NeonOn19s-01 R/T - Clearing CEL codes.....
- SRT-Wannabe
- 2GN Member
- Posts: 110
- Joined: Mon Jun 18, 2007 3:52 pm
- Location: houston, tx
- SRT-Wannabe
- 2GN Member
- Posts: 110
- Joined: Mon Jun 18, 2007 3:52 pm
- Location: houston, tx
I still think that the spolier is the best part of the car. I don't think that I would change that ever.SRT-Wannabe wrote:damn dude the car looks sexy since i last seen it. i miss my spoiler! i am starting to see alot of neons with it now
I might try to work on it a bit over the weekend. Still not sure though.
| Nathan |

Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon til it Dies" Club Member # 72
Semper Fi!!! USMC

Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon til it Dies" Club Member # 72
Semper Fi!!! USMC
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supertrick_05
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- Location: Duluth, MN
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LilSparkPlug
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- Joined: Thu Jan 10, 2008 4:49 pm
- Location: RI
They charged you extra because it's a three step process. You need a base, a mid coat and a clear top coat just like paint only it's with power. Even if they chose against the clear and just used the two coats, it's still alot more work than a single color. You have to prep it, put the first color on bake it to a certain temperature and while the piece is at that temperature coat it a second time and then a third.....
they charged me 85 for a valve cover, 30 for the rear sway and 35 front sway. Total 150 bucks, and additonal 60 for the additonal charge. then with tax on top of it came to 235.LilSparkPlug wrote:They charged you extra because it's a three step process. You need a base, a mid coat and a clear top coat just like paint only it's with power. Even if they chose against the clear and just used the two coats, it's still alot more work than a single color. You have to prep it, put the first color on bake it to a certain temperature and while the piece is at that temperature coat it a second time and then a third.....
I'm looking for another PC in the area to finish up when I get $$$ to spend on the car again...
| Nathan |

Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon til it Dies" Club Member # 72
Semper Fi!!! USMC

Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon til it Dies" Club Member # 72
Semper Fi!!! USMC
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LilSparkPlug
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Yeah they look good, I just want this damn car done...
LOL
I was able to get the roll over valve ( return fitting) in place on the tank last weekend, and going to work with the oil pan I hope this weekend since I have the uni-bit to mess with. I'm still trying to figure how I'm going to mount it to the oil pan, but I think that I'll figure something out. I will try to keep this thread going as best as I can, I've been working out of town for the last 3 weeks and taking care of things around the house on the weekends, which leaves me no time to mess with the car. I promise that I will keep this project going.
LOL
I was able to get the roll over valve ( return fitting) in place on the tank last weekend, and going to work with the oil pan I hope this weekend since I have the uni-bit to mess with. I'm still trying to figure how I'm going to mount it to the oil pan, but I think that I'll figure something out. I will try to keep this thread going as best as I can, I've been working out of town for the last 3 weeks and taking care of things around the house on the weekends, which leaves me no time to mess with the car. I promise that I will keep this project going.
| Nathan |

Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon til it Dies" Club Member # 72
Semper Fi!!! USMC

Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon til it Dies" Club Member # 72
Semper Fi!!! USMC
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LilSparkPlug
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- Joined: Thu Jan 10, 2008 4:49 pm
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Swing on up any time really..
Well I took some pics of the car, and did a little bit of work, not much though...
Here is the roll over return line installed, and its a -8 fitting and the rest of my lines are going to -6, soooo... I have to get a reducer at my local speed shop, and need to find me a place to get fuel lines that don't come in only 3 foot sections...

I also took a uni-bit to the oil pan to make for the return line, and now I'm kinda torn if I should drill the other two holes and bolt it to the oil pan, or find someone that can weld the fitting to the oil pan. If I weld, then I need to modify the fitting, and if I bolt, then need to make a gasket so it won't leak...
main hole drilled.. and bolt area mocked up.

What it should fit on the pan..

and what it should look like once I figure out what I need to do next

So here I am again at a stand still. I also am trying to figure if I should do the cooliant "T" or try to get another hard line and drill and thread a 1/4" NPT in it to run the lines....

What you all think???
Well I took some pics of the car, and did a little bit of work, not much though...
Here is the roll over return line installed, and its a -8 fitting and the rest of my lines are going to -6, soooo... I have to get a reducer at my local speed shop, and need to find me a place to get fuel lines that don't come in only 3 foot sections...

I also took a uni-bit to the oil pan to make for the return line, and now I'm kinda torn if I should drill the other two holes and bolt it to the oil pan, or find someone that can weld the fitting to the oil pan. If I weld, then I need to modify the fitting, and if I bolt, then need to make a gasket so it won't leak...
main hole drilled.. and bolt area mocked up.

What it should fit on the pan..

and what it should look like once I figure out what I need to do next

So here I am again at a stand still. I also am trying to figure if I should do the cooliant "T" or try to get another hard line and drill and thread a 1/4" NPT in it to run the lines....

What you all think???
| Nathan |

Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon til it Dies" Club Member # 72
Semper Fi!!! USMC

Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon til it Dies" Club Member # 72
Semper Fi!!! USMC
Are you talking about the last picture??sxxxt wrote:i love pictures, even if your not sure what they are, a progress log is supposed to have pictures lol. keep up the good work.
If so, this was my idea of getting my cooliant lines connected to the heater lines, but the fitting that I made it huge, and might kink the flex heater line. So I'm trying to figure if I should modify the 'hard line" ( from the water pump to the heater flex hose) by cutting the Hard line back a 1/2" to 3/4" so it won't put that big of a kink in the line or not.
The other idea is to find me another hard line and try to get a 1/4" barb NPT onto it and then just connect. Both will take some time to figure out, but though I would get some feedback onto what everyone else thought.
Also if anyone has done the SRT turbo swap onto a 2.0, how did you get the cooliant lines connected from the engine to the turbo. I'm willing to do what ever, ( as long as it isn't too expensive )
| Nathan |

Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon til it Dies" Club Member # 72
Semper Fi!!! USMC

Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon til it Dies" Club Member # 72
Semper Fi!!! USMC
I thought that there might be a plastic "T" fitting that I could use, just not sure if they make it up to 3/8" hose. That is the size of the heater hose going to the fire wall, I woulld like that idea if I could find some.ejclide wrote:if it were me I would just use a plastic T fitting. Part store should have one, and it would be black so it wouldn't be extremely obvious. But then again, I'm not 100% sure how you're running the line, so just take that as a suggestion from an uninformed non turbo driving loser....
| Nathan |

Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon til it Dies" Club Member # 72
Semper Fi!!! USMC

Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon til it Dies" Club Member # 72
Semper Fi!!! USMC
dont know if this will help, but maybe u can make it work.
heres the link to this t-fitting
http://tinyurl.com/c8wuxt
heres the link to this t-fitting
http://tinyurl.com/c8wuxt
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