Rebuilt for next 150K.. and the Stroker is running !

MXer · Post by **MXer** » Tue Jan 29, 2008 6:29 am

Good Point... I didn't think about loosing the cruize control. I figued I'd loose the traction control, but never gave cruize control a thought. Looks like I'll have to start looking as the SAFC and think about something to pull timing on the AFX modified PCM. With it's advanced timing I'm concerend about detonation with the higher Compression ratio.
Thanks for the insight!

SGT BRAD · Post by **SGT BRAD** » Tue Jan 29, 2008 10:39 am

the reason that i went with an afx/r pcm in the first place was b/c 1. i wanted plug and play 2. i wanted to keep my creature comforts as the car was originally to be a dd. btw i agree with your assessment of the ksports. they have added a ton of road noise to the cabin and while handling great, they've made the ride rock hard even at the second from softest setting. having driven on them now for 100 or so miles i'm glad that the car isn't a dd as it would be brutal. i think the ideal set-up is a set of tokico adjustables with linear eibach springs. it'll limit the size of tire that'll fit, but the trade off b/w ride and handling would probably be close to ideal. btw you do know that the stock acr with the dynamic struts pulled something like .92 on the skidpad. if those darn things weren't a bizillion $ that would be the best route.

MXer · Post by **MXer** » Mon Jul 07, 2008 10:05 am

A few pics of the rebuild: Would be nice to be in the 160 - 170 HP area when done.
Here is the blown motor:

And Here is a shot of the New Stroker motor on the stand ready to be installed:

Post by **occasional demons** » Mon Jul 07, 2008 12:11 pm

Damn! That's one sweet lookin' . .. . Hole!

And the Stroker looks damn nice, too!

Wenuden · Post by **Wenuden** » Mon Jul 07, 2008 5:59 pm

holy crap, 6 month rebuild?!?!

MXer · Post by **MXer** » Tue Jul 08, 2008 8:56 am

It's actually been more than 6 months... For those who can appreciate haveing 2 very active kids in 5 sports, they can relate to how high on the priority list this project has been for me. I actually began doing research in Feb of 07 for the Stroker. What really eats up the time in the evening is my son's wrestling and football. He finished 2nd at Nationals this year and is not old enough to drive, so dad has to take him to every pratice - wrestling camp and tournment. But... It will be in and running very soon... hopefully by next week now that he is done with All-Star baseball.

asanti · Post by **asanti** » Thu Jul 10, 2008 10:39 am

Congrats on almost being completed

! How long did it take you to get the bottom end from Howell?

Later
Allex

MXer · Post by **MXer** » Sat Jul 12, 2008 9:54 am

It was about 5 - 6 months to get the bottom end from Howel.

I never did find a used Quaife, so I rolled the dice and went with an OBX LSD. As much as I didn't want to, it was either an OBX LSD or nothing at all. I took the OBX apart to replace the washers like everyone had said - none were found broken or cracked, but I replaced them anyway. I also set the one gear in a lathe and machined a chamfer to allow me to use the axle retaining clips on both axles. It's actually a very easy fix and there really is nothing to disassembling the unit. There is a Sticky on the neons board that talks about these issues. What I did find though is that they cross threaded one of the 8mm bolts that hold the unit together. I had to repair that. I'll have to take some shots of it and post it here.

Swordfish2Cowboy · Post by **Swordfish2Cowboy** » Sun Jul 13, 2008 1:39 am

Please do. I'd rather get most of my information here, and to see what you did to fix your LSD problem. I need to put one on my car as well.

MXer · Post by **MXer** » Thu Jul 17, 2008 4:17 pm

Ok, I modified the OBX gear. Here is a pic before adding the chamfer. With this square edge, the axle clip can't release and allow the axle to come back out.

And then here is a pic after I put the gear in a lathe and put a slight chamfer on the teeth. Try to match the chamfer to the same angle as the other gear. Enough of a chamfer to allow the clip to compress, but not compress easily. I tried to hold the gear at an angle so the chamfer can be seen, but it is not as obvious in a photo as it is when your holding it in your hand.

There is a thread http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?t=267937 on the other board stickied on the OBX. I also replaced the belview washers as was stated in the sticky. There is a huge difference in quality between the OBX belview washers and aftermarket.

MXer · Post by **MXer** » Tue Jul 22, 2008 6:03 pm

Making more progress: Here is some shots of the Motor Mounts I filled myself with 3M Window Weld:

I put the OBX LTH on to show everyone what it looks like mounted ont he block:

And here is the motor ready to be slid under to be installed - complete with AMM's Head, Howells Shortblock, New 05 Manual 3.55 tranny with OBX LSD installed. Feels good to finally get to this point!!!

MXer · Post by **MXer** » Wed Jul 23, 2008 8:01 am

Getting closer !!! Whoo Hooo !!!
Here is a shot where I initially installed the motor:

And here is a shot with AMM's long runner Intake installed:

I will say this.... With the filled motor mounts, the motor is mounted SOLID!! It's not possible to get the motor to rock by hand at all. I just hope the filled mounts are not too solid.

asanti · Post by **asanti** » Wed Jul 23, 2008 11:55 am

Awesome, now all we need are some vids of that motor running

. Oh, and long smoky burnouts lmao!
Later
Allex

DoubtedNeon · Post by **DoubtedNeon** » Wed Jul 23, 2008 12:12 pm

if you dont mind me asking, what was the rundown of your build? I.E. cost, hours, ect ect

MXer · Post by **MXer** » Wed Jul 23, 2008 4:51 pm

You prompted me to figure out what I've spent so far over the course of about a year and 5 months on this "Rebuild" I can't believe it... I'm just shy of $6000

$1200 of that I'm hoping to get back due to the guys being caught that stole my transmission. As far a time... It's hard to say for sure. I'd say I have 80 hours of time invested so far.

MXer · Post by **MXer** » Fri Aug 01, 2008 11:31 am

Humm, Even with the modified gear in the OBX - It still didn't feel like the axle locked in place once installed in the car. I could pull the axle back out easier than I thought I should be able to. I am wondering if I should trim a little off the end of the axle spline where it goes into the transmission or pull the tranny back apart and add some more clearance to the modified gear. If anyone knows sombody who has run across this, please point me in their direction so I can ask them about possible solutions.
I also made the call to wrap the OBX LTH - Couldn't use the old heat shield that protected the wiring harnesses, so I thougth this may be the next best option.

MXer · Post by **MXer** » Sun Aug 03, 2008 12:25 am

Another bump in the road today - I thought I'd have it running today and who would have guessed... One of the injectors I purchased from Modern Performance was incorrect. The box had the right part number on it, but it was not even close to looking like the other three... They took car of me though and will have another injector in the mail monday.

MXer · Post by **MXer** » Sun Aug 10, 2008 12:13 am

I'm STROKED AND STOAKED !
I turned the key and the new stroker motor fired right up - Whoo Hooo!!

She had a slight lope for about 10 seconds and then purred like a kitten.

I cranked it with the ignition unhooked and spark plugs out for around 45 seconds three times just to let everything seat in and let oil start pumping thru the engine. Then I hooked the ignition up and installed the plugs and it fired almost as soon as I turned the key. I left it Idle for about 30 seconds - and shut it down. Waited about 5 minutes and then fired it back up and left it idle about 2 minutes and shut it back down. Waited about 15 minutes and then fired it up and left it idle till the temp gage started climbing and shut it back down. Then I put the tires on, installed the hood and took care of a couple other small odds and ends. (took about 1 hour) This time I fired it up and left it run at 3000 rpm for about 10 minutes or so. She sounds SoooWeet! No noise from the Comp 400 cam like I saw some other posts talk about. The wrapped header not only eliminates 90% of the heat in the engine compartment, but actually made the OBX LTH quieter than the Borla short header I had on before it. I didn't get to drive it yet - I have to get it back on our insurance policy and renew the tags on it which should all happen Monday. Then I can actually take it for a spin and see how everything is working.
Man..... You just can't believe how good it feels to see all the pieces come together. I want to take it to a dyno to see how A/F ratios are throughout the rpm range... of course it will be interesting to see how the HP and Torque curves look, but I'm more concerned with my A/F ratio. Anyone know of a good place to take it near State College Pa for a dyno session.

Post by **racer12306** » Sun Aug 10, 2008 12:33 am

Becareful with that header wrap. It may get a little nasty when it gets wet.

INVUJerry · Post by **INVUJerry** » Sun Aug 10, 2008 1:47 am

AWESOME!

Jerome Adams · Post by **Jerome Adams** » Sun Aug 10, 2008 12:05 pm

nice, can't wait to see the dyno. Yeah, expect some smoke from that header wrap for the first few days...

DoubtedNeon · Post by **DoubtedNeon** » Thu Aug 14, 2008 12:14 pm

congrats on the rebuild! i was checking in every once and awhile, and she looks really well done! cant wait for the dyno! what do you expect the hp/trq to be?

MXer · Post by **MXer** » Thu Aug 14, 2008 3:07 pm

The header wrap smokes like H@#$!! and stinks to high heaven. Took it for a very short spin - 1/4mi down the road and it is really responsive. I didn't get on it hard, but I did step on it a bit and WHOA! No spin - all grin!! It pulled me back in the seat for sure. Should have all the paperwork to get tags back on it and head for the inspection station. As far as the HP question - I'm thinking in the 160 - 170 WHP area and a big jump in torque across the rpm range. I still haven't found a good place to get it dyno'ed. I really want to dyno it to see were the A/F ratio is.

Jerome Adams · Post by **Jerome Adams** » Thu Aug 14, 2008 6:24 pm

can't wait to see numbers! yeah, I hate the header wrap smoke cause when I can't tell if anything is wrong.

MXer · Post by **MXer** » Thu Aug 14, 2008 7:40 pm

Getting the following codes after driving about 10 miles:
P0140 (M) 1/2 O2 Sensor Stays At Center Neither rich or lean condition is detected from the oxygen sensor.
and
P1282 Fuel Pump Relay Control Circuit An open or shorted condition detected in the fuel pump
relay control circuit.

Fuel pump pressure seems Ok - Not sure what is going on with the O2 sensor. I guess I'll have to do some digging.

danman132x · Post by **danman132x** » Fri Aug 15, 2008 1:03 am

Hope you find the cause. I'm looking forward to some videos. I would try to put the 02 sensor in the collector instead of just a runner if its not.

MXer · Post by **MXer** » Fri Aug 15, 2008 7:19 am

The codes went away this moring when I started it up this morning. I thought I'd drive it to work and on the way in this morning, they came back. The car also seems to be running pig rich. I'm going to move the O2 sensor and possibly pick a new one up just to be safe. I wonder if the new fuel pump is a little different from the stock one causing the fuel pump code.

Post by **occasional demons** » Fri Aug 15, 2008 8:28 am

The P1282 code would have more to do with the FP relay, or the wiring to it, than the fuel pump it's self. The relay is obviously switching on (and hopefully off) or the pump would not run. Try switching it with the horn relay and see if the code clears. The coil windings may be getting weak or something weird causing the PCM to think there is a short or open in the circuit.

MXer · Post by **MXer** » Tue Sep 09, 2008 8:52 am

Thought I'd give an update:
I am fighting a miss and backfireing issue. I've checked wiring, checked plugs, ran as high as 96 octane fuel, ran with and without the knock sensor hooked up and I still get the miss/backfiring issue. I'll try to describe it here:
The problem seems to be more common the hotter/humid it is outside. When it begins, it is usually the result of the load increasing on the engine - like starting up a hill and does not seem to be RPM dependant. I can actually feel the car surge and then sputter and it is very noticable.
I don't think it is detonation, I've had the plugs out several times and see no indication of detonation on them. The color is a light brownish tan on the insulator - which to me would indicate a good burn.
I am wondering if cam timing could be an issue. I have the adjustable cam set to "0" and it is running a comp 400 cam. I have a wideband o2 sensor that should be here this week so I can monitor and record my o2 reading and hopefully pull some additonal data in like the mapp sensor, TP sensor and knock sensor. If anyone has any ideas.. please share them.

On the plus side - MPG's have been improving, 24 on the first tank, 28 on the second tank, 30 on the third tank, 31 on the fourth tank and 30 on the fifth tank.

Post by **occasional demons** » Tue Sep 09, 2008 11:21 am

Well I don't see one in your sig, so I'll throw it out there, .... Maybe your coil has hiar line cracks letting the spark going to the wrong wires. I have seen the same symtoms on the single output coils, with just misfiring of course. I wouldn't think crank sensor, they usually work or don't. Cam timing should make it consistently run bad.