leaks.

Just reverse the procedure. Tighten the end nut as much as you can before lowering the car. Once the car is on the ground, tighten the end nut to specs, install the dust cap and dowel pin.

MAKE SURE YOU REFILLED THE TRANNY WITH THE FLUID!

Take the car for the test drive.

DjTransifi · Post by **DjTransifi** » Tue Jan 11, 2005 11:30 am

Keep an ear out for it.. But do check for cracks...

DannyBoy · Post by **DannyBoy** » Tue Jan 11, 2005 1:11 pm

Check for rips in the boot, and look for excessive grease on the boots and the shaft. Usually when you have a bad cv joint, it makes a clunking noise while turning.

dawm · Post by **dawm** » Tue Jan 11, 2005 2:44 pm

did you run over a rabbit and snag its ear on a bolt? i think rabbits carry ticks.

DjTransifi · Post by **DjTransifi** » Tue Jan 11, 2005 4:38 pm

WTF...?

TNK · Post by **TNK** » Tue Jan 11, 2005 5:20 pm

ROFL! nice one dawm. it might have been some ice or something, cuz it snowed here adn i keep getting ice adn slush n shit all over my car. i'll check it this weekend and see what happens.