ABS Car to Non-ABS, or... see inside
- kc2005ptgt
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ABS Car to Non-ABS, or... see inside
Ok, I couldn't find this, so I am wondering... with the recent weather we have been having here in KC, which is actually some of the worst in years, I have had to many times my ABS kicks in and screws me up while driving, and am wondering if there is a way to make my car non-abs without screwing something up...
here is the kicker though - would it be possible to make it like the trac control, with an on/off switch? Any ideas? I know nothing about ABS, let alone brakes and dont want to just get into the wiring and start hooking and unhooking crapola and re-wiring it all up.
Any help is fine. Any comments are fine. Anyone who wanst to eFight, BRING IT ON! j/k
here is the kicker though - would it be possible to make it like the trac control, with an on/off switch? Any ideas? I know nothing about ABS, let alone brakes and dont want to just get into the wiring and start hooking and unhooking crapola and re-wiring it all up.
Any help is fine. Any comments are fine. Anyone who wanst to eFight, BRING IT ON! j/k
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- Diablo0
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You could probably just unplug the ABS module thats under the brake fluid reservoir and behind the battery. It's a big black plug, you pull out on the left side of the plug to unlock it and it'll lift strait up. It works fine for people that do the swap, the only problem is you'll have an idiot light come on letting you know something is up.
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- kc2005ptgt
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so than it IS as simple as wiring then, huh? I wonder if I could buy a nice looking, stock-like switch to place next to the trac control so I can switch on/off the ABS as I feel the need too - just like I do with trac. I am not concerned about light, just concerned about damaging car, stuff in it, etc.
So, another question than, since I am not good at relays, would I need a relay to wire in a switch for this? Or can I just cut the +pos wire and run it inline to the switch?
BRR, got a part# for the trac cont switch from 01-02??? Awe, heck, I will ask in part# req thread
So, another question than, since I am not good at relays, would I need a relay to wire in a switch for this? Or can I just cut the +pos wire and run it inline to the switch?
BRR, got a part# for the trac cont switch from 01-02??? Awe, heck, I will ask in part# req thread
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- Diablo0
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I dunno if it's going to be as easy as a switch b/c the plug is pretty HUGE and has a good amount of wires going to the unit. I don't have my FSM handy so I can't lookup pinouts but it could get rather involving hooking up a switch 
-Jason
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- BlackRoseRacing
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After last nights driving in a blizzard and the ABS pissing me off, I was actually considering on doing the same thing!

Cavity number 8 (#4 arrow pointing at) has a 40amp fuse in it, probably this is the main fuse for pump control....

Cavity #'s 10 or 11 will have a 15amp fuse in it in the fuse block inside the car. This is probably the one we need to tap into with a toggle of some type to totally de-agtivate the system. I was considering on having an aircraft style toggle with a cover installed next to the traction control switch to deactivate the ABS system when needed. For the heck of it, im going outside to yank this fuse out and take a drive to the store. Since we have crappy icy weather here in wny, ill report back in a little bit...[/img]
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Do 2005 SXTs have ABS?
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easiest way to find out is to brake check em... if you lock up, no...

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- BlackRoseRacing
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ok, the interior 15amp fuse we can't mess with...
In the PDC there are 2 fuses for the ABS, one 30amp and one 40amp....
If you disconnect the 40amp, the abs/traction control light will come on and its all disabled, reconnecting the fuse (while ignition is on) does not turn the abs back on until you shut the ignition off. The 30amp fuse does pretty much the same effect except it will turn the brake light on also.
I would recomend putting a good high amperage main toggle in line with the 30amp fuse Vs the 40amp. I think the 40amp is for the abs motor it self(i did not look deep enough yet)
While rolling you can flip the switch and kill all ABS functions, but if you want it enabled, you have to stop,shut the car off, turn the car back on and let the car recognize the abs is functioning again.
Basically killing the 30amp fuse makes the car think there is an ABS problem and disables it, when you turn the car off and back on it rechecks the system and realizes everything is fine and turns it back on.
P.S.
Im not responsible for anyone disabling a safety device, nor would I EVER recomend it!!!!
OPERATION
When the ignition key is turned to the ON position, the amber ABS warning indicator lamp is lit until the Controller Anti-Lock Brake (CAB) completes its self-tests and turns off the lamp (approximately 4 seconds). The amber ABS warning indicator lamp will illuminate when the CAB detects a condition that results in the shutdown of ABS function. The CAB sends a message to the mechanical instrument cluster (MIC) instructing it to turn on the amber ABS warning indicator lamp.
Under most conditions, when the amber ABS warning indicator lamp is on, only the ABS function of the brake system is affected; The electronic brake distribution (EBD), the base brake system and the ability to stop the vehicle are not affected.
In the PDC there are 2 fuses for the ABS, one 30amp and one 40amp....
If you disconnect the 40amp, the abs/traction control light will come on and its all disabled, reconnecting the fuse (while ignition is on) does not turn the abs back on until you shut the ignition off. The 30amp fuse does pretty much the same effect except it will turn the brake light on also.
I would recomend putting a good high amperage main toggle in line with the 30amp fuse Vs the 40amp. I think the 40amp is for the abs motor it self(i did not look deep enough yet)
While rolling you can flip the switch and kill all ABS functions, but if you want it enabled, you have to stop,shut the car off, turn the car back on and let the car recognize the abs is functioning again.
Basically killing the 30amp fuse makes the car think there is an ABS problem and disables it, when you turn the car off and back on it rechecks the system and realizes everything is fine and turns it back on.
P.S.
Im not responsible for anyone disabling a safety device, nor would I EVER recomend it!!!!
OPERATION
When the ignition key is turned to the ON position, the amber ABS warning indicator lamp is lit until the Controller Anti-Lock Brake (CAB) completes its self-tests and turns off the lamp (approximately 4 seconds). The amber ABS warning indicator lamp will illuminate when the CAB detects a condition that results in the shutdown of ABS function. The CAB sends a message to the mechanical instrument cluster (MIC) instructing it to turn on the amber ABS warning indicator lamp.
Under most conditions, when the amber ABS warning indicator lamp is on, only the ABS function of the brake system is affected; The electronic brake distribution (EBD), the base brake system and the ability to stop the vehicle are not affected.
- kc2005ptgt
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hmmm.... so, a line tapped into the 30A fuse (cavity 5?) will disable just ABS, but not TRAC and BRAKES? Just curious, because all lights come on. My other question is whether or not there is some sort of 12V+ running from the ABS sensors themself, or maybe from the pigtail harness, or somewhere that would only disable the ABS, nada else... I need to get into my manual and see what it comes up with... Got any more wiring diagrams of just ABS???
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- BlackRoseRacing
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A switch tapped into cavity 5 will disable the ABS and the traction control. But to re-enable it the car must be shut off, switch turned on and car restarted. Then the abs module will redect and everything is back to stock.
Basically....
If your driving along,and want the abs disconnected, flip a master kill switch thats tapped into cavity #5 and the abs and traction control will be disabled. When your ready to use it again, shut off the car, reconnect the circuit, and restart. Then everything will be back to normal. Wich means you will need a switch that is always on to keep the abs alive, then switched off to disable the abs.
Basically....
If your driving along,and want the abs disconnected, flip a master kill switch thats tapped into cavity #5 and the abs and traction control will be disabled. When your ready to use it again, shut off the car, reconnect the circuit, and restart. Then everything will be back to normal. Wich means you will need a switch that is always on to keep the abs alive, then switched off to disable the abs.
- fixitmattman
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How about instead of modifying the ABS system you drive appropriately for the conditions
If the ABS is kicking in while you're braking in the snow you're more than likely going too fast for the conditions. If you have trac control and the ABS comes on during accel, you're getting on the gas too much and trac control is using the ABS to modulate the slipping wheel.
Disable it if you like, but this just seems really silly to me.
Disable it if you like, but this just seems really silly to me.
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- BlackRoseRacing
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Here in WNY it really depends on the condition of the road...
Sometimes abs and traction control do more harm than good, especially accelerating on ice, traction control makes it a pain in the arse to accel, when coming to a stop on ice the abs helps.
I really think if people want to try it so be it, I tried it today in crappy, snowy, icy wny weather and I seem to like my car better without the abs and traction control.
Sometimes abs and traction control do more harm than good, especially accelerating on ice, traction control makes it a pain in the arse to accel, when coming to a stop on ice the abs helps.
I really think if people want to try it so be it, I tried it today in crappy, snowy, icy wny weather and I seem to like my car better without the abs and traction control.
- kc2005ptgt
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I never hadabs before I got this car, and never had trac cont either, so I dunno how to drive it differently, whatever... but seriously, this
All I am trying to do is find a way to disable the ABS when I need too. I am hoping to keep the trac control separate, but if not, than I guess I will have to look a little deeper...
We shall see, I will research deeper. Thanks for the all the input/help BRR, I appreciate your knowhow!
sounds more like an insult than help... thanks.How about instead of modifying the ABS system you drive appropriately for the conditions
All I am trying to do is find a way to disable the ABS when I need too. I am hoping to keep the trac control separate, but if not, than I guess I will have to look a little deeper...
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- fixitmattman
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Take it however you like, but having driven both ABS and non ABS cars fairly regularily in hefty snow and ice that's the only time I've ever had it come on is when I hit a slick spot and/or going too fast for conditions.
You can't keep the trac control separate because it uses the ABS system to modulate torque output. If a wheel is slipping it applies ABS to that wheel to get power going through the other side of the open differential instead of a one wheel tire fire and going nowhere. If you disable ABS you also disable trac. Knock your socks off and disable it, but I still have a feeling the problem is driving too agressive for the slick conditions at that time.
You can't keep the trac control separate because it uses the ABS system to modulate torque output. If a wheel is slipping it applies ABS to that wheel to get power going through the other side of the open differential instead of a one wheel tire fire and going nowhere. If you disable ABS you also disable trac. Knock your socks off and disable it, but I still have a feeling the problem is driving too agressive for the slick conditions at that time.
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- kc2005ptgt
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Ok, qwell at leats you added something to the post this time instead of just bashing my driving ability 
We do not get snow down here like you would up in Canada, and we sure do not have the icy conditions like places in NY and elsewhere (although this year has been unusually bad) - My ABS kicks in even on dry pavement, like now with all the excess sand and salt on the road. My trac does as well - so I turn it off. All I was trying to do was find a way to disable it when I wanted to, not permanently.
Thanks for the driving lessons, and thanks for the info on the trac and ABS systems.
We do not get snow down here like you would up in Canada, and we sure do not have the icy conditions like places in NY and elsewhere (although this year has been unusually bad) - My ABS kicks in even on dry pavement, like now with all the excess sand and salt on the road. My trac does as well - so I turn it off. All I was trying to do was find a way to disable it when I wanted to, not permanently.
Thanks for the driving lessons, and thanks for the info on the trac and ABS systems.
THAT is what I needed to know. And since you brought it up, I already know why they kick in, and I may drive aggressive, but not all the time, and definately not in this weather we have been having lately. Judge all you want how I may or may not drive, but that was never apart of my original question, nor ever in my post. As for why they come on, thanks again, I know.You can't keep the trac control separate because it uses the ABS system to modulate torque output. If a wheel is slipping it applies ABS to that wheel to get power going through the other side of the open differential instead of a one wheel tire fire and going nowhere. If you disable ABS you also disable trac
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- fixitmattman
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Loose sand/gravel is pretty slick as well if it's built up. In the summers when I'm back home working I take back farm roads to work because they're faster. One corner always seems to have a lot of sand/gravel on it and somtimes being in a hurry and going a bit fast I lock up the one or both wheels and slide. Even up here in the parking lots it's pretty easy to break out the wheels if you're heavy on the gas due to all the sand.
Now if you're on acceptably clean and dry asphalt and not trying to set a record 60-0 times (let's say average steady braking) and the ABS is still kicking in, I'd almost be willing to say there's a problem with the system. In that case I would be more inclined to fix the system instead of disable it, but that's just me. Other wise, beating a dead horse experience between myself and others is even if you're not driving to fast, you're braking too late for the conditions or trying to get on it too fast.
I'm now going to leave this thread alone.
Now if you're on acceptably clean and dry asphalt and not trying to set a record 60-0 times (let's say average steady braking) and the ABS is still kicking in, I'd almost be willing to say there's a problem with the system. In that case I would be more inclined to fix the system instead of disable it, but that's just me. Other wise, beating a dead horse experience between myself and others is even if you're not driving to fast, you're braking too late for the conditions or trying to get on it too fast.
I'm now going to leave this thread alone.
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How to fix your car:
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4. Fix car
5. Consume beer of job well done
^^i agree...i drive in lots of crappy weather and i have yet to want to turn it off and its saved me from goin in a ditch.
It kinda sounds like there is something wrong with yours though
QUESTION: is there anyway to change the sensitivity of abs and trac. I know that it gets set up at the factory and that they both get tested(i used to do that job)....but would there be anyway of changing the sensitivity of the system?
It kinda sounds like there is something wrong with yours though
QUESTION: is there anyway to change the sensitivity of abs and trac. I know that it gets set up at the factory and that they both get tested(i used to do that job)....but would there be anyway of changing the sensitivity of the system?
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- kc2005ptgt
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^^ That would be nice... 
I think I might do this... since I already have the trac control switch, I think I am going to find a way to tap into that to control the ABS on/off also. I am going to try this sometime when it warms up.
I think I might do this... since I already have the trac control switch, I think I am going to find a way to tap into that to control the ABS on/off also. I am going to try this sometime when it warms up.
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