Audio Setup:
Head Unit: Sony CDXM-750 10A Fused
Subs: Sony P5 10" 4Ohm
Amp: Kicker IX405D 6 Channel Amp Current draw 60A
Lead Power Wire 4GA Fused 80A
Audiopipe 1Farad Cap
All ground wires under the hood have been changed as well as the battery terminals.
Problem:
Subs work then die. I crank up the volume they come back on . Then turn off again.. This amp is a 2 stage amp where as there is a 4 channel amp and a 2 channel bridgeable sub amp all in one. If there is not enough current the sub side will shut off. My hypothesis is bad battery? Oh BTW it cuts off if i have it running 4Ohm stereo or 2Ohm Mono.
Ideas ? Comments ? Suggestions?
Got a question for the gurus.
First thing, take out the cap until you have an upgraded alternator. It doesn't really do much after the first 10 seconds of power draw. It's possible the cap can damage an older battery with heavy draw. When you have an upgraded alternator the capacitor will help filter the line for spikes. A good amplifier will not need the filter though. There are tons of reasons why and why nots that I could detail about capacitors... but I'm not going to get into that just now. Your amp could also be the problem. I don't know if this will solve the problem or just get you one step closer to figuring it out.
Disconnect the subs and hook up an ohm meter to it checking the voltage output from the speaker out of the bridged mono sub output. It should stay constant with a test tone. If it cuts out then note the voltage output when it comes back on. I'm thinking it has to do with a bad joint somewhere. Next step, barrow an amp (preferrably an A/B class amp as they have the most draw) and hook it up. Do the same with the barrowed amp for the subs only. If my theory is right, you shouldn't have a problem. If that's the case, you should contact Kicker for warranty work.
If you still have problems on the other amp, the problem is in the alternator or battery. If the problem happens when the car is off or on, it's the battery.
Disconnect the subs and hook up an ohm meter to it checking the voltage output from the speaker out of the bridged mono sub output. It should stay constant with a test tone. If it cuts out then note the voltage output when it comes back on. I'm thinking it has to do with a bad joint somewhere. Next step, barrow an amp (preferrably an A/B class amp as they have the most draw) and hook it up. Do the same with the barrowed amp for the subs only. If my theory is right, you shouldn't have a problem. If that's the case, you should contact Kicker for warranty work.
If you still have problems on the other amp, the problem is in the alternator or battery. If the problem happens when the car is off or on, it's the battery.
