My system shut down! :O is it fried?

rmc03 · Post by **rmc03** » Fri Dec 01, 2006 7:02 pm

I run 2 12's in a dual bandpass box from a bridged 1400 watt visonik 4 channel amp which is also fed by a 1.2 farad cap. no fuses went. all grounds are good. on my gain controller under my dash, the LED just dimly blinks when the amp is on. the amp is in protect mode. does the exact same thing with it hooked up without the capacitor (it would at least turn on in normal mode off the battery, won't power the subs w/out the cap --> just to see if i could get it to turn on in normal power mode.)

any suggestions guys? i'm in a tuff spot. i think my amp is junk

- ryan

boostinss · Post by **boostinss** » Sat Dec 02, 2006 1:36 am

my amp did the same thing, it was because i had a loose ground..double check your grounds

rmc03 · Post by **rmc03** » Sat Dec 02, 2006 1:42 am

grounds were definitely good for the amp and capacitor, checked all connections. i pulled everything out a couple days ago b/c i figured i'd rather not have it weighing me down if its not gonna pound out some bass

i'm also have problems with my headlights and interior lights flickering when i start the car up, use turn signals, under quick throttle response.. alternator?

atom · Post by **atom** » Sun Dec 03, 2006 8:25 pm

alternator or battery or possibly crappy chassis grounding.

Get a volt meter from a car store or radio shack.
Measure voltage from the battery, then measure voltage from your cables in your trunk, their shouldnt be a huge difference, if so then you have shitty grounding. If thats fine start up the car and check the voltage on the battery again, the voltage should go up at the very least 2 or 3 volts. If it does not your alternator is going.

If not, Visonik is not a very good brand of amp so it may be that. There is also no reason youre amp shouldnt be able to power speakers with a capacitor, thats not what the capacitor is for.

duholt · Post by **duholt** » Mon Dec 04, 2006 6:15 am

amps often go into protection mode when the ohm load is lower than it can handle... it's protecting itself from becoming a very large paper weight

rmc03 · Post by **rmc03** » Mon Dec 04, 2006 2:29 pm

hahaha

have to have it bridged to run the two subs, the one RCA input stopped working about 5 months ago. the amp's getting old.

i've decided i'm going to sell my dual bandpass box with the subs, go with 2 12" JL W1's, a new cap, and a new kenwood amp. i still need to save some money up but hopefully in a month or so i'll have my bass back. thanks for the input guys, i appreciate it. - Ryan

gilly02le · Post by **gilly02le** » Tue Dec 05, 2006 12:09 am

Check the load from the subs... should measure out 4 ohms each, no more then .3+/-. This is assuming you have four ohm subs.

TheNumberOneD · Post by **TheNumberOneD** » Wed Dec 06, 2006 9:48 pm

check with TeamNiteHawk, he's an audio expert, and he has good equipment he can sell you also.

i don't trust my audio to anyone but Matt.

everyone knows this guy, he's currently a vendor for random lighting stuff.

His website is www.srt-4store.com and his aim is teamnitehawk

tell him, i told you about him, or find his e-mail on there, or just pm him!

i think his names nitehawk on this forum!

If you havn't messed with it all, and all the sudden it started to do this, then i'm guessing it's either the Altenator or battery, and the cap won't make a diffrence at all when it comes to powering our you subs...

rmc03 · Post by **rmc03** » Sat Dec 09, 2006 2:29 am

tried hooking the amp up in a friend's car, nothing.. amp's junk