motor mount help

This is the place to ask questions about your engine components like cams, valves, pistons… just anything that is generally "engine" specific. This also includes questions about exhaust systems such as exhaust manifolds, piping size, mufflers, ect...
Post Reply
02goldse
2GN Member
Posts: 357
Joined: Fri Apr 27, 2007 7:57 pm
Location: Drums,PA

motor mount help

Post by 02goldse » Wed Jul 25, 2007 8:02 pm

under the hood next to the engine and the strut tower there is a silver mounting piece...what is that called and is there any aftermarket companies that sell them..?

User avatar
danielc24
2GN Member
Posts: 601
Joined: Mon Jul 31, 2006 3:59 pm
Location: Sidney , OH

Post by danielc24 » Wed Jul 25, 2007 9:57 pm

that's your upper torque strut , you can buy inserts or you can fill yours...
Image

02goldse
2GN Member
Posts: 357
Joined: Fri Apr 27, 2007 7:57 pm
Location: Drums,PA

Post by 02goldse » Wed Jul 25, 2007 10:33 pm

well any aftermarket companies make these..?

Wenuden
2GN Member
Posts: 2554
Joined: Fri Apr 06, 2007 11:53 pm
Location: Alexandria, Va

Post by Wenuden » Thu Jul 26, 2007 12:10 am

a few. 3 come to mind. why you interested in them? do you have a built/powerful motor? or are your stock ones ripped?

if your stock ones are ripped and the motor's not turbo'd, n2o'd, or a built NA, inserts will fix the problem (unless somehow all 4 pieces of rubber are torn) for about $30 shipped. if it's a built motor, AGP, Boomba, and Bwoody make solid aluminum ones. The solids are a waste of money if you're stock or only mildly modded, unless you're building a show car.

Edit: checked your garage. unless you plan on doin a ton of work, solids will only look good and the vibration will probably end up annoying you. but you won't have wheel hop lol.

User avatar
kc2005ptgt
Former Moderator
Posts: 6587
Joined: Wed Dec 14, 2005 7:39 pm
Location: Kansas City, MO
Contact:

Post by kc2005ptgt » Thu Jul 26, 2007 2:18 am

I was gonna say that the solids will do a whole hell of a lot more than just look good, but then I read your last post. Even a stock neon will have lots of wheel hop and solids are the best route. IF you are wanting to replace with aftermarket for performance, solid is way to go, and if money is an issue, and you want to keep the fillings in your teeth, than inserts will be best (try http://www.modernperformance.com), and do a great job of doing so, but go with the race.. yeah, vibrates, but worth it.

NOW, if you are doing it because you need to replace a broken one, I can get you one for about $40 used. :D
SOLD 5/13- 2005 Chrysler PT Cruiser GT Convertible | 2.4L Turbo HO | Bright Silver Metallic
SOLD 7/09- 2002 Dodge Neon ACR | Flame Red
The Offical: Sold My Neon Even Though I Swore I Never Would Club | Member #777

Image

02goldse
2GN Member
Posts: 357
Joined: Fri Apr 27, 2007 7:57 pm
Location: Drums,PA

Post by 02goldse » Thu Jul 26, 2007 7:55 am

mine is cracked almost all the way around and need to replace it b4 it gets worse

Crashin
2GN Member
Posts: 252
Joined: Fri Jun 15, 2007 5:10 pm
Location: Alberta, Canada

Post by Crashin » Thu Jul 26, 2007 10:30 am

2000 Neon Le - *DEAD*
Ported Mag head, AMM intake, Comp 400, Mag header, Mpx 60mm TB, Cosmo Racing UDP & CAI, AFX/R PCM.
Rex motor mount inserts, Maddog 33% STS w/booger & Jonnymopar bushings.
Spring - Nitrous

Post Reply

Return to “Engine”