Lower Pressure Pipe for SRT

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Thu Jul 19, 2007 3:51 pm

Well I picked up this from a local person the other day, brand new never installed:

Except mine came with 4 worm style clamps and that one coupler you see that has the odd shape in the middle was not there. It just had two regular ones like the one shown to the left.

Description:

Compliment your Upper Pressure Pipe with this Lower

Pressure Pipe (hot side pipe). It is made of the same

2.5” mandrel bent aluminized steel tubing, includes single

stage powdercoat and straight reinforced couplers in

your choice of red, blue or black; as well as 2 high

torque stainless worm clamps and 2 stainless steel

t-bolt clamps (the intercooler is oval shaped on the

inlet and t-bolt clamps will not work).

Well anyways, I installed it this afternoon. PITA btw. But I got on there nice and good and made sure the clamps were on there hella tight. I went and test drove it...and here are my questions on the test drive and the differences I noticed...

-Before the install say I am just driving around and take first gear to 3k and let off without going into boost you can here the stock BOV go like shshshshsh, like its stuttering. Same with second and third, its quite annoying. Now that noise is completely gone! Which is good IMO.... Is this normal?

- Does it take a while for the computer to realize that theres more air flow now, since I got rid of the reg. silicone hose and have a hardpipe there? (Silicone hose flexes under boost) I did a couple WOT runs and it seems to hold boost fine just like normal, spikes around 14 and holds it there or 13, but not in first, which is only 10 but I heard thats normal for first gear.
(Car is bone stock except for K&N cai,catch can and check valve)

-Would it be a good idea to get a cold side pressure pipe to compliment the more airflow, or does it even matter?

-I stated above that I got a total of 4 worm style clamps, but the description says it comes with 2 regular ones... Would the worm style clamps be fine on the hotside. (round) Seems to be fine and on there really tight.

Sorry for all the n00b questions, I just want to make sure everything is fine... I plan on doing a boost leak test this Sunday. (finally) with another SRT-4 owner.

Thanks.

OB · Post by OB » Thu Jul 19, 2007 3:56 pm

Ive always wondered what caused that stuttering BOV sound. I like it personally, think it sounds pretty cool. Ive heard some very nice cars make it so im pretty sure its intentional/normal. Almost sounds like the BOV opens and closes really fast or something, not sure why though. Anyone know? I figured it was just a design difference to make it sound different.

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Thu Jul 19, 2007 4:03 pm

OB wrote:Ive always wondered what caused that stuttering BOV sound. I like it personally, think it sounds pretty cool. Ive heard some very nice cars make it so im pretty sure its intentional/normal. Almost sounds like the BOV opens and closes really fast or something, not sure why though. Anyone know? I figured it was just a design difference to make it sound different.

Its sounds like the BOV is opening and closing really fast.

My guess is that since I have more airflow down there...well a tiny bit, its not opening up the BOV when I am not under boost because less restriction means less pressure. I could be full of BS, but I am just trying to make an educated guess.

MoxHair · Post by **MoxHair** » Thu Jul 19, 2007 4:38 pm

The Change in sound in the BOV could be from a boost leak being created or a boost leak being fixed. My Bov used to make weird noises until I Found a vacuum line was not connected.

The NGC3 computer in your 04 should learn the new Air/Fuel maps in a couple Key Strokes... I doubt Hardpipes do a whole lot in terms of increased airflow, maybe a more consistent airflow. Increase in Power is probably very minimal. Your Boost levels are normal for a Stage 0, no WGA, No MBC, SRT-4. First gear isn't suppose to go over 10, and your 13/14 spike is where it's suppose to be. The Stock Computer will do its best to adjust the A/F and Boost to keep it within Stock parameters.

A hard cold side pipe will help.. But how much it helps is all based upon how well your intercooler flows. A faster flowing intercooler would benefit more from a Hard Cold Side Pipe more than a Lower Flow Intercooler.

I myself, haven't upgraded to Hardpipes yet because of how little they do. Sure every bit helps but on my stock turbo and boost levels I just don't see the benefit over weighing the price... maybe after I install my Stage 3

As long as your Clamps are tight and they arent buckleing tight, I would say your fine with the 4 worms. Maybe a Dewormer from your vet will help you with this.

EDIT - oh the noise you heard when no in boost and letting off the gas was the turbo flutter. and it's coming from the intake and not the BOV. Normal with a SRI. At least thats what I think from how you described it.

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Thu Jul 19, 2007 4:44 pm

As long as your Clamps are tight and they arent buckleing tight, I would say your fine with the 4 worms. Maybe a Dewormer from your vet will help you with this.

Ass

Yeah hopefully I didn't create a bosot leak.. Its just odd, because everything is connected perfectly and tight.

Thanks for the advice man.

I picked it up because it only cost me $10! So what the hell! I still have the stock intercooler.

MoxHair · Post by **MoxHair** » Thu Jul 19, 2007 4:46 pm

its always possible to create a boost leak in an SRT-4. Go around the engine bay and make sure your vacuum lines are zip tied and all your other Clamps are on tight.

$10 is a very good price.

oh and if you watched Futurama you would know that having worms isn't such a bad thing. lol

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Thu Jul 19, 2007 11:07 pm

To tell you the truth I have no idea where my vacuum lines are..

Are they the lines running off of the solenoid? They are all over the place!!!

I drove to work and back today and I turned off the radio and just listened closely...

When I get on it, I hear the turbo spool up shhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhHHHHHHHHHHH gets louder the more it spools up. And if I have it all the way down and its spiking at 13 and let off I hear the BOV, PSHHHHHHHHHHHH but its not as loud as before... Now say I am just cruisin around not getting on it at all. I do not here the BOV at all, but I do here a, "fffffffffffffffff" when I switch gears... Like when you ate a bunch of beans and youare trying to make your farts silent its just goes "fffffffffffffffffff" Like air escaping your ass without noise.

Any ideas?

MoxHair · Post by **MoxHair** » Fri Jul 20, 2007 7:52 am

yes the plastic lines coming off of the solenoids are the vacuum lines. Zip Tie them where ever they meet a coupler.

Check your Pipe where its oval make sure that its tight on all sides. May be just tight on the corners and that would allow boost to slip by.

Alot of the Flutter noise you hear is normal, especially with a CAI.

I really wish I could drive over there and see for myself, Internet sound affects are just not good enough lol/

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Fri Jul 20, 2007 9:38 am

Internet sound affects are just not good enough lol/

I know man, it sucks.

I think I am just gonna put my stock one back on.

The stock one was on there so effing tight. Which is a good sign... I am gonna lsiten to myself next time, I had a bad feeling about putting that on there... I just don't get where the boost could escape when I have it on there really tight.

When I put my stock one back on Saturday, I will take the hardpipe off carefully and see if I messed up somewhere, which I doubt I did. Oh well, I will just save it for when I get a bigger FMIC and more boost before I put it on again.

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Fri Jul 20, 2007 1:59 pm

I tried taking it off today instead of tomorrow and I couldn't get that one bolt... so I tightened it all down extra tight and brought into a local shop, he looked at it, and said all the clamps were on good and there is no way air to escape, its just on a bit crooked so it might make it a bit harder to build boost and thats about it. So I am just gonna leave it 0n there. He didn't charge me anything either.

MoxHair · Post by **MoxHair** » Fri Jul 20, 2007 5:49 pm

as long as its air tight then your good.

Check your vacuum lines just to make sure nothing is loose. Zip Ties are your friends.

dysphagia · Post by **dysphagia** » Fri Jul 20, 2007 11:16 pm

boost leak test!!!! its a must! that noise you heard was prob compressor surge, which is really no good. i would strongly advise replacing every worm drive you have with t-bolt clamps, at the most they are 5 bucks a piece but they dont loosen up over time like worm drives

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Fri Jul 20, 2007 11:21 pm

Getting a boost leak test Sunday morning. will also check out all the vac lines that day.

I don't plan on replacing the worm clamps for the intercooler on the hotside, they are made for it, check out my quote in the first post at the bottom.

dysphagia · Post by **dysphagia** » Sun Jul 22, 2007 3:42 am

t-bolt clamps will work the oval inlet, they worked on mine and about 5 other srt's in the area. the t-bolt clamps are more of a "piece of mind" mod anyway

hansken_yo · Post by **hansken_yo** » Sun Jul 22, 2007 11:15 am

seeing that we are talking about boost, boost leaks and the sounds the car makes when also spooling about 2psi.... isn't our BOV a diaphram which is why we get that weird sound?