How to: Aftermarket Steering Wheel Change

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01NeonR/T
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How to: Aftermarket Steering Wheel Change

Post by 01NeonR/T » Wed Dec 19, 2007 6:45 pm

I figured since there was not a lot of info out there on doing a Steering Wheel change, I'd take pictures and do a comprehensive How-To on it. Like the title says, this is for aftermarket steering wheels only. I do not know how to get a PT wheel to fit, and there is already a thread somewhere on how to get an 03+ into 00-02 cars. This was done on a 2001 Neon. This also includes a guide on how to wire up the Horn for this particular car.

Tools Needed: Phillips and flathead screwdriver, Socket wrench, 8mm socket, 13mm socket, Short extension. Steering Wheel Puller (optional). A couple of Allen wrenches or Hex bits for the new wheel (if they didn't come with the hub or quick release). I needed a 5mm and a 3mm, but yours may vary. Extra wire and some quick connects. Pair of wire strippers. Electrical Tape.

First, figure out what kind of Steering wheel you want to put on there. For now, I have a "JDM" steering wheel that looks like one of the Momo wheels. I have an OMP and a Sparco wheel on their way to me as this is written. There is quite a bit of background as to what adapter to use.

Okay, there's quite a bit of info surrounding this part. Depending on the bolt pattern on the aftermarket wheel you are going to use will determine what type of adapter you will need. If yours is the typical Momo/Sparco 6-bolt (2.75in or 70mm hole diameter, center to center of screw holes)), then you need a Momo Adapter or something similar. If you have the slightly Larger Nardi bolt pattern, or the Grant 5-screw pattern, you will need an adapter or universal screw pattern that fits your application. The Momo adapter part number is 2401 for the Neon. However, I didn't like the look and was thinking about purchasing an Isotta adapter (same as Momo, but prettier) which is part number BX 5420C. That sucker costs about $130 though. What I noticed is that the types of cars the 2401 and 5420C fit varied from Jeeps to older GM cars and such. I took a chance and I looked around for cheaper alternatives and found some on eBay. Basically if it fits the older GM/Jeep hubs, it can fit the Neon. I bought my hub adapter off eBay for about $40, and it fits Grant 5-hole and Momo 6-hole only. Although the Quick release (another $40) bottom half fits only Momo 6-hole, but the top half fits both Momo and Nardi 6-hole patterns.

Be warned though, in addition to you airbag light going on, you WILL need an extender of sorts (or a spaced out/deep dish wheel) or else the wiper and turn stalks will be too close to the wheel. I am spacing mine out with a Quick-Release adapter kit. This may be where a random "Telescoping" adapter helps (but that only fits certain Grant Wheels), but I'd rather do a quick release or buy an extender hub. You might also lose the ability of the turn signals to turn themselves off. I think this function it is built into the clockspring (which must be removed). I also believe you will lose the ability to lock the wheel without the key in when turned too far. I am not sure why, but I think it has something to do with the clockspring again. I lost all these functions when I installed my wheel. And if you don't know, use a resistor to jumper the airbag switch to turn off that light. Note: the function that turns off the signal is a simple lever piece that clicks off the turn signal when you turn the wheel. If I have time I'll go back and try to make something to fit to regain that function, but for now, I just turn it off manually.

Now that you decided on what you want to use, let's get to work. First you need to remove the old steering wheel.

First take off the Cruise Control buttons (if so equipped) using a Phillips screwdriver:
Image

After that, remove the wiring clips from the buttons. I used a flathead when removing all clips, as it lessens the chance of the clip breaking. Then, using the 8mm Socket, unscrew the bolts on each side holding the airbag in place:
Image

You should now be able to easily pull the airbag out. I removed the wired on the back by slightly turning the clip clockwise and pulling it out. However, I believe it broke something. If someone has better experience in this area, let me know.

Anyhow, you should be able to see the center hub. Take the 13mm socket wrench and extension and unscrew the center bolt holding the wheel on. At this point you can use a steering wheel puller, but I just gave it a few tugs and wiggled the wheel left and right and it popped off. Be careful you don't hit yourself in the face or rip any wires when doing this.

Now you have to remove the clockspring. First remove the column trim by using your phillips to unscrew the 2 screws holding the trim together. The screws are located on the bottom side of the column, down very deep holes. You should be looking at this when it's all said and done:
Image

The clock spring is held in by 2 small plastic clips built into the assembly at the top and bottom of the unit. Use a flat head to carefully pry the clips up and remove the clockspring. The electrical connector on the bottom left is a special type. You need to push or pull the red piece so you can unclip the connector. It should look like this after you remove the clockspring:
Image

Now you should be looking at this:
Image

Notice the small little piece of plastic directly to the left of the hub. That's the turn signal stalk cancel lever.

Turn your focus to wiring up the horn. Go back to the wiring harness from the clockspring. I simply used a quick-connect available at Wal-Mart and some wires to wire it up. The way the horn works is there is a power and there is a ground. The power wire is (counting from left to right) the third wire on the harness and is very thin:
Image

And I used this type of quick connect to splice into it:
Image

The ground wire is the last thin wire on the harness. You can see the other quick connector already hooked up:
Image

Remember to use fairly long lengths of wire. You don't want it getting pulled or twisted too far underneath the hub. Once wired up, test to see if the horn works. Then pull the wires through the hub adapter you are using and bolt the hub adapter down using the 13mm socket wrench and screw the column cover pieces back on:
Image

Take note of which wire is power and which is ground. In my case, my quick release adapter had a power and ground wire built into it:
Image

I then bolted the quick release adapter on using hex keys. I had a bit of bad luck here, and stripped on of the threads on my hub adapter. It still sits fine, but the bolt is a bit loose. I doubt it will be an issue. I may go back an re-tap the holes, but doubt I will need to.
Image

Now bolt on your wheel of choice to the hub adapter. I used a star pattern (like you lug nuts) to lessen the chance of it coming loose, although if it was coming loose I think you'd know pretty quickly:
Image

That's it, you're done. If you jumper the airbag light (with I think a 2Ohm resistor) you might need to do it at the harness or in the fusebox. There is a thread around here that has to do with that. If you have any questions, let me know.
Cars I've been through:
1989 Toyota Supra Turbo (still have it, non-running)
1994 Acura Integra (wrecked)
1994 Chrysler New Yorker (still have it, mom's now)
1990 Honda Civic AWD Wagon (stolen)
1998 Honda Civic LX (stolen)
1994 Nissan Pickup (bought from uncle, sold back to him)
2001 Dodge Neon R/T (wrecked)
1998 Lexus GS300 (current)
1999 BMW 528i Sport (current)

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kornholio788
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Post by kornholio788 » Thu Dec 20, 2007 11:03 am

Awsome write up dude. I have been wanting to put a aftermarket wheel on my car for a while now with a quick release. How do you like it. How is it not having your cruise control anymore? I have heard of people complaining that the wheel is too close now due to the bigger adapters?

Thanks
2000 Dodge Neon................FULLY BAGGED AND LAID OUT!!...................All Show
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BlackRoseRacing
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Post by BlackRoseRacing » Fri Dec 21, 2007 5:49 am

DISCLAIMER - 2GN and its Staff,do not recomend removing or altering any type of safety device in your vehicle. We are not responsible for any injuries that may occur if doing the above...
Last edited by BlackRoseRacing on Sat Dec 22, 2007 9:50 am, edited 1 time in total.
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occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Fri Dec 21, 2007 11:35 am

^^^^werd! been in too many accidents and the thought of eating one of those wheels makes me cringe, but if you don't wear seat belts I guess it wouldn't matter. You'll just be another piece in the natural selection chain. Believe me that factory steering wheel gets mighty sexy when you become intimate with it against your will.
Bill
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nate-00neon
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Post by nate-00neon » Fri Dec 21, 2007 11:45 am

occasional demons wrote:^^^^werd! been in too many accidents and the thought of eating one of those wheels makes me cringe, but if you don't wear seat belts I guess it wouldn't matter. You'll just be another piece in the natural selection chain. Believe me that factory steering wheel gets mighty sexy when you become intimate with it against your will.
haha im sry to hear that but how you said that was funny.
great write up but im with him...airbags are nice to have :)

01NeonR/T
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Post by 01NeonR/T » Fri Dec 21, 2007 2:58 pm

BlackRoseRacing wrote:DISCLAIMER - 2GN and its Staff,do not recomend removing or altering any type of safety device in your vehicle. We are not responsible for any injuries that may accur if doing the above...
I hear that, although accur = occur? I've since replaced the JDM wheel with an OMP wheel. I don't really miss the cruise control either, as I never really used it.
Cars I've been through:
1989 Toyota Supra Turbo (still have it, non-running)
1994 Acura Integra (wrecked)
1994 Chrysler New Yorker (still have it, mom's now)
1990 Honda Civic AWD Wagon (stolen)
1998 Honda Civic LX (stolen)
1994 Nissan Pickup (bought from uncle, sold back to him)
2001 Dodge Neon R/T (wrecked)
1998 Lexus GS300 (current)
1999 BMW 528i Sport (current)

-Devil-
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Post by -Devil- » Fri Dec 21, 2007 3:29 pm

now that i have decided to keep my car ... i am considering doing this ... but guess i need to figure out which wheel i want first before figuring out the adapters ...

01NeonR/T
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Post by 01NeonR/T » Sat Dec 22, 2007 5:34 am

As far as wheel spacing goes, I now have an OMP wheel on there with the full size quick release and hub adapter and it's perfectly spaced from the stalks. I test fit a Sparco wheel, and my "JDM" wheel too and it is a tad bit too far away. I also tried a short quick release adapter which is not as easy to remove as the full-size one, but with either the Sparco or JDM style wheel, is perfectly spaced from the stalks as well. The OMP wheel is completely flat, whereas the Sparco wheel is spaced a bit. The bad thing about the full size quick release is it isn't as solid as the short one. Because it's spring loaded, the tolerances are a bit loose. I did buy a cheap one though and a name brand one might have better fitment. Heres a pic of just the OMP wheel, I customized the horn by cutting an old Chrysler emblem I had and fitting it in:

Image
Cars I've been through:
1989 Toyota Supra Turbo (still have it, non-running)
1994 Acura Integra (wrecked)
1994 Chrysler New Yorker (still have it, mom's now)
1990 Honda Civic AWD Wagon (stolen)
1998 Honda Civic LX (stolen)
1994 Nissan Pickup (bought from uncle, sold back to him)
2001 Dodge Neon R/T (wrecked)
1998 Lexus GS300 (current)
1999 BMW 528i Sport (current)

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BlackRoseRacing
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Post by BlackRoseRacing » Sat Dec 22, 2007 9:51 am

edited my mis-spelling.....
Thats what I get for not using FireFox with its built in spell checker... :lol:
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occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Fri Dec 28, 2007 7:49 am

Also something to consider if you do this mod. disconnect the battery for at least 2 minutes to discharge the capacitor for the airbag. And when storing the air bag make sure it always faces up, so if it should inadvertently go off it won't launch into the air taking your face with it. A good static charge can set them off. This just basically what the FSM recommends. (It also states the battery disconnect anytime working under the dash, so something doesn't short and set the air bag off) Legalities, ya know....
Bill
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epic

2001 Neon ES MTX with '02 R/T PCM
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BlackRoseRacing
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Post by BlackRoseRacing » Fri Dec 28, 2007 7:39 pm

^^
Thanks again
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mr_mopar_neon
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Post by mr_mopar_neon » Fri Jun 05, 2009 6:15 pm

fitted my momo wheel to day using the momo hub and i had to cut 1/2 off the bottom of the hub to stop it granding on the rim that goes around the top burnig mount as any one els had this?

also what quick-release adapter dose every one use???
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Post by OB » Fri Jun 05, 2009 7:03 pm

^NRG makes a nice quick release. They're pretty universal, designed to work on standard six bolt hubs.
-Derek

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Frank Cuttone
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Post by Frank Cuttone » Mon Dec 30, 2013 12:37 pm

Hi;
Just read your post on "How to:Aftermarket steering Wheel Change" I have a full race 95 dodge Neon Id like to convert to a quick release steering wheel, Can you supply the name of the steering adaptor and quick release hub you used in your post with the JDM wheel?

Thank in advance for your time...!

Regards,
Frank

occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Mon Dec 30, 2013 3:02 pm

Last Visited: Sat Feb 19, 2011 10:09 pm
On the original poster's post's at the bottom, right click on the email tab Image and copy, then paste that into an email, and you may get a response from them if they still use that address.
Bill
dblsg wrote:ya'll a bunch of post whores
epic

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