lower control arm bolt seems tough to get out....any help???
lower control arm bolt seems tough to get out....any help???
hey guys, i am just wondering how hard should the 24mm bolt that goes through the back part of the lower control arm.....so far we have had to use a ratchet with a pipe on it...and after fighting to get the bolt out about an inch its still tough to turn......this normal???......
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00element10
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- Diablo0
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It's normal if it's the first time coming off. The factor used Thread Locker on it so thats the reason why it's so hard. The bolt is also long as hell so you'll be turning for awhile lol. Once it's loosened though if you can get an impact gun down there it'll save you a lot of time turning a wrench.
-Jason
Black '02 Neon R/T | White '02 Neon R/T - SRT-4 Engine Swap

^^^ no, that isn't what I look like haha
Try not to become a man of success but rather to become a man of value. - Albert Einstein
Black '02 Neon R/T | White '02 Neon R/T - SRT-4 Engine Swap

^^^ no, that isn't what I look like haha
Try not to become a man of success but rather to become a man of value. - Albert Einstein
Whose socket did you break. Not seen many that big break????
But yeah get a BF impact gun and zip zip zip. No problems.
Mine gun is a Matco labled Ingersol Rand Ti model. That full blast on a craftsman 24mm socket and no movement and it has done that many times????
But yeah get a BF impact gun and zip zip zip. No problems.
Mine gun is a Matco labled Ingersol Rand Ti model. That full blast on a craftsman 24mm socket and no movement and it has done that many times????
2004 Neon SE -- Mods -- K&N CAI, R/T Muffler, Booger Bushings, Prothane Suspension & Race MM Inserts, Vitor's TM Inserts
- Diablo0
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Especially impact sockets lol
I've snapped a few Craftsman sockets and bent a few breaker bars under my own power but never broken an impact socket yet with an impact gun lol
I've snapped a few Craftsman sockets and bent a few breaker bars under my own power but never broken an impact socket yet with an impact gun lol
-Jason
Black '02 Neon R/T | White '02 Neon R/T - SRT-4 Engine Swap

^^^ no, that isn't what I look like haha
Try not to become a man of success but rather to become a man of value. - Albert Einstein
Black '02 Neon R/T | White '02 Neon R/T - SRT-4 Engine Swap

^^^ no, that isn't what I look like haha
Try not to become a man of success but rather to become a man of value. - Albert Einstein
ah..they are out and done and back in and the car is in the driveway now..minus the rear sway bar.....dont break those bolts....pain in the butt to do anything about them....its a bracket up there welded in the subframe...this has given us nothing but problems...and lets just say i need to see a guy about a welder to fix the new hole in my floor..haha..... took the car for a quick spin and it feels sooo much better even without the swaybar in....tommorow it gets an alignment and hopefully it gets the bar back really soon
2001 neon LE (sport appearance package) - 212,000kms - steel blue - my car
2001 Neon LE - Base 95,000kms - salsa red - moms car
2005 Dodge SX2.0 sport - 97,000kms - inferno red - fiances car
2001 Neon LE - Base 95,000kms - salsa red - moms car
2005 Dodge SX2.0 sport - 97,000kms - inferno red - fiances car
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sullygully
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You guys are missing the obvious: Heat.
Take a propane torch and heat up the bolt for a minute. Then give it a try. That last thing you want to do is put the impact wrench on it and break the bolt in two, with the one half still threaded in there.
Although, if this does happen, talk to me, cuz theres a trick to getting it out without the use of an extractor tool.
Take a propane torch and heat up the bolt for a minute. Then give it a try. That last thing you want to do is put the impact wrench on it and break the bolt in two, with the one half still threaded in there.
Although, if this does happen, talk to me, cuz theres a trick to getting it out without the use of an extractor tool.
- fixitmattman
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I would have loved to get some heat on there when I did mine instead of snapping it off in the frame. Here's the kicker, there's no where to get any heat on the nut because of how it's recessed in the frame channel and heating the head won't to fuck all. The penetrating fluid approach is spray a crap load in a small hole and hope you get some on the nut.
http://www.cardomain.com/profile/fixitmattman
How to fix your car:
1. Buy a Haynes manual
2. Read Haynes maual
3. Read and search appropriate threads, trust us, it's been covered before
4. Fix car
5. Consume beer of job well done
How to fix your car:
1. Buy a Haynes manual
2. Read Haynes maual
3. Read and search appropriate threads, trust us, it's been covered before
4. Fix car
5. Consume beer of job well done
well....the first trailing arm/tension strut gave me probs so when i did the other one i soaked the crap out of the bolts and went super super slow and backed them out some...put them back in some...and just slowly worked them down......and it worked on that side.
like they all said up above...getting heat on a lot of these bolts is hard to do cause all you can see is the head..you cant even see the nuts so all you can do is shoot some stuff up in those holes and hope.
using the vice to get bushings was fun...shot one bushing up in the air....it hit the roof..haha...
oh well....its all done....the hole in my floor is all nicely welded up and painted over and everything is done, had it aligned cause i had done the bushings and all the struts and now its on the road again....feels more solid...used to have a clunk in the front which is now gone. the roads up here are crap because of how cold its gotten and our city is cheap on repairing them and they go salt happy, so I have been hitting a lot of bumps. you do feel the small bumps a little bit more but the car feels way more solid then it did, so i am happy that at least the bushings are working.......oh well......next project.....i think will possibly be the water pump....knock on wood that shouldnt be too bad, cause i already did the timing belt and camshaft swap so i know how to get the big metal plate out of the way.
like they all said up above...getting heat on a lot of these bolts is hard to do cause all you can see is the head..you cant even see the nuts so all you can do is shoot some stuff up in those holes and hope.
using the vice to get bushings was fun...shot one bushing up in the air....it hit the roof..haha...
oh well....its all done....the hole in my floor is all nicely welded up and painted over and everything is done, had it aligned cause i had done the bushings and all the struts and now its on the road again....feels more solid...used to have a clunk in the front which is now gone. the roads up here are crap because of how cold its gotten and our city is cheap on repairing them and they go salt happy, so I have been hitting a lot of bumps. you do feel the small bumps a little bit more but the car feels way more solid then it did, so i am happy that at least the bushings are working.......oh well......next project.....i think will possibly be the water pump....knock on wood that shouldnt be too bad, cause i already did the timing belt and camshaft swap so i know how to get the big metal plate out of the way.
2001 neon LE (sport appearance package) - 212,000kms - steel blue - my car
2001 Neon LE - Base 95,000kms - salsa red - moms car
2005 Dodge SX2.0 sport - 97,000kms - inferno red - fiances car
2001 Neon LE - Base 95,000kms - salsa red - moms car
2005 Dodge SX2.0 sport - 97,000kms - inferno red - fiances car

