Stuck Caliper

Dimas · Post by **Dimas** » Sun Jan 20, 2008 1:12 am

How would I go about fixing this?

Dimas · Post by **Dimas** » Sun Jan 20, 2008 1:52 am

Read up on it saying that if vehicle pulls on either side than it made be a bad piston in the caliper, I haven't really noticed if any pulling while braking but the pad on the right side has way more wear than the left side any suggestion/

TN.Frank · Post by **TN.Frank** » Sun Jan 20, 2008 11:30 am

Sounds like it's time to buy a new set of calipers. Brake fluid picks up a lot of water, the water rust the caliper on the inside of the piston and BANG, you get a stuck caliper. Make sure when you replace em' to bleed the brakes real good to get rid of some of the old fluid and replace it with quality DOT 4 or DOT 5 fluid.

Dimas · Post by **Dimas** » Mon Jan 21, 2008 2:51 pm

bah I just painted the calipers too lol ***k !

now heres the question do i just replace that one caliper or go the full away around? I reading the manual I need a c-clamp to remove is there any other way

half_twisted · Post by **half_twisted** » Mon Jan 21, 2008 3:52 pm

you dont really need thee c clamp. similar tools are sold cheaper if you ask around in the shop. my advise would be if you replace 1 of the front calipers then its best if you do both front. same thing goes for the back brakes.
I really dont think the piston is stuck, you might have something else going on and got that idea. I just did my front breaks this weekend and noticed that my left side pads where worn down more than the right side. number 1 reason would be that the piston isnt pushing the pad hard enough cuz it needs more pressure in the lines and when you have air in the lines you loose pressure. Just replace the pads bleed the lines the CORRECT way starting from the back right then back left then move to the front right then left. That fixed my problem

Panhead · Post by **Panhead** » Mon Jan 21, 2008 5:39 pm

could be caused by dirty fluid too. when my car isnt warmed up properly, the car will pull to the right. as soon as it gets warmed up, both front brakes work properly. it only happened one time but i really need to fush the brake system. also, if you dont feel like buying new calipers, you can also rebuild them yourself.

Dimas · Post by **Dimas** » Mon Jan 21, 2008 5:55 pm

yea I have no idea where this person had left off on the maintence side of it, but yea I'll try bleeding the brakes, also noticed that power steering fluid is low and coolant as well, since I do not know what is in there at the moment does it matter if I just throw some in there from some autoparts store without knowing what is currently being used?

ragek23 · Post by **ragek23** » Mon Jan 21, 2008 6:49 pm

DOT 5 or even better DOT silicone are the best fluids to get. the silicone will protect and lubricate everything nicely.

Post by **racer12306** » Mon Jan 21, 2008 6:59 pm

The brake fluid won't attract water if the cap isn't removed.

Dot 3 in a street car is fine.

Your power steering fluid is going to be ATF+4, its available at Walmart, dealers, autozone, advance auto, etc.

The coolant is Mopar HOAT or Zerex G-05. The Zerex is typically found at Pep Boys. Mopar at the dealer. You can also use the all makes all models coolant that is found in prestore, peak, supertech, etc brands.

Remember to check the power steering and coolant levels while hot. Drive around for about 15 - 20 minutes and that should be good. If the car is cold then the coolant should be at the add mark, that is full, when the coolant expands it will be at the hot full mark.

ewetho · Post by **ewetho** » Mon Jan 21, 2008 7:12 pm

Check your calipers first. You may just need to clean or replace slides. If you pull a caliper and the piston moves OK the really look over the slides for corrosion and what not. I have to clean the slides real good all the time and then have no difficulty after a brake job even though abnormal wear was first found with pads on one caliper being much thicker than the other.

If you find trying to pry them over so you can easily remove them that they bind, try pulling and cleaning them the best you can (Wire brush on a bench grinder is good). Clean out the hole the go in as well as you can too and then lube with High Temp Silicone (Synthetic caliper grease or Syl-Glide) and then see how free they are. If you can't get the slides out or still rough and sticky just replace the caliper. Also if the piston is stuck not worth it either replace the caliper.

As far as which ones to change, change them in sets per axle. So if the LF is bad change both fronts.

Post by **occasional demons** » Mon Jan 21, 2008 9:37 pm

Also check the knuckles where the pads themselves hit. they get pretty worn over time leaving a nice pocket that can prevent free movement of the pads.

Dimas · Post by **Dimas** » Mon Jan 21, 2008 10:34 pm

thanks for the info guys, was wondering do i have to flush the previous coolant out b4 puttin some in since I dont know wha was used b4, sorry for the noob ? thanks.

Post by **occasional demons** » Mon Jan 21, 2008 11:42 pm

Considering it's prolly original, being 5 years old it won't hurt to flush it regardless. Brake fluid tends to be one of the most neglected fluids in cars.