Opinions

dbesade · Post by **dbesade** » Wed Jan 23, 2008 4:45 pm

Not going for crazy here but here is my general plan. Also before I start modifying I am going down to the local Dyno and getting some good baseline runs to compare off of.

*Underdrive Pully
*Cold Air Intake (Will make a splash guard due to water concerns)
*Mild Cam
*Header
*Oil Pump upgrade (stocker's flow makes me nervous)
*SRT Rear Section with a resonator to tone it down a bit

That was about it.. nothing to crazy. What say you more experienced people? Was thinking about a mild turbo setup.. maybe 5 to 7 PSI but unsure of that currently.

-Regards,

Dave

Post by **occasional demons** » Thu Jan 24, 2008 12:09 am

Unless you've got some excess bearing clearances the stock oil pump should be fine for the mods you have listed. A higher volume pump will only use more power to move the "extra" oil. Because if the clearances are good your only going to get that metered amount through anyway. It will just make more pressure. Too much pressure will do more harm than good. It can actually errode the bearings. Just pull your TB bellows off and check out the pond of oil in the IM, you will prolly find that there is plenty of oil getting to the top of the motor! (and out the PCV valve) Just my $0.02 Getting a base line power figure is always nice to have tho! Most of us can only afford the Butt Dyno!

dbesade · Post by **dbesade** » Thu Jan 24, 2008 9:40 am

occasional demons wrote:Unless you've got some excess bearing clearances the stock oil pump should be fine for the mods you have listed. A higher volume pump will only use more power to move the "extra" oil. Because if the clearances are good your only going to get that metered amount through anyway. It will just make more pressure. Too much pressure will do more harm than good. It can actually errode the bearings. Just pull your TB bellows off and check out the pond of oil in the IM, you will prolly find that there is plenty of oil getting to the top of the motor! (and out the PCV valve) Just my $0.02 Getting a base line power figure is always nice to have tho! Most of us can only afford the Butt Dyno!

In your opinion, would getting a catch can (Which I assume is to stop the blow-by from making it back into the manifold), help reducing the oil consumption? I have read conflicting reports.

Thanks for the advice on the oil pump, I will probably add the catch can rather than the pump then at this point.

-Dave

jckevns · Post by **jckevns** » Thu Jan 24, 2008 11:13 am

first before you start buying parts you should decide if you want to go turbo or stay NA
if you plan on going turbo down the road there is no point of wasting money on a header or cold air
wish i would of decided that when i first started would have saved me a couple hundred bucks just a thought

dbesade · Post by **dbesade** » Thu Jan 24, 2008 2:21 pm

jckevns wrote:first before you start buying parts you should decide if you want to go turbo or stay NA
if you plan on going turbo down the road there is no point of wasting money on a header or cold air
wish i would of decided that when i first started would have saved me a couple hundred bucks just a thought

This is extremely good advice and I have asked myself this a lot over the last few months and I have come to the following conclusions:

1. If I got Turbo, I will need to upgrade quite a few parts (Like Axles, replace the tranny, etc).

2. I would need to rebuild the engine with a more turbo friendly Comp ratio

3. If I wanted an SRT/4 I should have bought one.

I personally plan to buy an SRT 4 later this year and keep this car for daily driving and the SRT/4 as my toy. But for now, I would like my N/A 2.0 to be a little peppier all around and a few visual enhancements are money well spent. (Read I want to make good gas milage and look good doing it

).

-Dave

Post by **occasional demons** » Thu Jan 24, 2008 7:34 pm

I recommend a catch can, there are plenty of threads on how to go about it, just use the search feature. It won't necessarily reduce oil "consumption" the oil/water will collect in the can instead. My setup is valve cover>tubing>cooler>tubing>catch can>tubing>PCV valve>intake manifold.

dbesade · Post by **dbesade** » Thu Jan 24, 2008 8:37 pm

occasional demons wrote:I recommend a catch can, there are plenty of threads on how to go about it, just use the search feature. It won't necessarily reduce oil "consumption" the oil/water will collect in the can instead. My setup is valve cover>tubing>cooler>tubing>catch can>tubing>PCV valve>intake manifold.

Hmm so as I understand you have to manually empty the can.. or rig an oil/water separater and pipe the oil back to the pan somehow..

lol I'm such a n00b with cars.. (I'm an big V8 Jeep guy trying something a little different)

thanks everyone

-Dave

60trim · Post by **60trim** » Fri Jan 25, 2008 11:35 am

Heres an idea. Install an oil pressure gauge and gauge the stock pump for yourself. I sit at 5 bar whens its a cold start. It then sit at 4 bar when warm and cruising. The stock pump on a stock engine works well. Just don't romp on the car till your up to operating temp, thats when bearings are spun.

OB · Post by OB » Fri Jan 25, 2008 11:40 am

occasional demons wrote:I recommend a catch can, there are plenty of threads on how to go about it, just use the search feature. It won't necessarily reduce oil "consumption" the oil/water will collect in the can instead. My setup is valve cover>tubing>cooler>tubing>catch can>tubing>PCV valve>intake manifold.

You have a 'cooler' in your crank ventilation stream? Please explain this.

dbesade · Post by **dbesade** » Fri Jan 25, 2008 12:58 pm

60trim wrote:Heres an idea. Install an oil pressure gauge and gauge the stock pump for yourself. I sit at 5 bar whens its a cold start. It then sit at 4 bar when warm and cruising. The stock pump on a stock engine works well. Just don't romp on the car till your up to operating temp, thats when bearings are spun.

Was thinking about grabbed a gauge pod for the Pillar and popping in a Voltmeter and Oil pressure Gauge. Wasn't sure about it but now I'm wanting to do it.

So many mods.. so little money. I think my first thing is I need to get my butt down to the Dyno and get my baseline numbers and work from there. As far as performance mods go.

-Dave

Wenuden · Post by **Wenuden** » Fri Jan 25, 2008 4:48 pm

you don't want that oil going back into your system. Once it goes into the catch can it gets vapors that filter thru it. When I empty mine it's always milky (no, my head gasket isn't blown).

Post by **occasional demons** » Fri Jan 25, 2008 9:01 pm

OB wrote: You have a 'cooler' in your crank ventilation stream? Please explain this.

Wenuden wrote:you don't want that oil going back into your system. Once it goes into the catch can it gets vapors that filter thru it. When I empty mine it's always milky (no, my head gasket isn't blown).

Yep, it's an ATF cooler from a radiator tank. I attached it so the nipples stick into the enginge bay and the cooler is in the cowl. It helps condense the water/oil vapor. I prolly get a good 4 or 5 oz. of water on top of 2 or 3 oz of oil per week in my catch can. It is always separated and not milky. You definitely don't want that crap going back in! The smell is wicked. Plus a small benefit of that much less heat going into the intake steam. the only drawback I've found is I have to keep it drained with the cold weather so the freezing water doesn't crack the can.

Here is an old pic. the catch can has been upgraded. The polycarbonate bowl didn't get along with the oil/heat.