Ball joint/LCA

OB · Post by OB » Sat Dec 29, 2007 10:51 pm

Hey all, just did some searching but I have a few additional questions. I just did all the brakes on my dads neon, and replaced the right front strut in attempt to repair a major squeek and groan he's been dealing with when going over bumps. I found the LCA boot at the ball joint to be shot, exposing part of the ball joint. I was going to bolt up the strut assembly and the knuckle just started flopping around freely. I looked around and found the fried ball joint boot, and realized the squeek was coming from the axle balance-rubber thingy rubbing on the oil filter. Now my question is, since the tie rod and CV joint have been dealing with insane stress due to the flexibilty of the bad ball joint, is there a chance there could be damage to the surrounding components? The clunking my dad has been hearing sounded like a cv issue to me, but he was told from a tech at a dodge dealer to replace the strut. I heard the squeek and it sounded legit, so I went to it. Now it looks like the LCA ball joint needs service asap and its the end of the night. You guys think its safe to drive like that, or should I try to get this done tonight/tomorrow morning?

jT · Post by jT » Sat Dec 29, 2007 11:20 pm

i think the general consensus is if the ball joint is bad then you should replace it asap because i think potentially it can just break and your shit will fall apart while youre driving........ but on the other hand ive been driving for quite some time now with a so-called bad ball joint and have not had any problems with it------------yet.

if you do do the ball joint(s), take pics, make a how to, make it easier for me since my attempt at doing it did not go too well

OB · Post by OB » Sun Dec 30, 2007 2:59 am

I always do.

So who's done this job and what am I looking at? I dont have a torch or a press, but I do have various c clamps and pretty much every other hand tool known to man. I need to do this on a budget and with minimal extra tools. Can it be done with a c clamp and hand tools?

Also, whats an apprx price for the new ball joint? Anything else I need or does the new joint come with the boot and all that jazz? Thanks in advance. Looks like this is my project next sunday morning. My dad made it home ok with the new brakes, wheel cylinder, and rf strut I put in today, so hopefully all goes well for the next 8 days.

Any and all advise and/or help is much appreciated.

jT · Post by jT » Sun Dec 30, 2007 5:48 am

the ball joint press rental from autozone is a HUGE c-clamp basically with a couple pieces to push on the ball joint and to receive it..... the rental is $100

and although this picture shows it being used with a hand tool it will probably be pretty damn hard to REALLY use it by hand.. better with an impact gun ive read..

the generic ball joints i got from advanced auto parts were just under 20 each and came with the boot and snap ring.. nothing else.. even though the website picture showed the bolt and nut.. i think a more expensive ball joint would have the bolt and nut.... which some suggest replacing at the same time

the ball joint presses out from the top and in from the bottom or so ive read, so obviously unless the car is jacked up very high or on a lift then getting an impact on the c-clamp will be difficult.. unless you take off the LCA completely, anyways

and youve got to make sure that it goes in straight or you can warp your control arm

like i said i have not done this, everything ive said is info ive gathered from various threads here and on neons.org .. but nobody has done, at least that i have found, a real proper step by step how to for doing ball joints...kkkkkkk

OB · Post by OB » Mon Dec 31, 2007 1:35 pm

Well keep the info coming. Im slated to tackle this one on sunday. Im gonna hit the FSM and see what comes of it. I'm sure its gonna be a paid but ill get it done.

OB · Post by OB » Wed Jan 02, 2008 9:32 pm

So my dad called chrysler and found that they sell a control arm kit that already has the ball joint pressed in. The only problem is that it's $180. Since I dont have the tools to do the ball joint, I think we're gonna go this route to save time. I dont feel like spending 10 hours beating a ball joint out just to save some money. The control arm swap is much simpler and requires nothing but basic tools.

Post by **occasional demons** » Fri Jan 04, 2008 12:33 am

Since you were originally doin' just the ball joints this didn't apply, but now it does. (If you go the upgraded bushing route not that more cost is good,but clean parts are nicer to work with.)

http://www.srtforums.com/forums/f75/how ... gs-358529/

half_twisted · Post by **half_twisted** » Fri Jan 04, 2008 2:19 pm

are those new ball joints equiped with the grease nipple. I know my 2000 doesnt have them and i checked autozone and the new ball joint runs $40 with a plug that can be removed to add the grease fitting.

OB · Post by OB » Sat Jan 05, 2008 7:59 pm

Alright change in plans again. Im back to only doing the ball joint, not the whole control arm. One of my coworkers happened to have a matco press kit in his box, so he's gonna loan it to me for the weekend. Ive done a ton of research and it looks to be a pretty straightforward job. The ball joint kit im getting from NAPA seems to be pretty complete. The only thing we bought extra was a replacement pinch bolt for the knuckle-to-balljoint connection. Not too sure whether it comes with a greasable zirc fitting, but if not ill just grab one from work. I DO need to come up with a grease gun, I dont own one of those. Probably another thing ill borrow from work.