How-To: Aaronneon's 300hp SRT4 Stock Turbo Setup

Post Reply
2001DodgeNeonSe
2GN Member
Posts: 119
Joined: Thu Nov 10, 2005 3:04 am
Location: Washington
Contact:

How-To: Aaronneon's 300hp SRT4 Stock Turbo Setup

Post by 2001DodgeNeonSe » Fri Apr 27, 2007 10:39 pm

Aaronneon's 300hp SRT4 stock turbo upgrade path

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

FMIC
I prefer AGPs or PSI-FI

3 inch exhaust
Any full turbo back

map clamp [emanage-safc] - 4.0-4.2 volts clamping
Dasmopar clamp, ED emanage, or anyones SAFC. Stage 2 cars should clamp at 3.2-3.5 volts

return line kit
Aaronneons ....duuhh

WGA@ 20-22 psi
AGP!

Plugs gapped @ .30-.32
Stock plugs work the best for me

94-110 octane
Sunoco

No boost leaks
Check and double check!! Zip tie ALL vacuum lines

12.5 MAX a/f ratio. This is the highest I will allow. I keep the cars around 11.5-12.5[max]

Stage 1 or 2 injectors will work perfect
With a return line, the stage 1 injectors will be more than enough fuel that the stock turbo will use. No 750ccs newbs.

Stage 0-2 PCM
There is no need for stage 2. If you have it already, I would sell it. If not, then it can still be done.



= 300+whp everytime. I think theres like 11-12 guys here in Ohio alone that are at that mark.

A 60mm TB at this point will help with the midrange, dont expect peak power to raise much. The same with a ported intake manifold. Doing headwork or an aftermarket intake manifold will get you more peak power. W/I is a great idea to help keep the car safe. It is not needed but does help. I have no experience with cams with a 300whp stock turbo car, but that is coming.

Nickspi`s car holds the record for most power so far... 329whp. We are adding a ported TB, exhaust manifold and turbo to raise that number soon. Then we will play with cams. He also doesnt have a fuel computer, so we will get one of those on.


Very simple. NO NEED!!! to ask questions. Buy the mods listed above. Make sure you use good gas. Make sure there are no boost leaks. Make sure the plugs are gapped like listed above. Make sure you have a good a/f ratio. The car will last if you keep up with maintence and watch the A/F ratio.


Please make this a sticky. I have backed this up with over 10 cars. Dasmopar and Vector have with numerous cars also. It will save me from answering the same questions over and over again.


Here are some frequently asked questions answered by aaronneon.

Modification Questions


Can it be done without a voltage clamp of some sort?

I would say most likely not. The timing tables are just to low. My theory would be water/alchy, cams and a good ported head , and trying different things on the dyno might get it done. I just dont see the point in not using a clamp though. The safc, emanage, mamp clamp, dtec, power paq will all make it easier.


What is a map clamp?


very simple. The clamp hides boost from the PCM, which in turn keeps timing high. It also leans the fuel curve out.

Why do you ask? Real simple. Every turbo car from the Factory is programed to give more fuel and less timing when the ecu reads higher boost. Now this is dependent to the map sensor. Via 2 bar or 3 bar..or whatever. The map sensor reads the boost and sends a signal via 5 volt , voltage to the pcm. The higher the volts, the more fuel and less timing the motor will see. THis is done to keep yahoos from blowing their motors. The thing is, Mopar went over board with it. They claim that the EGTs[ exhaust temps] get to high with increased boost. That basically means that turning up the boost, even with a healthy A/F ratio can melt your motor. Thats not a good thing. Now we solve that problem via the map clamp. The map clamp will keep the timing high, in turn bleeds some of the EGTs off. I have proven this a million times. Im not going to get into anymore of that crap.


The map clamp will only allow a certain voltage pass through to the pcm. As i stated before the higher the voltage seen by the pcm, the lower the timing and more fuel you get. We all know the srt runs very rich from the factory. So just leaning it out some will make power, let alone raising timing. The map clamp is adjustable so it can act like a fuel mod also. Its basically a crude SAFC, which is a map clamp per rpm instead of per boost.


Will other mods substituded for the ones listed work?


Absolutley. A dumped exhaust will work inplace of a 3"" exhaust. Contact needswings for one. Water alchy will help alot and also bring the egts down and raise timing. I dont recommend other WGA`s though. AGP is by far the best, trust me. I have tried them all. Any piggy back will work in place of the map clamp... I like the dtec the best.


Are all the mods needed?

No. The mods listed are what i feel will keep the car safe and have been proven time and again to work. Others will go a different route. Some it will take more mods and some will take less.


Do I have to use a staged pcm?

No. Any of the pcms out there will get it done. THats why I recommend the stock pcm. Why spend the money if its not needed. IF you want a plug and play car, get a mopar kit. If you want more and are going to tune it, stick with the stocker. If you already have a staged kit, you can sell it, or use it..your choice. The stage 2 is more of a prick with the piggybacks. Yes you can get them to work, but the pcm does act up with some of the piggies out there.

Is the return line needed?

If you are using a stage 2 car or bigger injectors with a piggyback, No it isnt. Its the easiest and cheapest way so thats why I recommend it.


Is a bigger fuel pump needed?

No a walbro 255 is not needed. The stock pump is good enough, but the 255 is only 100 beans. So its a good cheap mod that can be done while adding a return line.

Should I use a cooler thermostat?

YES! You will need to keep the car cool, otherwise your 300whp will drop pretty fast when racing. I recommend a fan switch! A fan switch is your friend. Look in the how 2 section for that. I use a 160 stat, and like it. Others like the 180. Each one will work fine.

Can i use a boostcontroller?

Yes. They arent needed with the AGP wga, thats why I dont mention them. They also spike the turbo more. They will work though

Are colder spark plugs needed?

NO. The stock plugs gapped as listed, work fine. Agp sells a nice set if you want to go aftermarket

Is a bigger FMIC needed?

I havent tuned a 300whp without one, but I would say no. Add some W/I in the mix, and that should get it done. It may take a bit more tuning also. You can also expect a faster decline in power when racing numerous times

What about Water injection?

This is a great mod. It will help with detonation, keeping the egts lower and aid with fueling. Timing will go up, and the combustion chamber gets cleaned. Might be used inplace of a big FMIC. I havent experienced 300whp without a cooler though

Tuning Questions:


Are the boost numbers listed needed and are they spiked or holding?

A normal 300whp tune, I use 20 psi holding for awhile falling to 16. That should get it done. For more wtrq I spike it to 22 and falling to 16. You can get these numbers with lower boost, but it will take more tuning for sure. Try some things on the dyno and track and see what works best for you.

Can 20psi be held to redline?

Yes, but I havent seen that much of a difference on the dyno to go through the hassel.

Can this be done on pump gas?

Check the mod lits, you see 94 octane on there right? Can it be done with lower octane? Maybe. Anything less than 93, I would use water/alchy injection to be on the safe side. I always recommend atleast 93 to my customers. Cali guys....well you get nice weather so stop beatchin

What fuel pressure should I use?

That needs to be proven on a wideband. No way to say for sure, with the different mods out there. I would start with 50psi with the vacuum line off. Then raise or lower from there

What about EGTs?

Oh boy not this again. If u follow the how 2, you wont have a problem. Street, dyno and track tested. Raising the timing along with a nice a/f ratio will keep the egts in check

What about a/f ratio?

Depends on the gas and persons choice. In an ideal sitiuation with all the tuning crap available.. I would like to see 12.4 across the board and falling to 11.8 at around 5600 to redline. Now that doesnt mean 12s are bad... It just, Thats what ideal is to me.



How do the vacuum lines get set up?

I always use the green line. I like the added torque. I run the pink line to the TB vacuum port, block the blue line and everything else. I dont use the soleniods at all. Also no BLEED is needed.



Misc questions

Will these mods void my warranty?

If you need to aske this question, you need to sell the car and move to greenland

Is this setup good for daily driving?

YES!! Thats the whole point, a 300whp daily driver.

How much does this setup cost?

Depends on the brands and if you bought the stuff new or not. So i wont ball park it

What is the expected track times with this setup?

Depends on driver, track prep and temp, and weight of the car. We all know what das has done, so aim for the 11s



Biggest question of them all:

IS THIS SETUP REALLY SAFE??

We have numerous cars that have thousands of miles with similar setups. not one person to my knowledge has had a problem. now things happen, and that should be taken into condsideration when modding your vehicle. Take it to someone who knows the SRT, not just cars. People make that mistake alot, and it hurst the wallet. Mod your car at your own risk. Running 300whp and higher boost will put alot of strain on the stock turbo. The life will be shortened. how long is unknown. We have cars with 50k miles at 20+psi , but that doesnt mean yours will last that long.

Thanks to Aaron Neon for this great write up for those of us that will or have already done srt swaps in are 2nd gens. I dont remember where I found this info, it was saved on my comp. But all credit goes to AaronNeon. Use this info at your own risk, dont point fingers if you mess up your car.
Image

User avatar
Craz1000
2GN Member
Posts: 682
Joined: Mon Mar 05, 2007 11:39 pm
Location: Port St Lucie

Post by Craz1000 » Sat Apr 28, 2007 1:43 am

using MS will make this setup alot more reliable and youll get a way better tune with it
Image

User avatar
kc2005ptgt
Former Moderator
Posts: 6587
Joined: Wed Dec 14, 2005 7:39 pm
Location: Kansas City, MO
Contact:

Post by kc2005ptgt » Sat Apr 28, 2007 1:47 am

is this for SRT4's only, or is this people who run the 2.0L and turbo it??????
SOLD 5/13- 2005 Chrysler PT Cruiser GT Convertible | 2.4L Turbo HO | Bright Silver Metallic
SOLD 7/09- 2002 Dodge Neon ACR | Flame Red
The Offical: Sold My Neon Even Though I Swore I Never Would Club | Member #777

Image

2001DodgeNeonSe
2GN Member
Posts: 119
Joined: Thu Nov 10, 2005 3:04 am
Location: Washington
Contact:

Post by 2001DodgeNeonSe » Sat Apr 28, 2007 3:16 am

Its for srt4 engine
Image

User avatar
MoparNeonMan
2GN Member
Posts: 407
Joined: Wed Aug 31, 2005 1:39 pm
Location: Little Elm Texas

Re: How-To: Aaronneon's 300hp SRT4 Stock Turbo Setup

Post by MoparNeonMan » Sat Apr 28, 2007 5:06 am

2001DodgeNeonSe wrote:I recommend a fan switch! A fan switch is your friend. Look in the how 2 section for that.



Ok I just got done searching and I found nothing. Little help?
me and my car have a give and take relationship

it gives me shite and i take it

User avatar
He Hate Me
2GN Member
Posts: 706
Joined: Wed Oct 11, 2006 11:13 pm
Location: CA

Re: How-To: Aaronneon's 300hp SRT4 Stock Turbo Setup

Post by He Hate Me » Sun May 06, 2007 4:20 pm

MoparNeonMan wrote:
2001DodgeNeonSe wrote:I recommend a fan switch! A fan switch is your friend. Look in the how 2 section for that.



Ok I just got done searching and I found nothing. Little help?

http://forum.2gn.org/viewtopic.php?t=20260
2003 Dodge Neon SXT - SRT Swap: FM E2 /w E85 - SOLD
2008 Mazdaspeed 3 - GT2871R /w E85 - Current

srtjesse
2GN Member
Posts: 2968
Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2007 6:47 pm
Location: sin city baby

trfsvged

Post by srtjesse » Mon Dec 17, 2007 11:06 am

allright 300 ponnies here i come
Image

2004 white dodge neon 2.4 DOHC swapped
2004 red dodge neon srt-4 gone :(
2000 flat black plymouth neon 2.0 DOHC swapped gone :(
2002 silver dodge neon parts car R.I.P
2000 green dodge neon parts car R.I.P

NeonOn19s
2GN Member
Posts: 2074
Joined: Mon Nov 07, 2005 11:44 am
Location: Spring,TX

Post by NeonOn19s » Tue Mar 04, 2008 10:40 am

Aaronneons site for the return lie kit?
| Nathan |
Image


Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon til it Dies" Club Member # 72
Semper Fi!!! USMC

Post Reply

Return to “HT Engine”