What to do next
What to do next
Well I have been building my car as a daily driver with weekend track suspension. I like to keep the ACR still in it so I run adjustable struts and springs and not C/O's Here is what I have now and want to know what others think is the next step.
Alignment Specs:
Front:
Camber (L:-0.5, R: -0.5)
Toe (L: .00, R: .01)
Rear:
Camber (L: -1.0, R: -1.0)
Toe (L: .01, R: .01)
19mm Rear Swaybar
26mm PTGT Front Swaybar
Energy Control Arm Bushings
Energy Poly Swaybar Bushings
Energy Poly Tension Strut Bushings
Hotchkis Poly Bumpstops
Hotchkis Springs
MP ACR Tension Struts
Prothane Front Sway Bar Links
Prothane Rear Shorty Sway Bar Links
Tokico ACR Adjustable Struts (Front 2, Rear 3)
Urethane Filled Rear Strut Mounts
Vibrant Front STB
Vibrant Rear STB
16" ACR BBS Wheels
225/45/16 BFG KDW2's
I think Hotchkis sways are my next step along with MP adjustable control arms. I may even change to Rage-tek CA bushings.
Alignment Specs:
Front:
Camber (L:-0.5, R: -0.5)
Toe (L: .00, R: .01)
Rear:
Camber (L: -1.0, R: -1.0)
Toe (L: .01, R: .01)
19mm Rear Swaybar
26mm PTGT Front Swaybar
Energy Control Arm Bushings
Energy Poly Swaybar Bushings
Energy Poly Tension Strut Bushings
Hotchkis Poly Bumpstops
Hotchkis Springs
MP ACR Tension Struts
Prothane Front Sway Bar Links
Prothane Rear Shorty Sway Bar Links
Tokico ACR Adjustable Struts (Front 2, Rear 3)
Urethane Filled Rear Strut Mounts
Vibrant Front STB
Vibrant Rear STB
16" ACR BBS Wheels
225/45/16 BFG KDW2's
I think Hotchkis sways are my next step along with MP adjustable control arms. I may even change to Rage-tek CA bushings.
Last edited by SlvrACR on Thu Mar 29, 2007 3:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Mr Josh Zombie
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- LCPLPunk
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Hey Slvr, there is a group buy for the 26" Progress rear sways going on at the Neons.org group buy forums. He's selling em for 100 shipped, sounds like a good deal.
Where did u get ur sway bar bushings?
Where did u get ur sway bar bushings?
2001 Neon R/T
Deyeme Motor Mounts, Booger Bushings, JohnnyMopar Cradle Bushings, SRT Silver shift knob, Maddog STS, SRT Rear Seat, K&N WAI, Magnecore Wires, Mobil 1 Full Synthetic Oil, Coil pack heat shield
""The bitterest tears shed over graves are for words left unsaid and deeds left undone" - Harriet Beecher Stowe"
Deyeme Motor Mounts, Booger Bushings, JohnnyMopar Cradle Bushings, SRT Silver shift knob, Maddog STS, SRT Rear Seat, K&N WAI, Magnecore Wires, Mobil 1 Full Synthetic Oil, Coil pack heat shield
""The bitterest tears shed over graves are for words left unsaid and deeds left undone" - Harriet Beecher Stowe"
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supertrick_05
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- fixitmattman
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Re: What to do next
Unless you need some hardcore adjustability and weight loss, I don't know if the adjustable control arms are worth the effort. A set of Rage-teks or another spherical setup in stock LCA's will IMO really wake up the car and probably give you the feel you're looking for. You still have a good amount of adjustability as far as camber is concerned with the stock knuckles, if not nothing a little slotting the struts won't fix. Like I say, unless you need that hardcore adjustment, or want the caster adjustability an adjustable control arm may offer, I would just throw some rage-teks in.SlvrACR wrote: I think Hotchkis sways are my next step along with MP adjustable control arms. I may even change to Rage-tek CA bushings.
Any links to these MP adjustable control arms?
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How to fix your car:
1. Buy a Haynes manual
2. Read Haynes maual
3. Read and search appropriate threads, trust us, it's been covered before
4. Fix car
5. Consume beer of job well done
How to fix your car:
1. Buy a Haynes manual
2. Read Haynes maual
3. Read and search appropriate threads, trust us, it's been covered before
4. Fix car
5. Consume beer of job well done
How are your tires wearing with that alignment. Just asking mine is very similar with a tad more camber up front and is wearing the outsides fast than the insides.
YUP I guess I like to turn too.
YUP I guess I like to turn too.
2004 Neon SE -- Mods -- K&N CAI, R/T Muffler, Booger Bushings, Prothane Suspension & Race MM Inserts, Vitor's TM Inserts
- hansken_yo
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I ran the -.05 camber (front & rear) for 2 years and still was balding the outside of my tires with no noticable wear on the inside.
I'm actually getting them set to -1.0 deg on saturday, but there is a FAQ on the other org saying that you could go as far as -2.0 deg camber with negligable inside tire wear.
I'm actually getting them set to -1.0 deg on saturday, but there is a FAQ on the other org saying that you could go as far as -2.0 deg camber with negligable inside tire wear.

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Everyone knows that for breasts to be "perfect" they need to be within reach.
I thought for our cars you should run more negative camber in the front and less in the rear in order to reduce under-steer??
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- hansken_yo
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Running according to who's setup?SlvrACR wrote:To tell you the truth ive been running it like that for a year and havent seen much uneven wear at all.
that is a new one to me... I've reduced understeer just by "tightening" up the suspension... I know adjusting the camber helps with tire wear and traction, but (this shows how much I'm an amateur) wouldn't having less "traction/camber" in the rear induce more understeer?daaboots wrote:I thought for our cars you should run more negative camber in the front and less in the rear in order to reduce under-steer??

| - John || Project Log || Official I'm Going To Drive My Neon Till It Dies Club #000001 |
Everyone knows that for breasts to be "perfect" they need to be within reach.
Are you confusing understeer with body roll?hansken_yo wrote:I've reduced understeer just by "tightening" up the suspension...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Understeer
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