Running All Engine, And Need Info

96turbo · Post by **96turbo** » Fri Apr 13, 2007 7:23 pm

I decided a while back to beef up my 96 SOHC and had been working on replacing all the necessary stuff to hold compression, I finally have the car in perfect running condition now w/o power steering and AC.
I've already got the CAI and it works beautifully, HUGE gain actually. I lowered it with the Eibach Sportlines and KYB struts/shocks, strut bars front and rear. And a few smaller things done like the EGR block off and things. (Will post pictures later)

What I need to know is if anyone has an UDP installed and how much of a gain they actually got out of it, I've been looking at getting the MPX on modern, but I'm hesitant because I don't know exactly how much of a gain it is and if it's worth the money.

I also want to put a lightweight flywheel on it, it's an automatic though and I don't know if there's a huge differance in it from the stock one, I know the manuals are a lot heavier than autos so if you know about the flywheel upgrade on the auto let me know.

And lastly I'm going to be buying a stainless header, I would just like to know which brand will give me the best bang for my buck, this one is a for sure because of the looks and power. When I post the pics you'll understand.

Thanks for the help everyone, but please if you don't have an answer to the questions I would appreciate it if you wouldn't post.

ragek23 · Post by **ragek23** » Fri Apr 13, 2007 9:04 pm

imo the atx fly wheel ( i think its called something else when its an atx) is very light compared to the mtx version. I don't think it would be worth the $$ to get the light weight flywheel.

96turbo · Post by **96turbo** » Fri Apr 13, 2007 9:24 pm

ragek23 wrote:imo the atx fly wheel ( i think its called something else when its an atx) is very light compared to the mtx version. I don't think it would be worth the $$ to get the light weight flywheel.

Yeah that's what I've heard, I wasn't sure though so thanks.

neon12sec · Post by **neon12sec** » Sat Apr 14, 2007 10:11 am

get the udp it worth the money. revs much quicker and you will gain some power since it will reduce the rotational mass of your engine

fusion210 · Post by **fusion210** » Sat Apr 14, 2007 12:09 pm

What I need to know is if anyone has an UDP installed and how much of a gain they actually got out of it, I've been looking at getting the MPX on modern, but I'm hesitant because I don't know exactly how much of a gain it is and if it's worth the money.

People will say they felt it and such, but the only thing I noticed is that I had to slip the clutch a little more when comming from a stop. It's hard to say what kind of gain you will get with any neon parts by looking at other people's dynos, they arn't well documented and there arn't too many. You'd have to dyno it yourself. That said, on a naturally aspirated build up I'd still get one, unorthodox still has 10 left of their racing version they are clearing out, only $85 shipped! I'm using one right now and I love it.
http://www.unorthodoxracing.com/ go to parts blowout, then scroll halfway down till you get to Crank Pulleys, chrysler
Underdrive Single-Belt Conversion (Ultra R) for 95-04 Neon 2.0/2.4L SOHC/DOHC (Includes inner hub)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v612/ ... sstock.jpg

As far as being worth the money, well, expect to pay a lot for little when it comes to all motor stuff.

I also want to put a lightweight flywheel on it, it's an automatic though and I don't know if there's a huge differance in it from the stock one, I know the manuals are a lot heavier than autos so if you know about the flywheel upgrade on the auto let me know.

Automatics don't have flywheels, what you're refering to is the flexplate. It's what the torque converter bolts to and what the starter drives to start the car. The confusion comes in when manual transmission cars can also have a flexplate. They have one when there is a modular clutch (a pressure plate, clutch disk, and flywheel all in one) that comes as one assembly, which bolts to the flexplate. Manuals with a modular clutch use the same flexplate as the automatic.

And lastly I'm going to be buying a stainless header, I would just like to know which brand will give me the best bang for my buck, this one is a for sure because of the looks and power. When I post the pics you'll understand.

I think stainless is overrated but that's just me.
The first that comes to mind is the modern performance one.
http://www.modernperformance.com/dcx/mp ... ader.shtml
A longtube is the only way to go on a naturally aspirated build, as it brings the most useable power. The longer the tubes, the lower in rpm you'll have power. As long as they are for the neon, this actually means you'll have power in high rpms, something short like the pacesetter is actually tuned for 10k+ rpm, which a neon won't need.
Check this article out for header tuning http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/he ... index.html

I wouldn't get the modern one though, it's fine as something that's stainless and you can just bolt on, but it doesn't have a merge collector and the primaries are small. But that's just me, I'm sure it would be 'just fine' for the vast majority of neonites.

Then the obx longtube on ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OBX-St-S ... dZViewItem
Slightly bigger primaries than the modern performance one, this is a tti ripoff (as you'll find obx and other noname brands on ebay just rip everyone off) and I would honestly expect it to break. Cheap materials and cheap labor. But it's one of those things where you might try it out but be prepared to visit your local welding buddy incase something does go wrong.

gilly02le · Post by **gilly02le** » Sat Apr 14, 2007 1:26 pm

Stainless overrated??????? apparently where you live they don't use road salt in winter.. mild steel exhaust parts don't last 6 months where i live...

And, The OBX headers aernt cheaply made.. they are t-304 stainless and have robotic tig welds throughout... and because they jacked TTI, They didn't need to charge more, they for R&D obx never had to do.. im sure obx buys one, and copies it to mass produce.. seems to make sense to me....

fusion210 · Post by **fusion210** » Sun Apr 15, 2007 1:03 am

I guess if by lowest quality metals and paying ching chong meow 3 cents an hour isn't cheap I don't know what is.
But I'm sure it comes with quality gaskets, strait flanges, fancy robotic welds that automaticly mean good (those never crack, ever, ever right? right), and a copy that I'm really sure fits perfect with again, perfect flanges, what an awesome piece. I'm sure, just as sure as you!

Because I never read about obx products having fitment problems and breaking. Haven't read about thin flanges and tubing. Haven't read about any of that, it's all a dream.

But I guess you read their ebay pages and know better.

Yes, stainless is overated next to quality coatings, swaintech is good stuff. Currently it only snows once/twice a year but I also lived somewhere the roads got salt from Nov-March and gee, nonstainless things survived. Crazy.

I'm glad it makes sense to you to buy products that are made overseas where you send your money to reward copies instead of innovation.

A new ceramic coated TTi is $266 plus shipping
http://www.ttiexhaust.com/Neon/Hdrs.htm
There were a couple hiccups I saw posted, but they seem to have been worked out. It's going to be about $70 more than the obx, and it's not your fancy stainless, but I'd trust it.

I'm sure OBX didn't copy one of the first sohc ones with the downstream o2 unable to clear the floorpan without pounding the floorpan and the offcenter collector exit that's 2" off or so from the exhaust, right? Right?

gilly02le · Post by **gilly02le** » Sun Apr 15, 2007 12:29 pm

-Removed Comment-

and thats fine.. if steel lasts where you live, go buy it.. i would rather spend the 20 dollars more it costs to get something stainless.. you can say what you want, but i bought a pacesetter catback from modern performance. and it was rusted out after two winters... so.. make your conclusions from there.... unless your gonna say pacesetter is made in asia as well...

fusion210 · Post by **fusion210** » Sun Apr 15, 2007 1:01 pm

KKK, hardly. But it's nice to see you make a little personal attack since you have no argument.

Please tell me about their amazing quality, how they arn't cheaply made, all the other things you said. Please! Inform the uninformed!

Actually the pacesetter is known for being cheap and made overseas as well. Howell even contracted them out to make their longtubes, and had supply problems in customs. lol

The pacesetter exhaust is well known for being a horrid piece of garbage as many have said on neons.org complete with pictures.
I'll make my conclusions from there, thanks.

IF you think you can just add $20 and get the same thing in stainless I'd like to see where. I don't see the add $20 for stainless option.

Chrono_Killa · Post by **Chrono_Killa** » Sun Apr 15, 2007 1:06 pm

yo 96 turbo hit up http://www.1gn.org its the forums for first gens. and get a udp off of ebay i got 1 and it works perfect

gilly02le · Post by **gilly02le** » Sun Apr 15, 2007 1:09 pm

Fusion.. heres the difference... this is my stock cat with 30,000km VS. My Obx downpipe after 60,000KM... hmmmm which would you guys choose.. that nice chunk of rust that wieghs in at a mere 24 lbs.. or the obx which is clearly holding up better to the elements..

I must have been lying when i said stainless lasts better then steel.. lol ive never had any problems with thier stuff. and have always been happy i spent about 50-100 less for it.

Now don't make me go out and get my camera and take pictures of the stock manifold vs the obx shorty header.... because once again.. you will see that the stock is rusted to shit.. and is a peice of garbage to begin with.. the obx is much better.. and stilll hasnt rusted.

fusion210 · Post by **fusion210** » Sun Apr 15, 2007 3:41 pm

Again, more personal attacks.

The factory exhaust components save for the cast iron regular exhaust manifolds and mufflers are in fact mild stainless. Which is why they do a superb job of not rusting out. A slight layer of oxidation is perfectly normal. Stainless will oxidize.

FTWNeon · Post by **FTWNeon** » Sun Apr 15, 2007 7:18 pm

Alright guys, time to drop it. If you want to have a civilized discussion about stainless steel and oxidation, do in the Off Topic section. Watch your language and drop the personal attacks.

Back on Topic