taking rotors off
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neon angel
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taking rotors off
how do the non srt/rt rotors come off ? im putting on drilled and slotted rotors thanks
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- MyNeonSaysHi
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I don't know why...but I always go cross eyed when I have to put the caliper back on.
Just make sure and note which way the caliper goes on before you take it off. It'll save you a few minutes.
Just make sure and note which way the caliper goes on before you take it off. It'll save you a few minutes.
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- 2k1MotorSport
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silverneontuner
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yellowpatrol
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There's two bolts that hold the caliper on, and they screw out toward the engine, away from you (they're on the back)
FEEDBACK
Adionik wrote:On a 100% stock SRT engine i've seen detonation on 93 octane, I know what i'm talking about.
- MyNeonSaysHi
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Make sure to use anti-seize lube on the bolts for next time. If you live in an area where you get any sort of seasons, this thing will make your life so much easier next time you need to disassemble anything. I'd also recommend bleeding the brakes too, just because it is possible to burn the fluid over time and will give you a soft pedal. So while its apart you might as well. Another thing I found useful when doing brake jobs are Vice grips with the big open jaws that look like: [ ]. Use them to press the piston back into the caliper for easier reassembly and if it goes too hard or locks up before its all the way in, you know that you have a sticking/bad caliper as well.
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- kc2005ptgt
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oh, and my mechanic tells me unless something is wrong with your brakes, most brake fluids do not need to be changed or bleed... only if you start removing brake lines and what not.
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silverneontuner
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yellowpatrol
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I usually just use a flathead and gently depress the caliper. Just be careful so you don't scratch it all up, it's easier than a clamp.Dimas wrote:yea its really not hard at all take off the caliper bolts and I had to use a C clamp to depress the piston and whatnot, once thats remove just switch the rotors.
though for some reason I could not remove the rear rotors by hand so I had a mechanic do it w/ my parts.
FEEDBACK
Adionik wrote:On a 100% stock SRT engine i've seen detonation on 93 octane, I know what i'm talking about.
- TheNumberOneD
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racer12306
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c-clamp works good for me. I push on the old pad rather than the piston itself though. What is the 18mm wrench for? and I thought the caliper bolts had 10mm heads.
But yes, Andrew is right, no need for bleeding the brakes. Unless the system is opened up the brakes will never need to be bled
But yes, Andrew is right, no need for bleeding the brakes. Unless the system is opened up the brakes will never need to be bled
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- TheNumberOneD
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he doesn't want to take off just the caliper... he wants to take of the rotor...racer12306 wrote:c-clamp works good for me. I push on the old pad rather than the piston itself though. What is the 18mm wrench for? and I thought the caliper bolts had 10mm heads.
But yes, Andrew is right, no need for bleeding the brakes. Unless the system is opened up the brakes will never need to be bled
unless off course the sxt is completely different from the SRT...
then that'll make me the retard...
~Daniel
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racer12306
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You need to take the caliper off of any car in order to remove the rotor.
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racer12306
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Ok, then the SRT is different. The SRT must have a similar caliper as our Jeep Grand Cherokee.
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- TheNumberOneD
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I'm in the process of doing my front brakes right now. Luckily I planned on replacing the rotors along with the pads instead of just turning the rotors because they were stuck the F%@$ on! I soaked every opening (lug holes, back of the rotor "hole", etc) with PB Blast and beat it with a hammer and pryed it with a pry bar. After 15-20 minutes of that it finally broke loose. Removing the caliper isn't hard though, Like everyone said there are 2 10mm bolt "pins" on the back-side of each caliper (one on top , one on bottom). Make sure not to wipe the white grease off of them, they need it. After removing the bolts, just use a flat-head screw driver to pry back the first end of the caliper (pass. side = top, driver side = bottom). The caliper should come off relatively easy without compressing the piston back in. Once you have the caliper off then I used a C-Clamp with the old inside pad still on the piston and slowly.gently (and right in the middle of where the piston is) compressed the piston back in to allow for the space taken up by the new pads.
This should only take about 30-45 minutes for someone who has done work on a car before. I'd suggest picking up a Haynes manual, it is very helpful for not just this, but prett ymuch everything you'll want to do maint. related to your car.
The rotors I used were the cheap OEM replacements from Napa (~$25/each, 2 year warranty) and the pads I used were the Duralast Golds (semi-ceramic) from AutoZone...$31 for the set, come with a lifetime warranty.
Hope that helped, unless you have already done the job, then I hope this helps someone else looking for answers before starting.
PS - hope I didn't mis-spell too many words, I didn't proof read.
This should only take about 30-45 minutes for someone who has done work on a car before. I'd suggest picking up a Haynes manual, it is very helpful for not just this, but prett ymuch everything you'll want to do maint. related to your car.
The rotors I used were the cheap OEM replacements from Napa (~$25/each, 2 year warranty) and the pads I used were the Duralast Golds (semi-ceramic) from AutoZone...$31 for the set, come with a lifetime warranty.
Hope that helped, unless you have already done the job, then I hope this helps someone else looking for answers before starting.
PS - hope I didn't mis-spell too many words, I didn't proof read.

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