Vibrations, should I be worried???
Vibrations, should I be worried???
Ok so I bought an 03' R/T, awesome body condition and nice clean eng. A week later eng code for something exhaust flow too low or high, ok fixed that at the dealership.
Never gunned it since missing bushing but finally got around and installed booger bushings and the shifting is nice and tight, one thing that worries me and when I hit the 5k - 6k rpm it kinda of hiccups and then goes, any suggestions on what that might be?
I'm even more worried that sometimes when I'm cruising around 3.5k - 4k rpm usually in 3rd gear and up a small vibration turns into a big one where I can feel it in the wheel, the shifter, the accel. pedal and I clearly see the dash is vibrating as well, I noticed the stock eng mounts seem to have some play, was wondering if that was the case, I'll place pictures up later of it, Merry Xmas and thank ye.
Never gunned it since missing bushing but finally got around and installed booger bushings and the shifting is nice and tight, one thing that worries me and when I hit the 5k - 6k rpm it kinda of hiccups and then goes, any suggestions on what that might be?
I'm even more worried that sometimes when I'm cruising around 3.5k - 4k rpm usually in 3rd gear and up a small vibration turns into a big one where I can feel it in the wheel, the shifter, the accel. pedal and I clearly see the dash is vibrating as well, I noticed the stock eng mounts seem to have some play, was wondering if that was the case, I'll place pictures up later of it, Merry Xmas and thank ye.
Heh.
I'd replace the bushings, there shouldn't be any play, depending on how far you want to take the car you might want to invest in some polyurethane bushings from www.modernperformance.com
kornholio788 wrote:Cops dont like it when you use their colors and make them blink on a regular basis.
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occasional demons
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How is the wheel alignment/A-arm bushings? Could be Neon death wobble. Unless it is on the dyno and does it, can't rule out suspension issues. Does it stop if you put it in neutral and coast? That would be another way to see if it is engine/mounting or something in the trans. or axles/wheels.
Bill
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
Check other stuff first, but I don't believe that the mounts should have any play in them.
If it is the engine mounts then the easiest way to replace the engine/ trans mounts is one at a time with the engine on a jack holding it up.
kornholio788 wrote:Cops dont like it when you use their colors and make them blink on a regular basis.
K well I'm not sure if I had before or whatnot, but I do know I had an alignment issue and I took to a place took them fucking 6 hrs, and no one was there, sorry for the vent, so anyway they "fixed" alignment since I bought new tires for them afterwards since they were whinning for me get some, but he also said I need to replace rotors and brakes, they seem fine to me maybe a lil wear but nothing horrible.
and yes, once I place the car in neutral while driving or into another gear it stops vibrating.
and yes, once I place the car in neutral while driving or into another gear it stops vibrating.
Heh.
Underneath where you're working. I think the easiest way would be to put the car chassis on stands and use a jack to hold the engine up (put it underneath where you'll be working) so you can adjust it if you need to. But remember you don't want pressure on the engine, just want it to hold it up.
kornholio788 wrote:Cops dont like it when you use their colors and make them blink on a regular basis.
yea I've read about placing a piece of wood in between the engine and the jack to prevent any damage, I'm basically just taking pressure off the mounts to place the inserts in right, I'm probably just making it sound harder than it is, never done it before but it seems pretty easy and also be pretty easy to ...fuck it up 
Heh.
- kc2005ptgt
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yes, just enough pressure for it to sit on it, not move it up... actually, it is very easy to do, just be careful.
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occasional demons
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The struts where the inserts go just keep the motor from going back and forth. the jack is used just to keep it from leaning forward too much. There is amount mid way between that supports the weight of the motor. Mark where the top one mounts in the body. It will need to go back in the same place . there is an actual measurement go to here http://www.ertyu.org/steven_nikkel/neon ... ntlpdf.pdf edit: Click on service manual
go to 963/1771 page this is up in the toolbar, or just go to engine/2.0 SOHC/torque strut/adjustments in the left side pane. getting it adjusted right will minimize the little vibrations. this will also tell you everything there is to install the struts. So basically you just put the inserts in and reinstall the strut. I think the bottom you only need to remove the end the insert goes in just swing it down.
go to 963/1771 page this is up in the toolbar, or just go to engine/2.0 SOHC/torque strut/adjustments in the left side pane. getting it adjusted right will minimize the little vibrations. this will also tell you everything there is to install the struts. So basically you just put the inserts in and reinstall the strut. I think the bottom you only need to remove the end the insert goes in just swing it down.
Bill
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
thanks you two for the info, really appreciate it, so I figure, you guys think it would be safe to place the car under 4 jacks and a 2 ton rated hydraulic jack to support the engine and i should be fine work on the 2 inserts no prob. as long as the car is stable? Or should i just 2 car jacks up front and 2 lil tire placements in the back, pretty sure I'm just overreacting. I'm really iffy about this, I'm dling adobe reader as I type to look at this service manual so yea haven't gotten the chance to look it but thas guys I'll keep ya posted. 
Heh.
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gilly02le
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to be honest, i didn't use a jack at all when i installed mine, i just installed the upper mount first, and the lower mount second, the engine never moved at all. the jack is a good idea, just make sure it isn't putting any pressure on the motor, or it will be Too High, as opposed to too low from it just hanging there.
A Little Grease helps big time to get these suckers in place, That and i had a friend wiggle the engine to ease the process of getting the insert installed, once finished, i put the bolt back in place, torqued it to spec, and then proceeded on to the bottom mount.
A Little Grease helps big time to get these suckers in place, That and i had a friend wiggle the engine to ease the process of getting the insert installed, once finished, i put the bolt back in place, torqued it to spec, and then proceeded on to the bottom mount.
New Sig Time.
silicone, or wheel bearing grease, wouldn't recomend wd-40, despite how all the hicks where I live swear by it (damn duct tape and wd40). silicone's good for conditioning rubber and it's safe with plastic, or polyurethane. I can't remember which ones they sell on MP, or if they have both. Wheel bearing grease won't hurt anything. actually saw an episode of ripley's or something like that where a guy put it on bread and ate it. I'm more of a turkey and provolone type of guy myself though.
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Re: Vibrations, should I be worried???
Dimas wrote: one thing that worries me and when I hit the 5k - 6k rpm it kinda of hiccups and then goes, any suggestions on what that might be?
Project Log viewtopic.php?t=27630
MP 60mm TB, K&N filter, Magnaflow muffler, Deyeme solid torque struts, MTX 3.55, Kyle shift end links, Booger bushings, Mopure STS, Powerslot rotors, 15" Rota Slipstreams, Falken Ziex 512's, Koni Yellow inserts, Hotchkis sways, Eibach pro springs. Work in progress.
MP 60mm TB, K&N filter, Magnaflow muffler, Deyeme solid torque struts, MTX 3.55, Kyle shift end links, Booger bushings, Mopure STS, Powerslot rotors, 15" Rota Slipstreams, Falken Ziex 512's, Koni Yellow inserts, Hotchkis sways, Eibach pro springs. Work in progress.
