My 2000 neon srt-4 swap finally RUNS...UPDATE

dave09092 · Post by **dave09092** » Tue Jan 22, 2008 6:16 pm

I received and installed the new stage 1 PCM today after waiting 2 months. My srt-4 swap finally starts but it won't move at all. I think it might be the clutch but I need some feedback.

The master and slave cylinders are brand new. I had a friend press and release the clutch while I was under the car. The Slave cylinder pushes the TOB but it pushes it a bit crooked. I checked the shifter and cables and it does go into all the gears. I lifted the car and put it in gear, the wheel turns but it has no power and I stop it with my foot. I put it in reverse and it did the same thing.

Also I can put the car in any gear while its running without pushing the clutch in. I guess the clutch is not engaging or maybe its the TOB.

Please help me guys. Do you guys think it might need a new clutch and TOB?

Dave

NiteHawk · Post by **NiteHawk** » Wed Jan 23, 2008 2:46 am

if they were brand new, there's likely still air in the line.....

when i first started up david's car, the car wouldnt go into gear at all.....too much air in the line...

keep bleeding the hydraulic setup, it will eventually bleed itself out.

if that doesnt work, replace clutch and TOB. Also, make sure teh TOB is even in place correctly on the fork, since if not installed properly, it wont seat right.....

2002TuRboNeoN · Post by **2002TuRboNeoN** » Wed Jan 23, 2008 9:33 am

not to make you sound dumb, but make sure the axle is in all the way... if u try to put it into gear does it stall or just wont go anywhere??? trace your steps back i would bleed the slave cylinder and try again before you rip apart the tranny and check the tob. lmk if you put it on jack stands do the wheels move

dave09092 · Post by **dave09092** » Wed Jan 23, 2008 10:03 am

How do I bleed the master/slave cylinders?

The transmission came with the TOB already installed and I never checked it. The slave cylinder pushes the TOB kind of crooked.

I only have the drivers side axle and I checked it. It is all the way in.

While the car is running and I put it in gear, it revs to 2000 and then it goes back to 1000. It does not stall even thought I put it in gear with no clutch. It does not move at all.

I put the car in jack stands and started it in first gear, the wheel turns but it has no power. I put it in reverse to see if the wheel would turn the other way and it does but it also doesn't have power.

BTW I really appreciate all your helpful information

Thanks,
Dave

Post by **Diablo0** » Wed Jan 23, 2008 10:12 am

Wait... you only have one axle in, and thats it? No passenger side axle has been installed yet?

lvlistchif · Post by **lvlistchif** » Wed Jan 23, 2008 10:28 am

dude dont drive it with only1 axle.... ok first off you will leak transmission fluid all over the ground unless you have the half shaft on and 2 i doubt thats good on the transmission to have all the power going to 1 side of the lsd. 2nd if u do have both axles then you have to much air in your lines when i did my big turbo srt swap in my 2000 i had to bleed the lines. ok sence u asked how to do this what you do is.... untwist the black piece thats under your hood attached to the tranny, it has a weird way of coming out but im sure if you did the swap then you know what im talkin about, untwist it then take the cap off the fluid resovior which you prob mounted next to the brake fluid resovior.... DO NOT PRESS THE CLUTCH PEDAL IN WHILE THAT BLACK PIECE IT OUTSIDE OF THE TRANNY IT WILL PUSH THE ROD OUT THE END AND REWIN YOUR WHOLE CLUTCH ASSEMBLY HYDRO SYSTEM I DID IT 2 TIMES 1 WASNT MY FAULT THOUGH. then what you do is take the rod on that black piece and keep pushing the rod in and out in and out and watch the resovior you will slowly see tons of bubbles coming up from the resovior. do that about 50 times and keep pressing in farther and farther everytime then put the black piece back in the tranny piece but make sure it sits in the ball on the clutch fork then go to the pedal and push it about 20 times. the first 10 times itll be kinda soft then itll stiffin up. ive bled it tons of ways but honestly i find this to be the best method

dave09092 · Post by **dave09092** » Wed Jan 23, 2008 10:40 am

I only have the drivers side axle from the regular neon. I do have the half shaft on the passengers side.

lvlistchif are you talking about the slave cylinder? How do I remove the slave cylinder without disconnecting the master cylinder line?

Post by **Diablo0** » Wed Jan 23, 2008 10:51 am

Yeah, if you only have the half shaft and thats it, nothing going to the other wheel you aren't going to have any power. All the power will follow the pathof least resistance, in this case, the half saft if you're holding the wheel on the opposite side of the diff from moving. Same thing goes the other way, if you're holding the half shaft from spinning the wheel should start moving since it's on the other side of the diff.

If you wanted to test it, get someone to hold the wheel from spinning, then crawl under the car and you should notice the half-shaft spinning. If you try and grasp that, CAREFULLY to try and get it to stop spinning as well... you shouldn't be able since the motor will keep driving it. If while you're still trying to hold it and you're friend lets go of the wheel, you should then be stop the half shaft from spinning and the wheel will start to turn.

Yes, he's talking about the slave. The slave rotates out of the transmission and the lines are pretty flexiable so you should be able to rotate it enough to remove it from the tranny without disconnecting it from your master cylinder.

dave09092 · Post by **dave09092** » Wed Jan 23, 2008 11:00 am

...so I need both axles in order for the car to move? Why can I put the car in any gear while its running without pressing the clutch?

I will try what you said Jason. Thank you all for your help.

Post by **Diablo0** » Wed Jan 23, 2008 11:26 am

Probably so little resistance in the drivetrain since the wheel is free spinning and the just a half half on the other end that the clutch isn't necessary to break the connection between the tranny and engine while the next gear engages.

You will however need both axles to get the car moving, reguardless if you have a Quaife diff or not.

lvlistchif · Post by **lvlistchif** » Wed Jan 23, 2008 11:27 am

the reason you can put it in any gear when its off the ground is because the wheels have no resistance or if you mean while its on the ground the same thing. needs resistance on both axles for the car to move. 1+1=2 no other way to get 2, i guess thats the easiest way to put it. put your other axle on then come back and tell us what happens.

Post by **Diablo0** » Wed Jan 23, 2008 11:29 am

Probably should say, put both axles and wheels on, put it on the ground... then tell us what happens. He'll get the same results as long as the front wheels are off the ground.

lvlistchif · Post by **lvlistchif** » Wed Jan 23, 2008 11:31 am

yea thats what i ment to say, put both axles on and wheels on then set it on the ground and burn tread

.

dave09092 · Post by **dave09092** » Wed Jan 23, 2008 11:38 am

Thank you guys! I'm going to work some extra hours so that I can buy both srt-4 axles. Should I still bleed the hydraulic system? I work on the graveyard shift so I have all day to work on my car. I'm tired as hell but this is my dream car. I will post some vids of the car running.

Post by **Diablo0** » Wed Jan 23, 2008 11:48 am

It wouldn't hurt since it only takes a few minutes to bleed it. I'd do it just to be sure it's ready and you don't have to mess with it later.

lvlistchif · Post by **lvlistchif** » Wed Jan 23, 2008 11:54 am

yea the way i said it may have made it sound like it takes a bit longer to do but you can pull it out push it 10 times if you see no bubbles within the first 10 pushes then prob dosent need it. really only takes about 10 seconds to do after youve lifted the hood just undo and push in and out

dave09092 · Post by **dave09092** » Thu Jan 24, 2008 3:09 am

I found some stock srt-4 ds and ps axles for $100 shipped. They have around 30K to 40K miles. What do you guys think?

My car is mostly stock and since I will be breaking in the new engine, I won't be driving it hard. I was told to drive it at varying low speeds.

I was also told to change the 10w40 dino oil after 20, 300, 500,1500 miles. Does that sound right?

Thanks guys for helping me.

Dave

Post by **Diablo0** » Thu Jan 24, 2008 8:50 am

Axle price sounds good.

Did you install a brand spankin new engine?

dave09092 · Post by **dave09092** » Thu Jan 24, 2008 11:52 pm

Diablo0 wrote:Axle price sounds good.

Did you install a brand spankin new engine?

Hey Jason,

I bought the srt-4 axles. They should arrive on the 26 or 27.

Yes, I installed a brand new complete srt-4 engine block.

I bought a complete engine from a guy in CA but he rip me off. The part on the engine block where the transmission mounts was crack and missing pieces.I decided that I didn't want to risk getting another bad engine so I bought a brand new complete srt-4 short block for $1200. I installed a new timing belt, water pump, head gaskets, bolts, some sealer and some other parts I can't remember. The rest of the parts I either swap from the crack engine or bought from the forums.

I have been working on this project for over 2 years. I finally heard the engine on Tuesday when I received and installed the new stage 1 PCM. I LOVE how it sounds. Right now, it has an open pipe and its LOUD as hell.

How long do you think the axles will last?

Thanks,
Dave

Post by **Diablo0** » Fri Jan 25, 2008 8:49 am

OH... gotcha.

How long will they last? Should last the life of the vehicle on normal everyday driving but there's always the chance of snapping one if you race it.

datadave49 · Post by **datadave49** » Fri Jan 25, 2008 9:36 am

Hey Hey
Dave the hardest part of my swap was the clutch (my car
was an auto ) 1 to cut the holes for the master and 2 plug the slave in to the bell housing we try ir with a porter power and that work but it slip also the best thing I found was a pry bar that would fit under the car pull on the bar to engage the the clutch and then install the slave but it would be a lot easer if you had help
As fare a my swap goes we are done until I get better from getting my back fit I will be out of work up to 10 weeks or more (boy I wish I could get under the car to work on het 10 weeks and I have every thing done LOL
Dave

gilly02le · Post by **gilly02le** » Fri Jan 25, 2008 11:04 am

dino oil FTL, you should really upgrade to synthetic oil made for a turbo engine, so that the oil does not turn to foam on ya, since turbos tend to do that to regular dino oil.

2002TuRboNeoN · Post by **2002TuRboNeoN** » Sun Jan 27, 2008 2:16 am

synthetic ftw i used it on my 2002 auto and in my srt motor...not sure wat maod u have done to your srt motor but i would highly recoomend a catch can....the engine likes to use oil...ya know just one of those safe than sorry things...also wondering if you went with a box or the stock srt surge ..lmk

gilly02le · Post by **gilly02le** » Sun Jan 27, 2008 11:59 am

i hear if you don't run a catch can on the srt-4's it will get all kinds of oil in your intercooler piping, and into your turbo eventually which will gunk things up pretty bad, a catch can is definitely a wise idea, plus they are cheap.

dave09092 · Post by **dave09092** » Sun Jan 27, 2008 12:34 pm

Diablo0 wrote:OH... gotcha.

How long will they last? Should last the life of the vehicle on normal everyday driving but there's always the chance of snapping one if you race it.

Thank you Jason.

datadave49 wrote:Hey Hey
Dave the hardest part of my swap was the clutch (my car
was an auto ) 1 to cut the holes for the master and 2 plug the slave in to the bell housing we try ir with a porter power and that work but it slip also the best thing I found was a pry bar that would fit under the car pull on the bar to engage the the clutch and then install the slave but it would be a lot easer if you had help
As fare a my swap goes we are done until I get better from getting my back fit I will be out of work up to 10 weeks or more (boy I wish I could get under the car to work on het 10 weeks and I have every thing done LOL
Dave

Hey Dave,

My 2000 neon was also an automatic. What a PITA it was to install the master cylinder. How's your back after the operation ? I hope everything when as planned. Did you ever fix the oil leak? Thankfully, I don't have any leaks.

2002TuRboNeoN wrote:synthetic ftw i used it on my 2002 auto and in my srt motor...not sure wat maod u have done to your srt motor but i would highly recoomend a catch can....the engine likes to use oil...ya know just one of those safe than sorry things...also wondering if you went with a box or the stock srt surge ..lmk

Hey 2002TuRboNeoN,

I have a Greddy catch can with a PTP check valve. I'm not to sure what you mean by box or the stock surge?

Guys, you aren't suppose to use synthetic oil while in the break-in period.

Please read this articles

http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

http://www.amsperformance.com/instructi ... ctions.pdf

This is from the article

3 more words on break- in:
NO SYNTHETIC OIL !!

Use Valvoline, Halvoline, or similar 10 w 40 Petroleum Car Oil for at least 2 full days of hard racing or 1,500 miles of street riding / driving. After that use your favorite brand of oil.

dave09092 · Post by **dave09092** » Sun Jan 27, 2008 9:31 pm

Jason was absolutely right.

Today, I installed the passengers and drivers side srt-4 axles on my car. Now, it moves and shifts very smoothly. I LOVE it!:rockon:

BTW sometimes the throttle gets stuck and the engine stays at 3k RPMs. I put some WD40 and it seems to work but I don't know for how long. Do you guys recommend some other product for a sticking throttle? I guess it's because it has been sitting in storage for over 2 years.

I want to Thank everyone that has help me over the years with my srt-4 project. If it wasn't for 2GN.org, I would have probably never started this swap.

datadave49 · Post by **datadave49** » Tue Jan 29, 2008 7:29 pm

dave09092 wrote:Jason was absolutely right. Today, I installed the passengers and drivers side srt-4 axles on my car. Now, it moves and shifts very smoothly. I LOVE it!:rockon:

BTW sometimes the throttle gets stuck and the engine stays at 3k RPMs. I put some WD40 and it seems to work but I don't know for how long. Do you guys recommend some other product for a sticking throttle? I guess it's because it has been sitting in storage for over 2 years.

I want to Thank everyone that has help me over the years with my srt-4 project. If it wasn't for 2GN.org, I would have probably never started this swap.

Hey Hey
Dave we go on the 6th of feb wow I hope we are not the only to use SYNTHETIC OIL to brake in the motor oh well I will let you all know how thing go
Dave we stopped working on the car but when the Dr cut us loose and I can go back to work we will finish the rear harness change and get it back together if it is warm this Saturday but thats not my luck LOL
Dave