Daaboots needs you! Rear sway bar bracket adapter.

daaboots · Post by **daaboots** » Tue Oct 09, 2007 12:08 pm

As some of you know, I make an adapter bracket that allows you to use a rear sway bar with your existing non R/T struts. Info can be found here http://forum.2gn.org/viewtopic.php?t=19840

I want to make a bracket out of 1/8 inch steel instead of 1/4 inch steel and I need someone to test the product for strength. If you feel you would make a good candidate for this test, please PM me. Preference will be given to existing customers.

I will provide the brackets at no charge but you will be required to cover the shipping fees. There will be no warranty if the brackets break but I would offer a good deal on the full size brackets if something were to go wrong. You will be required to take pictures of the installation and provide detailed information regarding the performance of the brackets. I will require you to install the brackets within a two week period after receiving the brackets.

Let me know if you are interested.

fixitmattman · Post by **fixitmattman** » Tue Oct 09, 2007 2:48 pm

I'm not gonna lie, those brackets look like ass and aren't designed so hot to take a bending load. Probably the only reason why they work in the first place is because you've used 1/4" material. You can drop to 1/8" material in some places, but not others. If you made that whole thing out of 1/8" material, it may take a stock sway bar, but I doubt it would last very long with anything aftermarket. To go to 1/8" material I would be doing a complete re-design of the bracket.

daaboots · Post by **daaboots** » Tue Oct 09, 2007 3:03 pm

fixitmattman wrote:I'm not gonna lie, those brackets look like ass...

Thanks man... you're welcome to make something better with a budget as small as I have and the price I've been selling these for.

fixitmattman · Post by **fixitmattman** » Tue Oct 09, 2007 7:16 pm

No thanks. Don't get me wrong, I can make a superior bracket, keep the costs relatively close, but the margin isn't there for me. I looked into making a few parts once and it wasn't worth my time to build and sell parts.

deep1ca · Post by **deep1ca** » Tue Oct 09, 2007 10:56 pm

Im thinking about it, I know patrick with the silver srt4 can give me a r/t sway bar for like $20

I heard you got the better one from him lol.

daaboots · Post by **daaboots** » Wed Oct 10, 2007 8:18 am

deep1ca wrote:Im thinking about it, I know patrick with the silver srt4 can give me a r/t sway bar for like $20

I heard you got the better one from him lol.

Yeah ok. That would probably work out well since you're local.

Patrick sold me his old 19mm rear sway bar and then realized his SRT-4 only had a 17mm

Poor guy.

dblsg · Post by **dblsg** » Wed Oct 10, 2007 2:14 pm

i wanna see how they would work with a bagged neon... the front sway bar is hooked up to the lower control arms... so i'm wondering how it would work in the rear. i have a rear srt sway bar sitting in my garage

Post by **racer12306** » Wed Oct 10, 2007 7:44 pm

What would happen if these were to break?

Would it be a catastrophic failure, ie car accident on the highway?

or

Would the bar just chill there until it was removed?

fixitmattman · Post by **fixitmattman** » Wed Oct 10, 2007 8:15 pm

For complete failure there would be a loud popping noise followed by "gee, my rear end is kinda sluggish now." It would be like there is no bar there anymore. If you keep your eye on them you'll see them bend before hand.

daaboots · Post by **daaboots** » Thu Oct 11, 2007 7:36 am

racer12306 wrote:What would happen if these were to break?

Would it be a catastrophic failure, ie car accident on the highway?

or

Would the bar just chill there until it was removed?

No. The only way you would have a catastrophic failure is if the two bolts holding the bracket and the strut to the knuckle were to both break at the exact same time. If my brackets were to break, the bar would just hang there.

fixitmattman · Post by **fixitmattman** » Thu Oct 11, 2007 12:13 pm

The bolts are definately not the weak link here, won't even come close to breaking there first. It's the cantilevered portion where the bar mounts that's going to break first, especially if you go to 1/8th.