jlm motor mounts

getcrunk88 · Post by **getcrunk88** » Thu Jul 05, 2007 4:01 pm

I was looking to get these motor mounts but i am unsure if they would fit the 04 r/t let me know what you think tia

http://jlmmotorsports.com/detail.php?ID ... Year=00-05

Wenuden · Post by **Wenuden** » Thu Jul 05, 2007 6:53 pm

don't waste $165 bucks. go to home depot (or lowes, depending on your nascar driver preferences) and buy the urethane and fill your stock mounts. or buy inserts. you'll get the same results.

bone-yard-racing · Post by **bone-yard-racing** » Thu Jul 05, 2007 8:57 pm

Make friends with sombody at a body shop and have them order you a tube of professional winshield uerthane.

Wenuden · Post by **Wenuden** » Thu Jul 05, 2007 9:41 pm

I just put inserts in my upper and lower mounts, took about 40 minutes, didn't have to wait for urethane to dry, shape, reshape, and they were only like $24 brand new.

kc2005ptgt · Post by **kc2005ptgt** » Fri Jul 06, 2007 2:54 pm

Do this : http://www.raktron.com/misc/mt.htm

getcrunk88 · Post by **getcrunk88** » Sat Jul 07, 2007 1:16 am

i like pretty much all the ideas but i think i am going to go with prothanes mm inserts i want to get the high strength bolt kit but i dont understand why it comes with 5 when i only need 4 bolts?

kc2005ptgt · Post by **kc2005ptgt** » Sat Jul 07, 2007 1:19 am

I thought one was for the engine mount itself?? a big t55 bolt that is on the passenger side behind the fender? Engine mounting plate I think.

getcrunk88 · Post by **getcrunk88** » Sat Jul 07, 2007 1:24 am

Hmmm thats weird so the one is for a real engine mount not a torque strut? is it a pita to get to?

kc2005ptgt · Post by **kc2005ptgt** » Sat Jul 07, 2007 1:28 am

remove passenger tire, pop out little "gromet" and remove... yeah it is easy.

getcrunk88 · Post by **getcrunk88** » Sat Jul 07, 2007 1:32 am

i guess that sounds easy enough but do i have to worry about it going out of alignment?

kc2005ptgt · Post by **kc2005ptgt** » Sat Jul 07, 2007 1:34 am

No... make sur eyou have a Torx 55 to do it.

getcrunk88 · Post by **getcrunk88** » Sat Jul 07, 2007 1:37 am

hmm according to my haynes manual it shows it as a regular bolt?

MoparNeonMan · Post by **MoparNeonMan** » Sat Jul 07, 2007 7:44 am

getcrunk88 wrote:hmm according to my haynes manual it shows it as a regular bolt?

model year diffrences

kevo · Post by **kevo** » Sat Jul 07, 2007 11:21 am

kc2002acr wrote:remove passenger tire, pop out little "gromet" and remove... yeah it is easy.

I wish it was that easy but its not. I just replaced mine and the main mount is a royal PITA to remove. An engine stand was needed in order to do the swap.

That mount only supports the engine in place like an axis. the torque struts are responsible for forward and rear motion of the engine. 99% of people do not fill their main mount.

My car did indeed have a torx55 and mopar supplies a t-55 bolt with the purchase of any main engine mount.

getcrunk88 · Post by **getcrunk88** » Sat Jul 07, 2007 12:59 pm

i kinda had a feeling that it would be a pita so i better not fool with it ill just keep the biggest bolt for down the road and just replace the 4 on the torque strut

kevo · Post by **kevo** » Sat Jul 07, 2007 1:42 pm

getcrunk88 wrote:i kinda had a feeling that it would be a pita so i better not fool with it ill just keep the biggest bolt for down the road and just replace the 4 on the torque strut

replacing the bolts on your torque struts wont help prevent wheel hop. Get yourself some filled mounts.

also, i am a bit skeptical when it comes to using window weld. None of that stuff really tells you how strong it is on the durometer scale. Considering it is readily available in any hardware store, i cant see it being very strong. Car mounts need to be at least 60 on the durometer scale in order to make any significant difference.

i have a set of srt motor mounts (interchangeable with regular neons) that are filled with 60a liquid urethane for sale.

http://forum.2gn.org/viewtopic.php?p=312949#312949

kc2005ptgt · Post by **kc2005ptgt** » Sat Jul 07, 2007 2:01 pm

It was not a problem for mine... The bolt came right out (with some elbow grease of course) - and yeah, sorry forgot about the engine stand.

kevo · Post by **kevo** » Sat Jul 07, 2007 3:35 pm

kc2002acr wrote:It was not a problem for mine... The bolt came right out (with some elbow grease of course) - and yeah, sorry forgot about the engine stand.

yeah taking the bolt out is the easy part. taking out the mount is another story.

getcrunk88 · Post by **getcrunk88** » Sat Jul 07, 2007 5:48 pm

getcrunk88 wrote:
i kinda had a feeling that it would be a pita so i better not fool with it ill just keep the biggest bolt for down the road and just replace the 4 on the torque strut

kevo wrote:
replacing the bolts on your torque struts wont help prevent wheel hop. Get yourself some filled mounts.

I know that replacing the bolts on them will not make a difference

i said i was getting mm inserts + the 12.9 bolts for shits and giggles and if im not touching the real engine mount why should i put the 12.9 grade bolt in thats all i was saying lol

kevo · Post by **kevo** » Sun Jul 08, 2007 1:16 pm

getcrunk88 wrote:
getcrunk88 wrote:
i kinda had a feeling that it would be a pita so i better not fool with it ill just keep the biggest bolt for down the road and just replace the 4 on the torque strut

kevo wrote:
replacing the bolts on your torque struts wont help prevent wheel hop. Get yourself some filled mounts.
I know that replacing the bolts on them will not make a difference i said i was getting mm inserts + the 12.9 bolts for shits and giggles and if im not touching the real engine mount why should i put the 12.9 grade bolt in thats all i was saying lol

i wasnt directly talking about replacing just the bolt, i was talking about replacing the main mount. I was referencing kc2002acr's post regarding the torx bolt.

filling it with urethane wont help at all. There is only a small gap of about 1/4inch from the urethane in the mount, to the sides of the mount wall.

getcrunk88 · Post by **getcrunk88** » Sun Jul 08, 2007 2:58 pm

oo i understand now... thanks for all the info you guys have supplied me with

i appreciate it

infil · Post by **infil** » Sun Jul 08, 2007 6:37 pm

uhh.......the last few times i've pulled a 2gn apart the timing cover mount was rubber free...i dont see window urethane making the aluminum any harder......

kc2005ptgt · Post by **kc2005ptgt** » Mon Jul 09, 2007 1:45 pm

kevo wrote:
kc2002acr wrote:It was not a problem for mine... The bolt came right out (with some elbow grease of course) - and yeah, sorry forgot about the engine stand.
yeah taking the bolt out is the easy part. taking out the mount is another story.

Ahh got ya, yeah that mount SUX.

bone-yard-racing · Post by **bone-yard-racing** » Mon Jul 09, 2007 2:26 pm

kevo wrote:[
also, i am a bit skeptical when it comes to using window weld. None of that stuff really tells you how strong it is on the durometer scale. Considering it is readily available in any hardware store, i cant see it being very strong. Car mounts need to be at least 60 on the durometer scale in order to make any significant difference.

3M is the most popular and is pretty strong but, the stuff I get from the body shop makes the mounts just as solid if not more than the prothane mounts and the vibration seems to be a little less.