Brakes 101

half_twisted · Post by **half_twisted** » Mon Jan 21, 2008 12:34 pm

Ok so i just bought new cross dr and sloted rotors and was forced to change my brake pads from carbonmetalics to semi metalics. I didnt want to get ceramics since they are way to harsh on the rotors and just eat them up. and I was told that semimetalics do the same. I didnt really want to get anything that would be harsh on the rotors since i want them to last. I noticed that most car can take 2years on the same pads before new ones are needed and the rotors are still new looking.
can someone point out the different pad applications and what they do to iron or cast iron rotors.

Post by **occasional demons** » Mon Jan 21, 2008 9:28 pm

I've been running ceramic for years now and never had any problems with rotors. Low dust FTW.
Edit: if a pad is eating rotors you will see the rust stains on your wheels from the cast iron dust. My wheels stay clean looking. I've always used Raybestos pads. Hated carbon metallic as the wheels would turn black two days after washing them.

half_twisted · Post by **half_twisted** » Tue Jan 22, 2008 3:50 pm

but dont the ceramic pads eat up the rotors. and I would use the raysbestos but heard they were to soft and would wear out faster with slotted and cross drilled rotors.

BlackRoseRacing · Post by **BlackRoseRacing** » Tue Jan 22, 2008 4:16 pm

Semi-Mettalic's eat rotors, not Ceramic's

half_twisted · Post by **half_twisted** » Tue Jan 22, 2008 5:11 pm

so as long as i stay away from the metalics pad then i should be ok.

Danteneon · Post by **Danteneon** » Tue Jan 22, 2008 5:32 pm

Rule of thumb...if using cross-drilled rotors, it is advised that you not use softer compound pads because the holes clog (losing the x-drilled effect). I have used Autospecialties x-drilled rotors on my old 2000 neon with their (then called) extreme 911 pads (the new name escapes me). I ran this set up for a year and a half (til I had to give her up) and had no wear issues on pad or rotors. Slightly more noise when cold, but that was it. Great stopping, no warped rotors, un-clogged holes

kc2005ptgt · Post by **kc2005ptgt** » Tue Jan 22, 2008 5:49 pm

I am running stock (never been replaced) rotors for over 80k miles with no problems. I have just recently repaced my pads with ceramic ones in front and still stock in rear. Personally, if your pads are being replaced that quick (2 years) you are riding your brakes or possibly have warped rotors.

I have heard that some x-drilled/slotted rotors will not take ceramic pads as well.

half_twisted · Post by **half_twisted** » Tue Jan 22, 2008 7:27 pm

hwo the heck would i know if my rotors are warped.

gilly02le · Post by **gilly02le** » Tue Jan 22, 2008 9:40 pm

you can feel the pulse in the pedal while breaking, feels like your tires have flat spots(again only while breaking)

OB · Post by OB » Tue Jan 22, 2008 10:32 pm

half_twisted wrote:hwo the heck would i know if my rotors are warped.

Pull them off and check them with a micrometer.

Danteneon · Post by **Danteneon** » Wed Jan 23, 2008 8:09 am

I know the difference between brakes from my 2000 base model and my 2002 ACR is technically the pads, but I have yet to have any problems with the brakes on the ACR either. Non R/T's & ACR's can warp rotors in a heartbeat it seems.

Post by **occasional demons** » Thu Jan 24, 2008 12:17 am

I have 120K on my orignal rotors, with fair abuse, and no thumping pedals here.