Short throw question real quick

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Short throw question real quick

Post by Fuzzyneon » Tue Nov 27, 2007 11:14 pm

i just install my maddog 80% redux 1 inch drop shifter it seems to take more muscle to get it in and out of gear is this normal with the short throw? i dont mind it just wanna make sure its supposed to be this way Lol

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Post by racer12306 » Tue Nov 27, 2007 11:18 pm

This is the way I would look at it...

A shorter throw shifter as well as the rod height reduction has a smaller lever than a standard shifter. So there would be less mechanical advantage to help with the short throw shifter.

Less mechanical advantage = more effort needed.

Thats the way I would see it. Don't know if it's right or not
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Post by nate-00neon » Tue Nov 27, 2007 11:24 pm

no that sounds right and makes sense if you think about it.
for a rusted bolt...do u take a short handled wrench or a really long one?
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Post by TN.Frank » Tue Nov 27, 2007 11:26 pm

LOL, after driving my '04 Dodge Ram for 3 years the shift throw on a stock Neon shifter feels short to me. I just went with Booger Bushing on my stock shifter and installed a new shift knob that didn't stick up as far as the stock one and it feels real nice now.
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Post by OB » Tue Nov 27, 2007 11:30 pm

You got it exactly right Frankie. Almost any shifter uses mechanical advantage. Also known as the 'fulcrum' or 'teeter totter' effect, the shifter uses two shafts; one on either side of a pivot point. Raising the pivot point and lowering the upper shaft will decrease the throw of the shifter when measured from the tip of the upper shaft (at the knob, where it counts). Essentially, this allows more linkage movement with less input movement. The opposite is also true.

A good STS will maintain the OEM linkage geometry as well, preventing bindage and future issues. This is accomplished by attaching the linkage to the shift levers at the same point as stock. If the new levers are higher than the linkage, the linkage is forced to bend a bit and shift quality and effectiveness may suffer.
-Derek

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Post by Fuzzyneon » Tue Nov 27, 2007 11:37 pm

yeah i osund dumb but just wanted ot check lol it makes perfect sence now :-p thanks guys i feel real (dumb) smart lol
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Post by racer12306 » Tue Nov 27, 2007 11:58 pm

Wow, the last person to call me Frankie was my grandfather when he was alive and that was 8 years ago.

:lol:
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Post by OB » Wed Nov 28, 2007 12:05 am

Sorry to hear about that frank. I have a habit of using nicknames and abbreviations for peoples names. Frankie has a nice ring to it, dont you think?

fuzzy - no such thing as a stupid question in this community. Glad we could help ;)
-Derek

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Post by racer12306 » Wed Nov 28, 2007 12:14 am

It's all good. He passed away a while ago like I said. One thing I do wish is that he was alive to see me get married. We did a lot of stuff when I was little.
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Post by MoxHair » Wed Nov 28, 2007 1:02 am

80% STS Owns all of yous!!!!!!!!

Mine is very easy to shift and makes driving more enjoyable. I recently went test driving of new cars and their shifters alone made me hate driving them. I barely have to move mine and it goes right into gear.
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Post by 03blackrt » Wed Nov 28, 2007 1:04 am

racer12306 wrote: Less mechanical advantage = more effort needed.
Same amount of work... just more force over shorter distance. So it appears to take more effort to put into gear.

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Post by OB » Wed Nov 28, 2007 1:13 am

More force is more work in human terms :thumbup: :lol:
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Post by Fuzzyneon » Wed Nov 28, 2007 2:16 am

OB wrote:More force is more work in human terms :thumbup: :lol:
Lol good thing im an andriod :owned:

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Re: Short throw question real quick

Post by evilneon02 » Wed Nov 28, 2007 7:03 am

Fuzzyneon wrote:i just install my maddog 80% redux 1 inch drop shifter it seems to take more muscle to get it in and out of gear is this normal with the short throw? i dont mind it just wanna make sure its supposed to be this way Lol

it will be like that for a little while until you get use to it i too have the 80% 1in shorter with booger bushings and cradle bushing and mine was hard as hell to get in to gear and some times i would miss the gear when i was tryin to speed shift but now i have no problem it smooth shifting it just takes some getting use to.

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Post by BlackRoseRacing » Wed Nov 28, 2007 7:07 am

My STS owns all :lol:
JohhnyM bushings, Boogers, and a DIY STS :)
Speed shifting does suck, sometimes I cant grab 2nd gear :lol:
Launch in 1st......
Grind 2nd and come to a slow roll........ :owned:

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Post by occasional demons » Wed Nov 28, 2007 7:30 am

nate-00neon wrote:no that sounds right and makes sense if you think about it.
for a rusted bolt...do u take a short handled wrench or a really long one?
Torches, penetrating oil, and impact gun. Oh, wait a minute that isn't good for the tranny! :beatstick:
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Post by nate-00neon » Wed Nov 28, 2007 10:45 am

occasional demons wrote:
nate-00neon wrote:no that sounds right and makes sense if you think about it.
for a rusted bolt...do u take a short handled wrench or a really long one?
Torches, penetrating oil, and impact gun. Oh, wait a minute that isn't good for the tranny! :beatstick:
lol thats not what i was talking about...that was just an example for where you need leverage. had nothing to do with the tranny lol :beatstick:

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Post by evilneon02 » Wed Nov 28, 2007 5:06 pm

did you reset the shift cable

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Post by racer12306 » Wed Nov 28, 2007 5:10 pm

reset the shift cable? never heard of that.
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Post by bone-yard-racing » Wed Nov 28, 2007 5:20 pm

Be careful guys, the STS makes you want to shift harder causing more wear on the synchronizers.
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Post by evilneon02 » Wed Nov 28, 2007 11:14 pm

racer12306 wrote:reset the shift cable? never heard of that.

after you put the shifter in. put it in 3rd or 4th then on the driver side under the shifter base theres a hex head bolt you loosen it and let the cable/rod adjust it self then tighten the bolt back

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Post by BlackRoseRacing » Thu Nov 29, 2007 6:51 am

I thought that was more for adhusting the neutral gate.....

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Post by racer12306 » Thu Nov 29, 2007 10:25 am

I know I did not reset the cable when I put my current shifter in. It's just an OEM SRT shifter.
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Post by nate-00neon » Thu Nov 29, 2007 10:41 am

im getting the mopar sts for my 2000 neon will i need to reset teh cable?
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Post by racer12306 » Thu Nov 29, 2007 10:46 am

I doubt it. What you can do is check the how to's ( i think there is one, probably by OB) and see whats in there.
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Post by nate-00neon » Thu Nov 29, 2007 11:25 am

okay
i looked and i found it, thanks a lot :)
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Post by Fuzzyneon » Thu Nov 29, 2007 1:36 pm

[quote="bone-yard-racing"]Be careful guys, the STS makes you want to shift harder causing more wear on the synchronizers.[/quote
Yeah but i still baby my car =D]

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Post by OB » Thu Nov 29, 2007 6:13 pm

Ive played with the adjustment of the left linkage as well, but found minimal difference in shift feel and or operation. I made adjustments in both 1st and Neutral, but didnt try the other gears. Ill check into that. Might help clear up my recent issue (notchier shift feel than usual). I think it might have something to do with the trans fluid im using right now, but thats a project for another day when I can afford to change it again.
-Derek

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Post by occasional demons » Thu Nov 29, 2007 10:05 pm

nate-00neon wrote:
occasional demons wrote:
nate-00neon wrote:no that sounds right and makes sense if you think about it.
for a rusted bolt...do u take a short handled wrench or a really long one?
Torches, penetrating oil, and impact gun. Oh, wait a minute that isn't good for the tranny! :beatstick:
lol thats not what i was talking about...that was just an example for where you need leverage. had nothing to do with the tranny lol :beatstick:
+98

:shock: :rofl:
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Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.

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1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap

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Post by evilneon02 » Fri Nov 30, 2007 10:20 am

when i bought my srt4 sts for my sxt from maddog the instrutions said the loosen the bolt and reset the cable. i guess its b/c the 80% reduced changed the pull and push of that cable im guessing. i know when i did mine it moved about 1/4 of an inch.

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