how to find a Vacuum Leak
how to find a Vacuum Leak
just like the topic says how would i find one of these and does it cost a lot of money to fix
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Polish_neon2
- 2GN Member
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- Joined: Thu Dec 16, 2004 5:25 pm
- Location: calgary
Dealerships use a pressurized smoke device, no idea on price. I've heard about using an unlit propane torch, "painting" the vacuum lines and listening for an increase in engine rpm. You can also use a vacuum pump, like I do. Isolate the line and pump it down, if it stays at a vacuum level, it's good. My pump was about $20 at Harbor Freight IIRC. If it has anything to do with the fuel system, replace your gascap before you go nuts on troubleshooting.

'02 Dodge ES, Stone White, MTX, '01 Magnum swap, ACR sways, Tokiko blues, Mopar
2GN lowering springs, Comp 200 cam, PT Cruiser clutch, bolt-ons.
'02 Plymouth ES, Stone White, ATX, free project.
'00 Chrysler LE. ATX (Fiancee's) stock. '02 engine from above car. Mopar springs, Tokiko Blues.
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2k2patriotblueneon
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Yes, or double check that you tightened the gas cap....my moms 01 dakota threw the same code and she just didnt click the cap enough times.
2002 Dodge Neon SE
Mopar Stage 3 Coilovers w/Energy Suspension Polyurethane Bushings
SRT Swap in progress
SRT is powered by an AGP 50 trim stage 4 ball bearing turbo kit
When finished will run no less then 400 HP.

Mopar Stage 3 Coilovers w/Energy Suspension Polyurethane Bushings
SRT Swap in progress
SRT is powered by an AGP 50 trim stage 4 ball bearing turbo kit
When finished will run no less then 400 HP.

Boost leak test. Should work for you but you got no boost
. You can pick everything up from homedepot. Basicly you just toss a coupler with a stem on the end of it to the TB or intake. Whatever a coupler could fit upto on the intake side and pump air presure into it. If you have a intake leak you should hear it hiss out. If you here nothin than make sure your not pumps a lot of presure in there. You might blow a couple lines of if you do.
PARTS:
Off the top of my head.
-couple to size of inlet area (TB works)
-hose clam for rubber coupler
-cap for the coupler (can consist of plastic or PCV piping)
-valve stem (you know the stems in tires)
-Some kind of sealant to go around the stem so it doesn't leak.
If you need more info feel free to PM me and ill actually look up the info for you instead of going off the top of my head.
PARTS:
Off the top of my head.
-couple to size of inlet area (TB works)
-hose clam for rubber coupler
-cap for the coupler (can consist of plastic or PCV piping)
-valve stem (you know the stems in tires)
-Some kind of sealant to go around the stem so it doesn't leak.
If you need more info feel free to PM me and ill actually look up the info for you instead of going off the top of my head.
Hey guys
Go to the auto parts store and buy a mechanic's stethoscope with the sounding rod on it. Cost is maybe 10 bucks. Mine is over 25yrs old.
Pull the sounding rod and diaphram from the earpiece tube and use the open end of the tube. With the engine idling, move the open end of the tube SLOWLY along the intake manifold, vacuum hoses, etc. and listen for the telltale whistle of an air leak.
This works well on vacuum leaks, but you need a method of pressurising the system to simulate boost leaks.
Jonathan (RopeRat1)
Go to the auto parts store and buy a mechanic's stethoscope with the sounding rod on it. Cost is maybe 10 bucks. Mine is over 25yrs old.
Pull the sounding rod and diaphram from the earpiece tube and use the open end of the tube. With the engine idling, move the open end of the tube SLOWLY along the intake manifold, vacuum hoses, etc. and listen for the telltale whistle of an air leak.
This works well on vacuum leaks, but you need a method of pressurising the system to simulate boost leaks.
Jonathan (RopeRat1)