Rear disc conversion question-if you've done the swap, read

daaboots · Post by **daaboots** » Fri Apr 13, 2007 8:49 am

When you did your rear disc conversion, did you have to remove the hub from the spindle in order to install the backing plate and dust plate (assuming your using your stock knuckles)??

I was kinda under the impression that the spindle and hub would just unbolt but it looks like I cant get at the spindle bolts cause the hub is in the way. If this is confusing i can get pics tonight.

Thanks for the help.

hansken_yo · Post by **hansken_yo** » Fri Apr 13, 2007 11:00 am

I picked up my hub/spindles as one unit. The backing "dust" plates were already installed.

maybe this will help a little. just in case you missed some bolts or somethin

Oh yeah.. this image doesn't have the ebrake in it so there are those parts as well

daaboots · Post by **daaboots** » Fri Apr 13, 2007 12:40 pm

Ah ok *light turns on upstairs*

I was thinking the spindle was bolted to the knuckle but now i see that its actually all one part.

So does anyone know for sure if the SRT-4 spindle/knuckle and hub are the same as the Neon?

jmr · Post by **jmr** » Sat Apr 21, 2007 10:02 pm

Been there done that an easy sway bro.... If you can do a mainfold swap this is easy.

Note 1: Your drum brake hubs and knuckles will work with disc brakes. Only difference is the SRT knuckles strut attachment point
is offset more for tire width clearance. (I have a SRT knuckle set for sale) See my add it has pictures to illustrate the offset.
http://forum.2gn.org/viewtopic.php?t=17897&highlight=

Note 2: To make the rear brakes the same as SRT spec buy SRT spec rotors (they are thicker) and the SRT spec pads (thinner plate). The calipers are the same for both SRT/Standard brake spec.

1) Disconnect e-brake cable from lever in console and pull cables out of the car.

2) Remove the nut that goes onto the knuckle (160 ft. lbs) that hold the hubs on.

3) With the hub removed then unbolt the 4 bolts that hold on the drum backing plate (maybe 45 ft lbs) to the knuckle.

4) Disconnect brake line then quickly connect your new rear caliper to the brake line (bungy the caliper to the strut tower for now). You won't have a bunch of dripping brake fluid on the floor this way since you swapped it over quickly.

5) Attach the disc backing plate back on the spindle using the 4 bolts. I think they are on at 45 ft. lbs but verify that.

6) Slide hub onto the spindle and tighten the nut to 160 ft. lbs. I know this for a fact....it's f-ing on there.

7) Put rotor on hub then mount caliper on the adapter 2 bolts/pins.

) Put the e-brake cables back in place.

9) Bleed the calipers.

10) Adjust the e-brake so that does have some drag so that the lever doesn't have to be pulled all the way back to engage the e-brakes. I have a MTX so a properly functioning e-brake was a must although I never trust the e-brake alone....always park tranny in gear.

Congrats...You now have a kick ass looking set of rear disc brakes to display through your wheels.