Scraping Brakes! (Fixed)

INVUJerry · Post by **INVUJerry** » Sat Feb 10, 2007 3:53 pm

Yep, I've needed new pads and rotors. Ever since the last snow there has been a scraping sound whenever I drive, like the pad is dragging a little bit. I've driven alot of miles on this to and from work like this, and when I get my taxes back I'm gonna do the brakes on it.

How hard is it to do pads and rotors? What tools will I need? I would like to do this by myself, but I don't want to mess anything up. Can someone give me some guidance?

FTWNeon · Post by **FTWNeon** » Sat Feb 10, 2007 4:15 pm

If you don't bleed the brakes, it's very easy to do. Pop off the wheel, then with a 10mm sockeet (I think it's 10) remove the two bolts that hold the caliper to the hub, then remove the caliper. To get the pads off, just pull them towards the center of the caliper and they pop right off. To do the rotor, once the caliper is off, just pull on the rotor and it slides right of the hub. The just reverse for installation. One thing though, while the caliper is off the hub, get some wire or zip ties or something and tie it to a spring or something, don't let it hang by the brake hose.

INVUJerry · Post by **INVUJerry** » Sat Feb 10, 2007 9:55 pm

Ah sweet, I should be able to do this by myself. Although the most mechanical thing to a car I've done myself was the radiator and the gas tank in my s-10.

Hey:
These brakes any good?

Post by **Diablo0** » Mon Feb 12, 2007 9:54 am

I personally wouldn't buy any off-brand brake rotors or pads off ebay... you never know what you're going to get and brakes are rather important for me to what to risk saving a few bucks

ragek23 · Post by **ragek23** » Mon Feb 12, 2007 10:50 am

yeah i wouldn't get those brakes the pads don't look like they fit for one, two if u want something u know will work at realy cheap prices you could always get some break pads at autozone. I know advanceauto sells some nice cerimic pads that won't leave u with the nasty break dust.

try those places and good luck.

^o and after u remove the bolts in the capiper u may need a c-clap to compress the piston in the caliper to get it off.

Karizmatik · Post by **Karizmatik** » Tue Feb 13, 2007 9:29 am

ragek23 wrote:^o and after u remove the bolts in the capiper u may need a c-clap to compress the piston in the caliper to get it off.

That's what i was gonna suggest, just get it before you start and save yourself the headache. I have read and was told you can sometimes just push it in but i had no such luck.

After-thought.. It's real easy to do btw, it was my 1st really involed project, i used a guide from either this site or the "other one". Once you do that 1st side and see how everything goes you'll fly through the 2nd one no prob.

Post by **racer12306** » Tue Feb 13, 2007 9:52 am

it is really easy to do.

just as Dave said, but you do want the c-clamp. you gotta be he-man to push those pistons back in with out one. on thing though last time i checked my brakes the caliper was a PITA to get off for some reason and i had to beat the caliper off with a hammer.

depending on when you get the stuff to do the job i may be able to help you if you want. my spring break is march 19th through the 23rd and i should have to worry about school the weekend before that or the weekend after that and anytime in between.

yellowpatrol · Post by **yellowpatrol** » Tue Feb 13, 2007 10:22 am

So do you have to just change out the rotor? I thought you could rotate it or something.

What about Drum brakes? Aren't they supposed to be even easier?

Oh and what would the benefit of bleeding the brakes be?

Post by **racer12306** » Tue Feb 13, 2007 10:27 am

for the most part you do not have to bleed brakes when you do a simple pad change.

drum brakes are harder imo. but they do last A LOT longer than from pads.

you can get the rotor turned. this will generally take a day or two to do. most people here just replace them. my dad has a set of rotors from my sisters neon that im going to get turned and then put them on when i change my brakes.

2002TuRboNeoN · Post by **2002TuRboNeoN** » Tue Feb 13, 2007 2:17 pm

id go with hawk brake pads but thats just me if you go with some cheap brand your gonan be doing ur brakes next winter again lol dont buy cheap they last alot longer.

Post by **racer12306** » Tue Feb 13, 2007 2:47 pm

regular auto parts stores brakes are fine and last a while.

ragek23 · Post by **ragek23** » Tue Feb 13, 2007 4:57 pm

i actually did a full track day and some autocross events on autozone duralast brakes and surprisingly they held up just fine and they still have tons of life left.

INVUJerry · Post by **INVUJerry** » Tue Feb 13, 2007 5:21 pm

I'm probably gonna go Autozone brakes. I need brakes like now.

hansken_yo · Post by **hansken_yo** » Wed Feb 14, 2007 1:13 am

You should get the Russel Steel lines if you got the doe for it... they are $130ish at Summit, but I hear they really help with braking

INVUJerry · Post by **INVUJerry** » Sat Feb 17, 2007 5:05 pm

Wow, those are really easy to do. Took me and my buddy (him mostly) about 30 minutes to do it. Half of that was me beating on my side with a mallet to get the caliper off. Ceramic pads FTW!

BTW: If you guys go to autozone to get your brakes, if you have an 05, say you have an 03 so that they can find your parts! WHen I said 05 they only had their drilled/slotted rotors that were 229 a set! After I said 03, I got my pads and rotors for $108.