AC problems

apk2k6 · Post by **apk2k6** » Tue Aug 07, 2007 2:57 pm

Whenever I go to turn on my air conditioning, it only works on the highest setting(the temperature settings work fine). The other settings work the same as if it were off. This is the same for both the actually cold air side and the fan as well.

Sometimes it will work perfectly, but recently it hasn't been. It just works on the highest setting. I was wondering what the problem could be. I took my dash apart last year to swap out the harnesses but this problem has only started within the last month.

gilly02le · Post by **gilly02le** » Tue Aug 07, 2007 3:13 pm

HVAC controls may be corroded somehow, or burnt.. take it apart and see if its burnt or corroded somehow...

tommigun · Post by **tommigun** » Tue Aug 07, 2007 4:59 pm

I had the same problem with my old VW and plenty of BMWs have the same problem as well. With them, the cause is this resistor (not sure of the exact word since I'm not native English-speaker). It is usually located somewhere near the glove compartment. Not sure if Neon's have one but worth looking into imho.

aperson · Post by **aperson** » Wed Aug 08, 2007 12:04 am

Most cars have a resistor like tommigun said in the air box for the heat/ac system to keep it cool. It usually looks like some copper wires wound at different rates and lengths to vary the resistance. The reason your high setting works is that it isnt a coil, its just a jumper. They are usually corroded or have been burned up.

apk2k6 · Post by **apk2k6** » Wed Aug 08, 2007 8:48 am

Does anyone know where these resistors are exactly in our cars? Or how I can go about replacing them?

apk2k6 · Post by **apk2k6** » Wed Aug 08, 2007 11:49 am

I've been having the codes P0456 and P0441 ever since I swapped out the harnesses, does this have to do with the AC at all?

60trim · Post by **60trim** » Wed Aug 08, 2007 11:56 am

P0441-EVAP PURGE SYSTEM PERFORMANCE
P0456-EVAP SYSTEM SMALL LEAK

in english...its probably your gas cap not sealing correctly. Get a new one and you should be fine. Don't forget to disconnect the battery to reset the computer.

aperson · Post by **aperson** » Wed Aug 08, 2007 2:13 pm

If I had my damn car back from the body shop I would go look for ya (its been there over a damn month) I would look next to the fan motor, you should see a plug going into the side of the air box under the dash somewhere, probably on the passengers side. If its not there look on the firewall in the engine bay. Sorry I couldn't help more.

apk2k6 · Post by **apk2k6** » Wed Aug 08, 2007 2:32 pm

Sounds like I need a blower motor resistor. I just need to locate it and find out where to buy one.

Edit: Figured out where it's located under the hood, now I just need to know where to buy one.

aperson · Post by **aperson** » Thu Aug 09, 2007 12:43 am

Advance, Autozone, any place should carry it. If all else fails go to the dealer, they'll overcharge you like always but it comes down to how bad do you want those other speeds?

apk2k6 · Post by **apk2k6** » Mon Aug 13, 2007 12:42 pm

So I installed the new blower motor resistor and no success. The AC/fan only works on the high settings still. Any more ideas?

Edit: The only corrosion I see is the green substance in the pic, I tried cleaning it up as best as I could with a q-tip and toothpick but I still have the problem.

apk2k6 · Post by **apk2k6** » Wed Aug 15, 2007 11:03 am

Any other suggestions? I'm trying to fix it myself rather than take it to the dealership.

apk2k6 · Post by **apk2k6** » Fri Aug 17, 2007 10:55 pm

On srtforums a member said this:

"Leave the resistor plugged in.

Unplug the connector at the switch.

Using the BODY SIDE WIRING CONNECTOR for the switch

Short the hot wire (Dark Blue/yellow) via jumper, to the each of the following:
Tan
Lt Green
Lt Blue

This will test everything but the switch. Use your muli-meter to test the switch."

I feel like they're getting a little impatient haha, could anyone tell me how to exactly short the hot wire via jumper? Thanks