Stalling in an AUTO!

Questions about axles, transmissions, differentials, pretty much anything that connects the engine to the wheels, this is the place for those questions.
unleashedcc
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Stalling in an AUTO!

Post by unleashedcc » Mon Oct 08, 2007 9:28 pm

MY CAR auto 02
I have a few problem, lets see if someone can point at me in the right direction. When I'm at a light in (D) my car appears to idle low and it starts shaking a lot like its about to stall.
I have done, transmission, power steering, radiator flushes, use reg gas, use semi synthetic oil, using iridium spark plugs. Also I've noticed numbers on my engine block as well as my transmission block, like junk yard parts ??? :( my title is clean, I bought it in a dealer at 42k, it's always had massive lag, way more than my girls 02, no signs of crashes either. My light for low gas does not work for some reason. the problem of power comes and goes, its not continuously.

MY GIRLS 02 auto

It stalled the other day when she was backing up. She was parked, put it in (R) and boom, it shook a lot then it turned off. She says at lights she has to put it in (N) so the rpms go back up, at a stop it idles below 5rpms, then when you place it in (N) then back to (D) it idles at 7.5rpms. ANYONE???? lol

Is it a common problem, anything could help. Ive done fuel pressure checks and its normal, I did a compression test by removing each spark plug and i get 160psi all the way through. no codes.

Someone please help
-Dres

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Post by dblsg » Mon Oct 08, 2007 10:43 pm

have you tried playing with the throttle body?
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Post by unleashedcc » Tue Oct 09, 2007 1:21 am

yea i had to replace the TBS once on my car, other than that, what do you mean by play with it; could I change the angle?
-Dres

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Post by aperson » Tue Oct 09, 2007 1:43 am

Torque converter isn't unlocking. Or the idle is set too low. What do you mean 5rpms and 7.5 rpms? Is that hundred or thousand?
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Post by unleashedcc » Tue Oct 09, 2007 7:43 am

I'm sorry, 500 rpm and 750 rpm. If its the idle, how do i go about resetting it. I know I lag way to much, like my rpms are on the floor whenever I take off. As far as the torque converter, the fact that is a transmission part, how could i check it or be certain that it could be part of the problem.
-Dres

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Post by aperson » Tue Oct 09, 2007 12:18 pm

The idle sounds fine, I'm not sure how the 3 spd unlocks the converter though. Last time you changed the air filter? Check that first Check o2 sensors, if your foot is on the floor when you take off normally to get it moving that sounds to me as if the air fuel ratio is off if the air filter is good.
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Re: Stalling in an AUTO!

Post by freerider » Tue Oct 09, 2007 12:19 pm

unleashedcc wrote:MY CAR auto 02
I have a few problem, lets see if someone can point at me in the right direction. When I'm at a light in (D) my car appears to idle low and it starts shaking a lot like its about to stall.
I have done, transmission, power steering, radiator flushes, use reg gas, use semi synthetic oil, using iridium spark plugs. Also I've noticed numbers on my engine block as well as my transmission block, like junk yard parts ??? :( my title is clean, I bought it in a dealer at 42k, it's always had massive lag, way more than my girls 02, no signs of crashes either. My light for low gas does not work for some reason. the problem of power comes and goes, its not continuously.

MY GIRLS 02 auto

It stalled the other day when she was backing up. She was parked, put it in (R) and boom, it shook a lot then it turned off. She says at lights she has to put it in (N) so the rpms go back up, at a stop it idles below 5rpms, then when you place it in (N) then back to (D) it idles at 7.5rpms. ANYONE???? lol

Is it a common problem, anything could help. Ive done fuel pressure checks and its normal, I did a compression test by removing each spark plug and i get 160psi all the way through. no codes.

Someone please help

Your neon:

Believe it or not... stock dodge neon ECU's actually tell the engine to idle roughly around 500-750 to conserve gas at idle. Its HORRIBLE to think about. It happens to all auto owners. Just tap the gas while holding the break and it should stay at a constant 1k-900 rpms.

Your girls neon:

It could be anything... anything ranging from:

Bad Sensors
Confused ECU
Something wrong with the engine (then again it would be hardly driving at all if this was the case).

Take hers in to get it looked at if you still have warrantee. If not, i would probably take it in anyway.
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Post by occasional demons » Thu Oct 11, 2007 12:22 pm

You could also try removing the IAC valve to see if it's carboned up. It should be relatively clean unless there is alot of oil/smoke coming through pcv... It's just two screws and if you disconnect the wire make sure key is off or you'll get a cel.
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Post by 01NeonSnooZer » Thu Oct 11, 2007 3:04 pm

aperson wrote:Torque converter isn't unlocking. Or the idle is set too low. What do you mean 5rpms and 7.5 rpms? Is that hundred or thousand?
You beat me to it. I was gonna say TTC lockup was't disengaging. Either that or the load sensing switch that adds fuel and ramps up timing for increased load isn't working but that one's more far fetched. You might check the idle speed control valve but i doubt it would only act up in "D". If I think of anything else I'll let you know.
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Post by occasional demons » Thu Oct 11, 2007 7:12 pm

If the TC lockup wasn't disengaging the car would lurch like an MTX trying to stop in gear w/clutch engaged there would be no slipping. N to reverse or drive would be harsh as hell.
Bill
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.

2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap

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Post by 01NeonSnooZer » Thu Oct 11, 2007 8:33 pm

Or it would slip. The TCC isn't there for transmitting full eninge power. It's just there to make the torque convertor 1:1 and get rid of the slight difference in input and output (couldn't think of proper terminology). My car IS an MTX and if I let off th clutch the car only lurches if my foot is off the brake pedal. Since he is stopping, his foot IS on the brake so its just gonna die.
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Post by pandevida85 » Fri Oct 12, 2007 1:19 am

i had a similar problem with another car but that was caused by the A/C compressor turning on and off (long story short messed up drier and moisture in the system).

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Post by 01NeonSnooZer » Fri Oct 12, 2007 11:46 am

that would do it. A/C clutch engaged and compressor locking up would cause the eninge to at least stumble and slip the belt really bad. You get any squealing or belt burning when that happened?
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Post by kevo » Sat Oct 13, 2007 11:00 am

you both are suffering from idle undershoot. this is very common. The best thing to do is clean your iac with some throttle cleaner. if that doesn't work you will need to get your ecu reflashed. Chrysler has covered this issue in a Technical service bulletin and updated firmware for the ECU.

I am suffering from the same problem here, just haven't had time to take it to a dealership.

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Post by 01NeonSnooZer » Sat Oct 13, 2007 2:31 pm

^ doesn't happen to MTXs?
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Post by kevo » Sun Oct 14, 2007 11:16 am

01NeonSnooZer wrote:^ doesn't happen to MTXs?
happends to all of them. i have the service bulletin just in case you guys want to view it or print it out.

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Post by 01NeonSnooZer » Sun Oct 14, 2007 6:01 pm

Please, please, post it up. I'd like to know what's happening if i starts. I would also like to know what year models are affected. I wanna be able to nip it in the butt should it pop it's uggy head up.
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Post by occasional demons » Sun Oct 14, 2007 8:54 pm

01NeonSnooZer wrote:Or it would slip. The TCC isn't there for transmitting full eninge power. It's just there to make the torque convertor 1:1 and get rid of the slight difference in input and output (couldn't think of proper terminology). My car IS an MTX and if I let off th clutch the car only lurches if my foot is off the brake pedal. Since he is stopping, his foot IS on the brake so its just gonna die.
You don't give that lockup clutch enough credit. jump some power to the wire someday and find out how much that sucker holds. What they are intended for and what they can be used for are two different worlds.
Bill
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.

2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap

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Post by 01NeonSnooZer » Mon Oct 15, 2007 11:27 am

You're probably right about that.

But like I said, My car is an MTX and if my foot is on the brake when I let off the clutch, it won't lurch forward. It'll just shudder quickly and die in place so I'm betting that's about what is happenin to him.....if it's the TCC at all.
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Post by occasional demons » Mon Oct 15, 2007 12:42 pm

A quick test would be to remove the AIC and slip some scotch tape under the plunger and bring it up on the triangle shaped side so that the gasket will hold it in place and bolt it together, the tape will give it enough air to idle higher but wont damage any seals. If it's anything but idle undershoot you'll know. Just be ready to kick it in "N" if you need to stop! You can either leave it plugged in and turn the key to run (it will open it for starting) or use a pick with a 90* bend to push the plunger back. The key on method would prolly be the easiest.
Bill
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.

2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap

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Post by kevo » Mon Oct 15, 2007 8:33 pm

01NeonSnooZer wrote:Please, please, post it up. I'd like to know what's happening if i starts. I would also like to know what year models are affected. I wanna be able to nip it in the butt should it pop it's uggy head up.
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Post by unleashedcc » Mon Oct 15, 2007 8:42 pm

well she stalled going in R last night. She dropped it in R and before she gave it gas BOOM car off!!! All this ideas sound really nice but could anyone tell me how i go about testing and doing some of the things everyones talkin bout.
-Dres

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Post by kc2005ptgt » Tue Oct 16, 2007 1:47 pm

you know, oddly enough, my wife's elantra does this, and only when it has been sitting over night. So, she now sits for about 30 seconds before going and it does not happen to her. :?
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Post by kevo » Fri Oct 19, 2007 10:49 am

unleashedcc wrote:well she stalled going in R last night. She dropped it in R and before she gave it gas BOOM car off!!! All this ideas sound really nice but could anyone tell me how i go about testing and doing some of the things everyones talkin bout.
bring your car over bro. Just cleaned my IAC and it was pretty dirty. Reinstalled it and my idle skyrocketed to 1200 RPM. After about 2 minutes, the ecu adjusted it and it went back to normal. I really haven't driven it yet but this could help.

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Post by kc2005ptgt » Fri Oct 19, 2007 12:42 pm

I am gonna move this over to the tranny since this is about an AUTO stalling.
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Re: Stalling in an AUTO!

Post by iskyfly » Wed May 06, 2009 3:10 pm

freerider wrote:

Your neon:

Believe it or not... stock dodge neon ECU's actually tell the engine to idle roughly around 500-750 to conserve gas at idle. Its HORRIBLE to think about.
why is that horrible to think about?

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Post by INVUJerry » Wed May 06, 2009 3:58 pm

Because it causes the car to want to stall. Also, you bumped a year and a half year old post.
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Post by iskyfly » Wed May 06, 2009 4:36 pm

invujerry wrote:Because it causes the car to want to stall.
but it doesnt stall
Also, you bumped a year and a half year old post.
and?

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Post by Donkeypuncher » Wed May 06, 2009 7:46 pm

I would definitely start by cleaning the IAC, that would account for these symptoms.

I ended up drilling a small hole in the throttle plate to fix this low idle problem. This was recommended by a chrysler engineer that worked on the neon platform. I haven't had to blip the throttle ever since it happened, but the a/c still makes it idle rough.

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Post by occasional demons » Wed May 06, 2009 11:33 pm

iskyfly wrote:
freerider wrote:

Your neon:

Believe it or not... stock dodge neon ECU's actually tell the engine to idle roughly around 500-750 to conserve gas at idle. Its HORRIBLE to think about.
why is that horrible to think about?

iskyfly wrote:
invujerry wrote:Because it causes the car to want to stall.
but it doesnt stall
Also, you bumped a year and a half year old post.
and?
And what's your point?

Please don't bump old threads unless you have a real question, or someting informative to add.
Bill
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.

2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap

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