rear sway bar
- stang892k5
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rear sway bar
well i just got my new rear sway bar from progress. but i never had a rear sway bar to begin with.... so i was wondering since the kit does not come with the bolts/screws the hold the U bracket into place im curious to know what size they are so that way a can install it . also it said to take off the wheels can it be done with the wheels on???? f**kin FIRESTONE lost my wheel lock


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gilly02le
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the rear swaybar mounts to brakets on the back of the struts, when you buy replacement struts they have the brackets on them. the sways dont connect directly to the strut, they will most likely have endlinks. And i dont see why you would need to take your tires off. Probably just be a lot easier.. get firestone to buy you a new one since they lost it...
New Sig Time.
- hansken_yo
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the u-brakets are the part numbers for the SRT 4 from the stealership
4656478ab: Clamp=Stab ($8.05 each ) you'll need 2
6506203aa: screws for the clamp (4.03 each) you'll need 4
then you should have then endlinks, and if you don't have the struts with the tab you'll need that as well
4656478ab: Clamp=Stab ($8.05 each ) you'll need 2
6506203aa: screws for the clamp (4.03 each) you'll need 4
then you should have then endlinks, and if you don't have the struts with the tab you'll need that as well

| - John || Project Log || Official I'm Going To Drive My Neon Till It Dies Club #000001 |
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gilly02le
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i blew a driver side rear strut and had to replace it with a munroe sensa-trak strut.. It looks like they include the sway bracket on the back of the strut, on all aftermarket neon struts, since its probably cheaper to just make it with the bracket and not use it, if your neon doesn't have a stock rear.. like mine. If Your Car Doesn't Have brackets on the backs of both struts, that face the rear of the car, then you will need to replace your struts with ones that do have the braket.( the rears anyways)
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Knoxville_R/T
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it looks like he is talking about the 2 u-brackets that go on the middle part of the swway bar that holds it to the bottom of the car...
But he should also look for the tabs on the struts. If he does not have them, then vitor from the .org has tabs that would work. http://www.neongoodies.com/ i believe.
But he should also look for the tabs on the struts. If he does not have them, then vitor from the .org has tabs that would work. http://www.neongoodies.com/ i believe.
-Brian
Rest In Peace Brian
February 20, 1985 - August 21, 2012
2004 Black "KNEE YAWN" SRT-4
3" Maxxfab SEE, S2 WGA, Mopar BOV Plate, Fighters CAI, Samco IC Hoses, QW's DF IC, Hotchkis Sways
Soon to come:
Werks rear Strut Bar
2001 Red Neon R/T**Gone**
Rest In Peace Brian
February 20, 1985 - August 21, 2012
2004 Black "KNEE YAWN" SRT-4
3" Maxxfab SEE, S2 WGA, Mopar BOV Plate, Fighters CAI, Samco IC Hoses, QW's DF IC, Hotchkis Sways
Soon to come:
Werks rear Strut Bar
2001 Red Neon R/T**Gone**
- stang892k5
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yeah i was talking about the 2 brackets that go on the middle of the sway bar. thanks for the info guys. im also curious to know how big of an improvement i should expect since i never had a sway bar??? im also changing my rear tension strut kit with the mopar kit from modern performance. thanks much


- hansken_yo
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I don't quite know how to explain it other than tight and responsive. "on rails" so to speak

| - John || Project Log || Official I'm Going To Drive My Neon Till It Dies Club #000001 |
Everyone knows that for breasts to be "perfect" they need to be within reach.
I have that bar with a stock 20mm front and LOVE IT!!!!!! Much 
The bolts are 8mm by about 40 mm Grade 8.8 (about grade 5 in standard, 10.9 is more like grade 8 standard bolts, funny metirc and standard thing). One is actually in the EVAP canister mount already so you only need three plus the u-brackets for the sway bar bushings.
"Rails" starts when you go full poly bushings and add the rear strut tower brace and tweak the alignment. Wider rubber always helps too.
As far as wheels on it will be tight but you should be able to manage, make HOTROCK get you a new one!!! Hopefully you have the ID number to do so. If you do just wait till you get the lock so it is much easier for just room to work.
Oh, torque specs are 300 in-lbs for sway bar bushing bolts and 200 in-lbs for endlink nuts while at ride height.
The bolts are 8mm by about 40 mm Grade 8.8 (about grade 5 in standard, 10.9 is more like grade 8 standard bolts, funny metirc and standard thing). One is actually in the EVAP canister mount already so you only need three plus the u-brackets for the sway bar bushings.
"Rails" starts when you go full poly bushings and add the rear strut tower brace and tweak the alignment. Wider rubber always helps too.
As far as wheels on it will be tight but you should be able to manage, make HOTROCK get you a new one!!! Hopefully you have the ID number to do so. If you do just wait till you get the lock so it is much easier for just room to work.
Oh, torque specs are 300 in-lbs for sway bar bushing bolts and 200 in-lbs for endlink nuts while at ride height.
2004 Neon SE -- Mods -- K&N CAI, R/T Muffler, Booger Bushings, Prothane Suspension & Race MM Inserts, Vitor's TM Inserts
- stang892k5
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well im also replaces all bushings to go along with the sway bar and rear tension kit. i do have a rear strut tower brace, it the DC sports bar . lucky me i bought from modern performance when it was only $80 . now that same bar it about $50 more. cant wait to see how it rides im going to put it on either friday or saturday


- hansken_yo
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awesome dude.... you should love it.

| - John || Project Log || Official I'm Going To Drive My Neon Till It Dies Club #000001 |
Everyone knows that for breasts to be "perfect" they need to be within reach.
- MoparNeonMan
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- stang892k5
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- hansken_yo
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| - John || Project Log || Official I'm Going To Drive My Neon Till It Dies Club #000001 |
Everyone knows that for breasts to be "perfect" they need to be within reach.
- stang892k5
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