TB to IM port matching mod. who has tried this?

This is the place to ask questions about your engine components like cams, valves, pistons… just anything that is generally "engine" specific. This also includes questions about exhaust systems such as exhaust manifolds, piping size, mufflers, ect...
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TB to IM port matching mod. who has tried this?

Post by keeders08 » Wed Jan 23, 2008 1:11 pm

LET ME KNOW your results.

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- This is the TB port matched to the TB
- Also the TB has the half-shaft mod.
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Post by Diablo0 » Wed Jan 23, 2008 2:10 pm

Well... I have a ported and polished magnum intake mani with a 3" inlet welded on to make it match up with my 60mm TB. I wouldn't say it was a huge gain but as we all know, every little bit counts and is more or less a supporting mod.
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Post by keeders08 » Wed Jan 23, 2008 2:42 pm

Diablo0 wrote:Well... I have a ported and polished magnum intake mani with a 3" inlet welded on to make it match up with my 60mm TB. I wouldn't say it was a huge gain but as we all know, every little bit counts and is more or less a supporting mod.
Truue that sir.

Diablo, how hard would it be to swap to magnum head/IM/exhaust man./ECU?
-And obviously you know I want opinions that are helpful unlike alot of these ppl on here that just want to dog your ideas...

Also.. i want ur honest educated opinion on exhaust backpressure.. w/e 2 cents ud like to give out.. i dont mean advice, i just mean YOUR take on the subject,
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Post by Diablo0 » Wed Jan 23, 2008 3:16 pm

It's something you could do in a weekend or even a day if you knew what you were doing but it's going to quite a bit more difficult than installing a CAI. Keep in mind that you dont' have the Magnum engine harness so you wouldn't have the wiring for the butterflies in the intake manifold so you'd have to do some wiring for that as well to take full advantage of the intake mani.

Exhaust backpressure... I'd say it's not so much about back pressure but keeping exhaust gas velocity. You dont' want an exhaust pipe thats too small to be restrictive but at the same time you don't want one that's too big to cut down on the air velocity flowing through it. By that I mean okay, take one of those little coffee stir straws thats really small and imagine it being 3 feet long. Try to blow through it... probably going to be hard to do huh but you still feel air coming out the end? Compared that to small piping... Now, take a 2" diamater PVC pipe thats 3' long and try to blow through it. A lot easier to blow through it but at the end of the pipe you don't feel as much air coming out. It's kind of like that on a much larger scale. If the piping is too large as the exhaust gas comes out of the engine it starts to cool down. As it cools it gets denser and harder to move and for lack of a better word, sort of puddles up in the exhaust pipe making it hard for the engine to push that denser air out. The air then slows down and in it's own way becomes a restriction.

Hopefully I explained that pretty well but if not I'm sure someone will correct me lol
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Re: TB to IM port matching mod. who has tried this?

Post by occasional demons » Wed Jan 23, 2008 3:49 pm

keeders08 wrote:LET ME KNOW your results.

Image
- This is the TB port matched to the TB
- Also the TB has the half-shaft mod.
Your intake/TB isn't true to the term, as it can move ever so slightly with that coupler. if it was bolted with a flange on both TB and IM and the flanges/gasket were the same shape/I.D. and aligned, then they would be port matched to be true to the definition, but the power gain over what you currently have wouldn't be worth the trouble unless you were going with a larger TB bore. The only possible downside to that setup is you're losing a small amount of plenum volume. Is it enough to affect anything?????? only a dyno will tell.
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Post by keeders08 » Wed Jan 23, 2008 3:54 pm

Diablo0 wrote:It's something you could do in a weekend or even a day if you knew what you were doing but it's going to quite a bit more difficult than installing a CAI. Keep in mind that you dont' have the Magnum engine harness so you wouldn't have the wiring for the butterflies in the intake manifold so you'd have to do some wiring for that as well to take full advantage of the intake mani.

Exhaust backpressure... I'd say it's not so much about back pressure but keeping exhaust gas velocity. You dont' want an exhaust pipe thats too small to be restrictive but at the same time you don't want one that's too big to cut down on the air velocity flowing through it. By that I mean okay, take one of those little coffee stir straws thats really small and imagine it being 3 feet long. Try to blow through it... probably going to be hard to do huh but you still feel air coming out the end? Compared that to small piping... Now, take a 2" diamater PVC pipe thats 3' long and try to blow through it. A lot easier to blow through it but at the end of the pipe you don't feel as much air coming out. It's kind of like that on a much larger scale. If the piping is too large as the exhaust gas comes out of the engine it starts to cool down. As it cools it gets denser and harder to move and for lack of a better word, sort of puddles up in the exhaust pipe making it hard for the engine to push that denser air out. The air then slows down and in it's own way becomes a restriction.

Hopefully I explained that pretty well but if not I'm sure someone will correct me lol
Well I do understand exhaust um just tryin to get some back up on the issue lol, ppl seem to be tryin to tell others they dont need any backpressure, which is wrong. :rockon: :rockon: :rockon:

my set up is going to be this...

OBX header/downpipe, high flow cat, stainless res, or moroso inline muffler, and a dynomax muffler...

ur opinion on my setup idea is def. welcome :thumbup:
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Post by esteinmaier » Wed Jan 23, 2008 4:03 pm

keeders08 wrote: Well I do understand exhaust um just tryin to get some back up on the issue lol, ppl seem to be tryin to tell others they dont need any backpressure, which is wrong. :rockon: :rockon: :rockon:
Did you even read what Diablo wrote? He just told you that you don't need back pressure. He gave you a thorough explanation.
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Post by keeders08 » Wed Jan 23, 2008 4:12 pm

esteinmaier wrote:
keeders08 wrote: Well I do understand exhaust um just tryin to get some back up on the issue lol, ppl seem to be tryin to tell others they dont need any backpressure, which is wrong. :rockon: :rockon: :rockon:
Did you even read what Diablo wrote? He just told you that you don't need back pressure. He gave you a thorough explanation.
Yea if u have small enough piping.....
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Post by esteinmaier » Wed Jan 23, 2008 4:19 pm

You're just not getting it. I don't know how any of us can make it more clear.
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Post by TN.Frank » Wed Jan 23, 2008 4:28 pm

I've been thinking about getting a coupler and hooking the TB to the Intake like that for some time now, just need to get around to it. Then I can get a tube to run form the TB to the intake box and re-mount my air cleaner to it. That should give me a sort of "velociety scoop" kind of deal with the tubing going into the TB. Still, I might just hook the air filter to the TB and let it pull air from the engine bay, I know it'd not be the best air but it'd be simple and I could get rid of my stock air box then and make more room under the hood. Still kickin' it around though. Would the intake to TB coupler be 2"? That's what I seemed to understand from some other posts.
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Post by keeders08 » Wed Jan 23, 2008 5:43 pm

TN.Frank wrote:I've been thinking about getting a coupler and hooking the TB to the Intake like that for some time now, just need to get around to it. Then I can get a tube to run form the TB to the intake box and re-mount my air cleaner to it. That should give me a sort of "velociety scoop" kind of deal with the tubing going into the TB. Still, I might just hook the air filter to the TB and let it pull air from the engine bay, I know it'd not be the best air but it'd be simple and I could get rid of my stock air box then and make more room under the hood. Still kickin' it around though. Would the intake to TB coupler be 2"? That's what I seemed to understand from some other posts.
Distance Conversion site... all u need is ur TB's size. 52 or 49mm

http://www.convert-me.com/en/convert/length

ATX TB is 52mm MTX is 49mm.... I beleive 52mm is 2 inches tho
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Post by Diablo0 » Wed Jan 23, 2008 6:01 pm

keeders08 wrote:
Diablo0 wrote:It's something you could do in a weekend or even a day if you knew what you were doing but it's going to quite a bit more difficult than installing a CAI. Keep in mind that you dont' have the Magnum engine harness so you wouldn't have the wiring for the butterflies in the intake manifold so you'd have to do some wiring for that as well to take full advantage of the intake mani.

Exhaust backpressure... I'd say it's not so much about back pressure but keeping exhaust gas velocity. You dont' want an exhaust pipe thats too small to be restrictive but at the same time you don't want one that's too big to cut down on the air velocity flowing through it. By that I mean okay, take one of those little coffee stir straws thats really small and imagine it being 3 feet long. Try to blow through it... probably going to be hard to do huh but you still feel air coming out the end? Compared that to small piping... Now, take a 2" diamater PVC pipe thats 3' long and try to blow through it. A lot easier to blow through it but at the end of the pipe you don't feel as much air coming out. It's kind of like that on a much larger scale. If the piping is too large as the exhaust gas comes out of the engine it starts to cool down. As it cools it gets denser and harder to move and for lack of a better word, sort of puddles up in the exhaust pipe making it hard for the engine to push that denser air out. The air then slows down and in it's own way becomes a restriction.

Hopefully I explained that pretty well but if not I'm sure someone will correct me lol
Well I do understand exhaust um just tryin to get some back up on the issue lol, ppl seem to be tryin to tell others they dont need any backpressure, which is wrong. :rockon: :rockon: :rockon:

my set up is going to be this...

OBX header/downpipe, high flow cat, stainless res, or moroso inline muffler, and a dynomax muffler...

ur opinion on my setup idea is def. welcome :thumbup:
It's not really that you need back pressure, it's that you need to find the correct balance of pipe size. Too small and you have a restriction just like taking and trying to blow through through that coffee stir straw. Too large though and the air itself becomes it's own restriction since the new exhaust gas being forced out of the engine and into the exhaust manifold must push all the air in front of it out of the way. The longer the gas sits inside the exhaust piping the more it cools. More it cools, the denser it gets which in turn becomes more air the new air entering the system much push through the piping. This is why you want to try to keep the heat in your exhaust system so the air stays less dense and moves easier. It's not really about back pressure, like I said... it's about the velocity of air exiting the chamber and continuing to travel down the pipe.
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Post by keeders08 » Wed Jan 23, 2008 6:13 pm

Diablo0 wrote:
keeders08 wrote:
Diablo0 wrote:It's something you could do in a weekend or even a day if you knew what you were doing but it's going to quite a bit more difficult than installing a CAI. Keep in mind that you dont' have the Magnum engine harness so you wouldn't have the wiring for the butterflies in the intake manifold so you'd have to do some wiring for that as well to take full advantage of the intake mani.

Exhaust backpressure... I'd say it's not so much about back pressure but keeping exhaust gas velocity. You dont' want an exhaust pipe thats too small to be restrictive but at the same time you don't want one that's too big to cut down on the air velocity flowing through it. By that I mean okay, take one of those little coffee stir straws thats really small and imagine it being 3 feet long. Try to blow through it... probably going to be hard to do huh but you still feel air coming out the end? Compared that to small piping... Now, take a 2" diamater PVC pipe thats 3' long and try to blow through it. A lot easier to blow through it but at the end of the pipe you don't feel as much air coming out. It's kind of like that on a much larger scale. If the piping is too large as the exhaust gas comes out of the engine it starts to cool down. As it cools it gets denser and harder to move and for lack of a better word, sort of puddles up in the exhaust pipe making it hard for the engine to push that denser air out. The air then slows down and in it's own way becomes a restriction.

Hopefully I explained that pretty well but if not I'm sure someone will correct me lol
Well I do understand exhaust um just tryin to get some back up on the issue lol, ppl seem to be tryin to tell others they dont need any backpressure, which is wrong. :rockon: :rockon: :rockon:

my set up is going to be this...

OBX header/downpipe, high flow cat, stainless res, or moroso inline muffler, and a dynomax muffler...

ur opinion on my setup idea is def. welcome :thumbup:
It's not really that you need back pressure, it's that you need to find the correct balance of pipe size. Too small and you have a restriction just like taking and trying to blow through through that coffee stir straw. Too large though and the air itself becomes it's own restriction since the new exhaust gas being forced out of the engine and into the exhaust manifold must push all the air in front of it out of the way. The longer the gas sits inside the exhaust piping the more it cools. More it cools, the denser it gets which in turn becomes more air the new air entering the system much push through the piping. This is why you want to try to keep the heat in your exhaust system so the air stays less dense and moves easier. It's not really about back pressure, like I said... it's about the velocity of air exiting the chamber and continuing to travel down the pipe.
well see thats pretty much what i meant about backpressure, not necessarily making its velocity ne less, just getting to to the point that its not just stealing all of your torque...
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Post by esteinmaier » Wed Jan 23, 2008 6:24 pm

Back pressure does not make torque. It steals it.
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Post by keeders08 » Wed Jan 23, 2008 6:35 pm

esteinmaier wrote:Back pressure does not make torque. It steals it.
i understand what ur saying, but its obvious powerloss when i took my cat off, plain and flippin simple man.... im done discussing this.
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Post by BlackRoseRacing » Wed Jan 23, 2008 7:17 pm

No offense, but if you did not understand what Diablo just explained, then you should not be behind a wrench. N/A Vs FI are 2 totally different elements, if your N/A everything Diablo just explained is TRUE!
Take what he stated and think about it.....



PS - Since this topic is going to turn rough, maybe...I'll leave it here for now :)

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Post by Canada » Wed Jan 23, 2008 8:14 pm

keeders08 wrote: Distance Conversion site... all u need is ur TB's size. 52 or 49mm

http://www.convert-me.com/en/convert/length

ATX TB is 52mm MTX is 49mm.... I beleive 52mm is 2 inches tho
All 2GN Throttle bodies are 52mm, there is no difference between ATX and MTX, it's not a 1GN.

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Post by keeders08 » Wed Jan 23, 2008 10:48 pm

Canada wrote:
keeders08 wrote: Distance Conversion site... all u need is ur TB's size. 52 or 49mm

http://www.convert-me.com/en/convert/length

ATX TB is 52mm MTX is 49mm.... I beleive 52mm is 2 inches tho
All 2GN Throttle bodies are 52mm, there is no difference between ATX and MTX, it's not a 1GN.
Well i stand corrected sir.
BlackRoseRacing wrote:No offense, but if you did not understand what Diablo just explained, then you should not be behind a wrench. N/A Vs FI are 2 totally different elements, if your N/A everything Diablo just explained is TRUE!
Take what he stated and think about it.....



PS - Since this topic is going to turn rough, maybe...I'll leave it here for now :)
I have no feelings to offend :) , i never claimed to be an expert on exhaust. lol :rockon: as for what Diablo explained, i do understand what hes saying, but as far as telling me that removing the cat produced more power.... im just not even gonna begin.. better the whole thing be left alone. :thumbup:
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Post by pandevida85 » Fri Jan 25, 2008 11:54 am

remember dude you have an auto.. everything you do translates through that tranny and power gains and loss feel different. i've seen people with built engines on their atx and go no where off the line fast. The auto tranny reacts different than stick and so does power delivery to the wheels. Just thought I'd point that out.

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Post by keeders08 » Fri Jan 25, 2008 4:57 pm

pandevida85 wrote:remember dude you have an auto.. everything you do translates through that tranny and power gains and loss feel different. i've seen people with built engines on their atx and go no where off the line fast. The auto tranny reacts different than stick and so does power delivery to the wheels. Just thought I'd point that out.
im still wondering how all these ppl got involved in this topic lol. I expected Diablo to reply cuz he always does.

But yea i guess the whole ATX thing makes sense, but wait til i swap to MTX, we'll see how things go lol
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Post by SGT BRAD » Fri Jan 25, 2008 6:11 pm

[quote="keeders08
I have no feelings to offend :) , i never claimed to be an expert on exhaust. lol :rockon: as for what Diablo explained, i do understand what hes saying, but as far as telling me that removing the cat produced more power.... im just not even gonna begin.. better the whole thing be left alone. :thumbup:[/quote]

maybe this will help. it's not the backpressure that causes an increase in tq. it's having an exhaust system volume that matches the exhaust gas volume causing what's called, "scavenging." it's why 2 stroke motorcycles have different sized expansion chambers. change the size/shape of the chamber and you change, 1. the volume and 2. the velocity. btw part of the reason cats seem to help has more to do with the amount of heat that they hold in the front end of the exhaust system than with any backpressure that they create.
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Post by NickKo » Fri Jan 25, 2008 7:03 pm

SGT BRAD wrote: maybe this will help. it's not the backpressure that causes an increase in tq. it's having an exhaust system volume that matches the exhaust gas volume causing what's called, "scavenging." it's why 2 stroke motorcycles have different sized expansion chambers. change the size/shape of the chamber and you change, 1. the volume and 2. the velocity. btw part of the reason cats seem to help has more to do with the amount of heat that they hold in the front end of the exhaust system than with any backpressure that they create.
I've never thought about the heat being generated by the converter helping to keep up velocity.
Good explanation, it makes sense, to me anyways.

Thanks for the tech info, Sgt.Brad.

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Post by occasional demons » Fri Jan 25, 2008 8:36 pm

Exhaust wrap will help keep the heat in to some extent also. The ideal pipe would be one that can change diameter based on temperature and engine rpm, kinda like a living exhaust pipe. And the same could also apply to the intake, at least the rpm part, but it hasn't been invented yet. Meh, it would be a bit creepy tho.
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Post by OB » Fri Jan 25, 2008 9:21 pm

Diablo0 said it best in his first post. Backpressure isnt something needed to make power or torque, this is a myth. Velocity, temperature, and turbulence are the important factors regarding exhaust flow. There are formulas to calculate exhaust pipe diameter and header runner length based on engine displacement and CFM of air flowing through that engine. Exhaust calculations can get very complicated very fast, so unless you're building a race motor and need every last bit of power, the best thing to do is stick with the factory engineering and leave it alone. Changing diameter is a common mistake that tuners make when upgrading exhaust. Unless the engine is flowing a LOT more air, there is no need for this. The factory piping is more than enough at 2.25". The only way to get more power by just bolting up exhaust parts would be to get piping with cleaner/less bends, a mild header, and a higher flowing muffler. The cylinder head and intake system are also important to address for maximum gains. An upgrade to the magnum head would be more than enough for any street car.

As far as i'm concerned, the stock exhaust is a very well engineered system. The muffler is restrictive, as is the exhaust manifold, but neither enough so that there is much power to be found. Taking those out of the loop are a good idea. The piping is decent, but the money spent to change to mandrel bent piping probably isnt worth the 0-2HP/TQ gain. Removing the cat is another way to get a small amount of power. As mentioned in another post, using header wrap or ceramic coating exhaust components is a great way to keep heat in and promote good flow. This is also good for a small amount of power in many cases.

The reason the powerband shifts to the top end when removing restrictions from the exhaust system is simple. The exhaust gas velocity is much lower at lower engine speeds. The engine isn't sucking in as much air, therefore there isnt much left over to exhaust. Less air means less heat after combustion, resulting in lower EGT's. At higher RPM, exhaust flow begins to pick up. Pipe size and design come into play a lot more when the velocity starts to reach these higher levels. This is why gains are felt in the upper portion of the powerband. A higher flowing system gets rid of exhaust gases faster, which in turn results in getting rid of heat faster, often showing up on the dyno graphs as a loss of low end torque. Removing the cat does indeed change the thermal characteristics of the exhaust system. However, by the time the exhaust gets towards that portion of the system, retaining heat is very difficult anyway. Keeping heat up to the catalyst is the ideal way to promote proper EGT's and keep flow up. The rest of the piping after this portion is simply a path for the gas to enter the atmosphere, and has little to do with performance, except maybe to hurt it a bit. This is why true racecars use a long tube header design, calculated to end as soon as thermally possible, making the most power and flowing with as much heat as possible before exiting.
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Post by keeders08 » Sat Jan 26, 2008 7:34 am

Well see i understand all the things you all are saying. Its just my way of explaining it is :quotes: "back pressure" but in reality its not actually that lol... i just had no other way to explain what i was saying. And yea i know all bout 2 stroke exhausts and everything, i used to rebuild my friends blaster evry damn 3 wks to a month cuz he raced it. we experimented back in the day with diff size, different shaped exhausts, even tho his dad straight TOLD us what each would do. I guess a moto mechanic WOULD know, but hey its better to learn the hard way, which is what i do with cars becuz i have no one to teach me. Trail n error is the best way.
:thumbup:

And I never thought about the heat thing either...i wonder if that'd work on a quad? lmao The heat wrap part, ne way...

I'm glad i started this Subject, it'll end up helpin a lot of newbies, not that im an expert, but its all good information.

:rockon: :rockon: :rockon: :rockon: :rockon:
Bob's ur uncle
Keeders
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kc2005ptgt
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Post by kc2005ptgt » Sat Jan 26, 2008 12:22 pm

I am going to say that you are WRONG when you say that removing the cat will NOT produce power... I have proof of it, from a dyno. With the addition of a LTH, mygain was from 135.5 to 143.5hp and no gain in trq.
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Post by keeders08 » Sat Jan 26, 2008 5:21 pm

kc2002acr wrote:I am going to say that you are WRONG when you say that removing the cat will NOT produce power... I have proof of it, from a dyno. With the addition of a LTH, mygain was from 135.5 to 143.5hp and no gain in trq.
ur shit aint stock then bro, neons wont dyno 135.5 stock.
Keeders
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aaaw no son, not a bacon slice!!

Wenuden
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Post by Wenuden » Sat Jan 26, 2008 5:37 pm

it's an r/t acr... Rated for 150@ the crank.
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keeders08
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Post by keeders08 » Sat May 24, 2008 12:43 am

Wenuden wrote:it's an r/t acr... Rated for 150@ the crank.
Thats wat i thought u were measuring... crank 135.5 thats more than an SXT and less than R/T ACR... confused me lol
Keeders
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Post by INVUJerry » Sat May 24, 2008 10:05 am

keeders08 wrote:
Wenuden wrote:it's an r/t acr... Rated for 150@ the crank.
Thats wat i thought u were measuring... crank 135.5 thats more than an SXT and less than R/T ACR... confused me lol
150 at the crank on an ACR is 135 at the wheels.

I think my 98 would dyno at 125 lol.
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