What mods to do first?

BillKaulitz · Post by **BillKaulitz** » Sat May 19, 2007 12:17 pm

I want ideas from u guys

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danielc24 · Post by **danielc24** » Sat May 19, 2007 12:23 pm

i say debadge it and take the side mouldings off to start and maybe some clear sidemarkers

biggrobb1995 · Post by **biggrobb1995** » Sat May 19, 2007 12:37 pm

Tint windows, Cold air intake, R/T exhaust and header.

01WhiteNe0n · Post by **01WhiteNe0n** » Sat May 19, 2007 12:41 pm

Debadge, cold air, tint, drop, rims, clear corners, stip mouldings, exhaust.

its a good start

Cbussilver01es · Post by **Cbussilver01es** » Sat May 19, 2007 1:37 pm

LOWER LOWER LOWER for the love of god, lol

BillKaulitz · Post by **BillKaulitz** » Sat May 19, 2007 1:40 pm

Cbussilver01es wrote:LOWER LOWER LOWER for the love of god, lol

r u being sarcastic?

danielc24 · Post by **danielc24** » Sat May 19, 2007 1:59 pm

no our cars look like a 4x4 when stock

60trim · Post by **60trim** » Sat May 19, 2007 2:33 pm

Welcome to the board. The first things I'd do is debadge it, take off the side moldings(they're just glued on, no bolts) and clear coners as well. Then I'd drop a different filter in for now. K&N makes great ones. Suspension shoud come next. Springs, Shocks, Swaybars. Then get some nice rims with sticky tires. Id do all of this in that order so....

1. Debadge
2. Demold
3. Clear corner
4. Suspension
5. Rims
6. R/T exhaust.

Good luck with your car and once again welcome to the board.

bone-yard-racing · Post by **bone-yard-racing** » Sat May 19, 2007 5:14 pm

Tear the wheel covers off and burn them. Look under the rear of the car to see if you have a sway bar if you do spend the $20 for enegry suspension endlinks, if not go to the junkyard and get at least a stock bar. Visit the websites at the bottom for more advice and/or parts

www.modernperformance.com
www.boneyardracing.com
www.allpar.com

SlvrACR · Post by **SlvrACR** » Sat May 19, 2007 5:32 pm

Struts and drop springs, wheels, UDP and intake in that order lol

OB · Post by OB » Sat May 19, 2007 5:38 pm

seeing as how its an atx, save your money on the performance mods.

Debadging and shaved moldings are a solid, free start. Be sure to spend some money to ensure all the basic maintenance stuff is done as well (I assume this car is fairly new to you), such as spark plugs and wires, air filter, oil, trans fluid, brakes, etc.

03sxt · Post by **03sxt** » Sat May 19, 2007 6:16 pm

SlvrACR wrote:Struts and drop springs, wheels, UDP and intake in that order lol

Exactly.

Srt4Me03 · Post by **Srt4Me03** » Sat May 19, 2007 6:55 pm

Definitely without a doubt LOWER it !! Coilovers would be best, but springs and shocks would work as well. Then yes tint, take off those orange side markers and molding , and some nice wheels and thats about it.

BillKaulitz · Post by **BillKaulitz** » Sat May 19, 2007 9:00 pm

OB wrote:seeing as how its an atx, save your money on the performance mods.

Debadging and shaved moldings are a solid, free start. Be sure to spend some money to ensure all the basic maintenance stuff is done as well (I assume this car is fairly new to you), such as spark plugs and wires, air filter, oil, trans fluid, brakes, etc.

you know what I just came from the freeway and I race stick shift neon and I totally blow him off. Or on traffic light... by the time u shift I already am 500ft ahead of you. But thanx for the ideas guys

OB · Post by OB » Sat May 19, 2007 9:07 pm

thats probably because they werent racing.

very few newer neons were made with the mtx; most came with the atx (like every other car on the planet). My dad has an auto 03 and its definatly not capable of blowing the doors off of mine.

BillKaulitz · Post by **BillKaulitz** » Sat May 19, 2007 9:10 pm

OB wrote:thats probably because they werent racing.

very few newer neons were made with the mtx; most came with the atx (like every other car on the planet). My dad has an auto 03 and its definatly not capable of blowing the doors off of mine.

prove it

OB · Post by OB » Sat May 19, 2007 9:14 pm

very well. ive seen several time slips here online with atx guys running around 17.1 to 17.5 in the 1320. You really cant call it driver error, since in an atx the driver just puts their foot in it and goes, so since a low 17 is the fastest anyone has gone in a stock atx (that ive seen), we'll assume that's about their potential. Ive personally run in the 16's with my mtx, and I wouldnt even consider myself a great shifter. This was a long time ago too, when I was still learning to drive the car to its full potential. There are a few guys who have run as quick as 16.1 with a stock mtx 2gn. The auto is slower. period.

lolelectricbluesxt · Post by **lolelectricbluesxt** » Sat May 19, 2007 9:24 pm

Well. I do not know if I nessesarly recommend removing the door guards and such now since it is a 00 neon. You might have some nasty results because of how many years those have been baking in the sun on to the car.

I suppose you could remove the door guards and if you have paint peeling issues or horrific fading you could always double side tape them back on again. But then again I could be a total idiot and know nothing as well.

Mods you would want to do first I would say is get a nice set of struts and lowering springs.

I'm going to have to agree with Derek on this one as well as far as auto vs mtx.

BillKaulitz · Post by **BillKaulitz** » Sat May 19, 2007 9:33 pm

OB wrote:very well. ive seen several time slips here online with atx guys running around 17.1 to 17.5 in the 1320. You really cant call it driver error, since in an atx the driver just puts their foot in it and goes, so since a low 17 is the fastest anyone has gone in a stock atx (that ive seen), we'll assume that's about their potential. Ive personally run in the 16's with my mtx, and I wouldnt even consider myself a great shifter. This was a long time ago too, when I was still learning to drive the car to its full potential. There are a few guys who have run as quick as 16.1 with a stock mtx 2gn. The auto is slower. period.

ive seen many stick shift cars slower than the automatic ones on the traffic-lights xD

OB · Post by OB » Sat May 19, 2007 9:39 pm

Drag racing in a mtx car is a drivers game. A bad driver could easily loose to a lesser car. The point is, a mtx neon is capable of pulling a few lengths on an atx if the driver knew how to drive. It is also going to be substantially faster in the twisties, which is where neons belong anyways if you ask me. If you want a fast straight line car (that doesnt cost 10k to build), you have the wrong platform.

BillKaulitz · Post by **BillKaulitz** » Sat May 19, 2007 9:41 pm

mtx sometimes might sux when u r in big L.A. traffic

and all that shifting is annoying. both of my parents drive mtx. you know I asked my dad to teach me I tried but I cant you know lol. thats all.

OverDrive418 · Post by **OverDrive418** » Sat May 19, 2007 9:43 pm

BillKaulitz wrote: ive seen many stick shift cars slower than the automatic ones on the traffic-lights xD

Out the hole sure because you don't have to launch anything, you just stomp the pedal ang hold it there. But the driver in the manual has the advantage of controling the rpm of each gear he or she is in and can shift according to optimal rather than recommended safe rpm as is the case with computer controlled automatics.

Post by **racer12306** » Sat May 19, 2007 11:04 pm

i guarantee that i will own any auto neon with my manual neon, with similar mods.

oklamopar · Post by **oklamopar** » Sat May 19, 2007 11:04 pm

Make sure maint. is up to date. then.
1: Tint windows (where law allows)
2: Wheels and tires. Even newer stock aluminum is better than steel. (My $.02)
3: Lowering springs and struts or coilovers, depends on route your going with the car.
4: The possibilities are endless, its the money that's not.
Welcome and looking forward to seeing the transformation from stock to shock.

flamingpinhead · Post by **flamingpinhead** » Sat May 19, 2007 11:55 pm

OverDrive418 wrote:
BillKaulitz wrote: ive seen many stick shift cars slower than the automatic ones on the traffic-lights xD
Out the hole sure because you don't have to launch anything, you just stomp the pedal ang hold it there. But the driver in the manual has the advantage of controling the rpm of each gear he or she is in and can shift according to optimal rather than recommended safe rpm as is the case with computer controlled automatics.

braketorque. the neon i can launch very well... much faster than an automatic. but if your talking about just sitting at a light in nutral, then it does take longer to throw it in gear and go than to go from the brake to gas. however, thats why you pay attention the the other lights and know when to put it in 1st.

Cabbs · Post by **Cabbs** » Sun May 20, 2007 3:59 am

Might as well throw in a 60mm throttle body.

Post by **Diablo0** » Sun May 20, 2007 4:11 am

1st gen R/T springs if you wanna get something cheap that will lower yah...

<-- has some that will sell to you

lol

BillKaulitz · Post by **BillKaulitz** » Tue May 22, 2007 4:33 pm

ok so whats the UDP thing and what do u mean by clear edges im new to this stuff soo explain please

Post by **racer12306** » Tue May 22, 2007 4:42 pm

udp = underdrive pulley you remove your stock crank pulley in favor of a smaller and lighter aluminum pulley

clear corners = the orange side markers get replaced with clear pieces. personally on darker cars i like them tinted rather than clear.

Jamie · Post by **Jamie** » Tue May 22, 2007 8:45 pm

turbo