JUST STOPPED RUNNING!!!!

bstc00 · Post by **bstc00** » Tue Jan 08, 2008 1:27 pm

I was on my way to an interview today and i stop at a red light and my car just stopped running on me. i tried to restart it. It would turn over but nothing would happen. I tried to jump starte it but that didnt do anything. Yes I have gas in the tank and the fual pump was working. Any Suggestion?

Post by **occasional demons** » Tue Jan 08, 2008 1:37 pm

Key "on" three times without hitting the starter then the codes should come up on the odometer - leave key on the third time. Tell us what codes you (hopefully) get. It could be anything from a cranksensor to a bad coil to a bad fuel pressure regulator - just because the pump is running doesn't gaurantee that there is enough pressure.

latief · Post by **latief** » Tue Jan 08, 2008 1:47 pm

off topic a bit, where is the fuel pressure regulator located in the neon ?

hansken_yo · Post by **hansken_yo** » Tue Jan 08, 2008 1:52 pm

Bad alternator, which would eventually drain the battery causing no more ignition????

bstc00 · Post by **bstc00** » Tue Jan 08, 2008 1:57 pm

the alternator is fine just replaced it 6 mounths ago and it was turning over.

i think these are the codes i got. i dont have my car at home its at the dealer

0340 batter disconnected
1680 i think thats it...something about the cat

hansken_yo · Post by **hansken_yo** » Tue Jan 08, 2008 2:01 pm

unless you got something else drawing upon the battery, i suspect that there might be something wrong with the new alternator.
I'm not sure exactly what a clogged cat would do, but that could be another problem.

Anyway. Glad your gettin it fixed. Good luck with it.

Post by **occasional demons** » Tue Jan 08, 2008 3:08 pm

latief wrote:off topic a bit, where is the fuel pressure regulator located in the neon ?

On the gas tank where the fuel line comes out. It is a filter/regulator assy. instead of a return line it just dumps the excess pressure back to the tank. Cheaper for them more cost for us.

0340 is no cam signal! that is your problem. You need a camshaft position sensor. this post should take care of ya.

http://forum.2gn.org/viewtopic.php?t=27742

04R/T · Post by **04R/T** » Tue Jan 08, 2008 11:04 pm

occasional demons wrote:
latief wrote:off topic a bit, where is the fuel pressure regulator located in the neon ?
On the gas tank where the fuel line comes out. It is a filter/regulator assy. instead of a return line it just dumps the excess pressure back to the tank. Cheaper for them more cost for us.

0340 is no cam signal! that is your problem. You need a camshaft position sensor. this post should take care of ya.

http://forum.2GN.org/viewtopic.php?t=27742

Cam signal? is it the sensor or is there no cam signal because the cam isn't turning like if the timing belt broke.

Post by **occasional demons** » Tue Jan 08, 2008 11:16 pm

04R/T wrote:
occasional demons wrote:
latief wrote:off topic a bit, where is the fuel pressure regulator located in the neon ?
On the gas tank where the fuel line comes out. It is a filter/regulator assy. instead of a return line it just dumps the excess pressure back to the tank. Cheaper for them more cost for us.

0340 is no cam signal! that is your problem. You need a camshaft position sensor. this post should take care of ya.

http://forum.2GN.org/viewtopic.php?t=27742
Cam signal? is it the sensor or is there no cam signal because the cam isn't turning like if the timing belt broke.

Umm, good point. Guess I was being optimistic. He didn't say how many miles were on it, did he. I hope for his sake I was right.

bstc00 wrote: i think these are the codes i got. i dont have my car at home its at the dealer

Let's also hope his dealer is better than some of the others we've been hearing about lately.

Kelevra · Post by **Kelevra** » Tue Jan 08, 2008 11:30 pm

if the belt broke... interference engine with bent valves FTL

bstc00 · Post by **bstc00** » Wed Jan 09, 2008 8:44 am

They found the problem, and it’s a broken timing belt. Oh no. They’re not sure if there is anything broken internally yet. Cross my fingers!!!

Post by **occasional demons** » Wed Jan 09, 2008 8:58 am

Yor are lookin' at a few bent valves at the minimum. Hope that job interview went well. If you can start pricing used complete head assy's. prolly the cheapest fix, as long as there is no signifigant piston damage. OOO, just noticed you have an R/T. Ouch. used head will be hard(er) to find. It's gonna hurt.

Kelevra · Post by **Kelevra** » Wed Jan 09, 2008 10:17 am

Your valves are done

bstc00 · Post by **bstc00** » Wed Jan 09, 2008 11:24 am

http://www.detroitneonowners.org/viewtopic.php?t=14271
im think about getting this. what you think

Post by **occasional demons** » Wed Jan 09, 2008 12:38 pm

It is an option... but make sure there isn't any damage to your bottom end first.

bstc00 · Post by **bstc00** » Wed Jan 09, 2008 11:15 pm

problem fixed. the only thing that was wrong was the timing belt. runs like new again

Wizzard~Of~Ozz · Post by **Wizzard~Of~Ozz** » Wed Jan 09, 2008 11:23 pm

Hmmm, can you pass the horseshoe to the next person that might need it?

Post by **occasional demons** » Wed Jan 09, 2008 11:29 pm

Damn! That's some luck, getting the valves to all stop out of harm's way. I'll go in with ya on the Lottery

Panhead · Post by **Panhead** » Thu Jan 10, 2008 1:35 am

my dad blew the timing belt 2 times on our 87 reliant. those 2 times missed bending the valves. its like a 50/50 shot.

BlackRoseRacing · Post by **BlackRoseRacing** » Thu Jan 10, 2008 6:23 am

^^^
The 2.2/2.5 SOHC motors were non-interference.....

bstc00, wich R/T did you have at the dealer? I see you have 3 in your profile...

OverDrive418 · Post by **OverDrive418** » Thu Jan 10, 2008 7:30 am

Can I just ask how many miles are on your car?

bstc00 · Post by **bstc00** » Thu Jan 10, 2008 7:30 am

i had the 01

bstc00 · Post by **bstc00** » Fri Jan 11, 2008 7:13 pm

So I got my car back today. The dealer said it was running fine. I jump in to drive home and notice that it is running on three cylinders... those F**kers said that it was running fine. It shacks real bad, and makes a knocking knows when at idle. But when driving its fine. Except that it is slow. I checked for codes and got p0302, 1684. HELP

Post by **occasional demons** » Fri Jan 11, 2008 8:21 pm

1684 is just the battery disconnected P0302 is cylinder #2 misfire. prolly a bent valve in #2 Can't believe they would release a car with a CEL and say it's fine. I would not recommend driving it till you do a compression check to verify if the valve is good or you could burn the valve seat adding to the cost of repairs. at the least you'll need a valve or two and a valve grind. If that's the cause of the miss. WTF is with these dealers lately? If this keeps up my next new car will be from somewhere else if thats the service we can expect.

J-Villa · Post by **J-Villa** » Fri Jan 11, 2008 8:38 pm

sounds about right for a dealer....let's half ass it, sending out so it comes back. And then we can charge for another repair...

bstc00 · Post by **bstc00** » Sat Jan 12, 2008 12:33 pm

So I did a compression check on my car today. These are the numbers I came up with.

cly First Second max
1 120 120 205
2 90 90 180
3 90 120 205
4 110 130 205

One other thing. When taking out the spark plugs I found oil on sparkplug cyl # 4

Post by **occasional demons** » Sat Jan 12, 2008 1:53 pm

OK, do you have access to an air compressor? Heck, even one of those cheap 12 volt ones will work (tho you will need to cut the end off and put a quick coupler on), just stick it inside the car to deaden the noise. Using the compression tester hose remove the check valve in the end and insert the hose into the spark plug hole, turn on the air, just stay away from the belts as the engine will prolly turn as the cylinder goes to bottom. Next listen to the TB opening and the exhaust pipe to determine which valve may be leaking the trick is to get the cylinder being tested in the compression stroke. you can do this by using the hose with the end open and place your finger on the end and have someone turn the crank by hand till you feel pressure building. the passenger side tire will need to come off to get easy access to the crank. you can do it by bumping the starter but it's hit and miss. I doubt that there is a hole in the piston, but you will hear blow by in the crank case that is fairly normal. (Unlees there is a gale force wind comming out the filler cap) but you compression #'s wouldn't have been that high. Do a good cyl. first to see what it sounds like, then do #2 just make sure the cyl is at the bottm of the compresson stroke or air will leak past a valve no matter what. and be sure the car is out of gear/ brake set
If you do hear air leakinf from the intake or exhaust, then the head will have to come off and the damage repaired. as fas as # 4 oil on the spark plug it could be the tube leaking, if you have to pull the head it can be replaced then.

bstc00 · Post by **bstc00** » Sat Jan 12, 2008 3:01 pm

ok thanks alot

infil · Post by **infil** » Sun Jan 13, 2008 3:11 am

if you were at idle you'll probably be fine. i've seen 3 neons in total bend valves(sohc's) and all of em were at higher rpm's when the belt broke.

My wifes was at about 6600 when the belt went, that shelled the valves, the racecar has gone twice due to water pump failures at idle and the engine is still in the car running fine. Handfull of customers same thing, belt went at idle or lower rpm, new belt fired right up no problem.

bstc00 · Post by **bstc00** » Mon Mar 10, 2008 4:22 pm

So here is the deal. I just got my car all back together after I replaced the timing belt new gaskets, and had the valve steams resealed. Before I did all of this I was getting these two codes p0302 cylinder 2 misfire, P1684 Driver 5 Line 4. What could be the problem? The valve steams are fine and there are no marks on the pistons. WHY is it doing this?