AF/X LONGTUBE!!

01rtgurl · Post by **01rtgurl** » Tue Aug 14, 2007 12:37 pm

Ok guys when I installed my longtube I couldn't get the car jacked up high enough to get it under and up so I yanked the k-member because I was replacing it anyways.

Fast forward to today, I am taking the header off. It's up on the lift and it doesn't want to come out. Has ANYONE done a longtube install w/o removing the k-member and if so, how?

Thanks in advance,

-jess

SGT BRAD · Post by **SGT BRAD** » Tue Aug 14, 2007 1:07 pm

jess,
i was able to pull the tti out w/o any trouble. the ff that i have is longer to the collector. i wonder if it has to do with collector length. hmmm... sorry i couldn't be of more help. you could always cut off the collector

INVUJerry · Post by **INVUJerry** » Tue Aug 14, 2007 4:02 pm

It's kinda rusting there anyway lol.

Unbolt it from the head, and from the exhaust, then lower the car and pull it out through the engine bay.

01rtgurl · Post by **01rtgurl** » Tue Aug 14, 2007 5:22 pm

Hmmmmmmmmmm. okay. I'll go try to pull it out. I don't think there's enough room at the top at all tho, I remember last time trying to get it in through there. Weird.

INVUJerry · Post by **INVUJerry** » Tue Aug 14, 2007 5:26 pm

Hmm, I managed to put my short tube header, and cat system down through the engine bay, however, my 95's hood will flip completely up.

01rtgurl · Post by **01rtgurl** » Tue Aug 14, 2007 5:32 pm

invujerry wrote:Hmm, I managed to put my short tube header, and cat system down through the engine bay, however, my 95's hood will flip completely up.

It's not that the hood is in the way, there isn't physically enough space between the back of the engine and where my hood rests on the firewall area. Hrmm wtf. There is a big black box mounted to the top of my firewall. That can probably be taken off somehow. just looks like electronics

03blackrt · Post by **03blackrt** » Tue Aug 14, 2007 6:06 pm

You'll have to take it out though the top. The 'black box' is the vaccum resivour for the cruise control; you'll have to remove that to take the header out. It has two studs with nuts that are accesed from under the black cowl trim. The coilpack will need to be removed too.

01rtgurl · Post by **01rtgurl** » Tue Aug 14, 2007 6:17 pm

Ok. That's what I was looking for--thanks!!

white2000neon · Post by **white2000neon** » Tue Aug 14, 2007 9:02 pm

I had to take my fastfab out through the bottom. I just put the car on ramps and that was high enough to get it out.

kc2005ptgt · Post by **kc2005ptgt** » Wed Aug 15, 2007 12:56 pm

I installed my FFv1 through the top, but I had to remove the coolant reservoir (actually, off to the side) and unbolt both the top and lower torque struts, that let the engine drop about 4 inches which was plenty of room to get it in

Should help for the reverse as well I would assume.

blue demon02 · Post by **blue demon02** » Thu Aug 23, 2007 12:45 pm

Did my AFX through the bottom. You will run into the shifter cables but sense you will have to move them anyway to install the AFX might as well do it first. And the coolent overflow well either need some heat shield or be moved. the header will melt it. (Been there done that) Also speaking from experiance having one or two exhaust bolt studs will make the install 100 times easier. AS far as clearence with the K-FRame after the instal it will probely rub, two thinggs can be done. Loosen all engin mount bolts tilt engine ass far forward as you can have buddy hold it then re-tighten all engien mount bolts. Secand thing is stuffing the motor mounts is a must with the AFX, if you don't it will eventualy wear a hole in the header. (Been there done that too)