drop time!!!!!!

preston75052 · Post by **preston75052** » Wed Apr 09, 2008 11:23 pm

i want to make my 2000 neon lowered and i want the frenders about a inch or a intch and a half front the wheels. what do yall think about that,bad idea or good idea.and thats all around too front and back.

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Thu Apr 10, 2008 12:07 am

Uh, sounds like a good idea.

Your sig is funny by the way.

Donkeypuncher · Post by **Donkeypuncher** » Thu Apr 10, 2008 2:55 am

Do you know much about lowering cars? I would say read though the posts on here and figure out what you want.

You could measure your wheel gap and see how much of a drop you need to hit a 1 to 1 1/2 inch gap. That will give you an idea of what springs you need. You will need springs, struts, and maybe camber bolts and shorter sway bar links.

Use the search and you'll find a wealth of info. There is post with pictures of drops and what setups they are, that might help you decide.

yellowpatrol · Post by **yellowpatrol** » Thu Apr 10, 2008 11:12 am

Eibach Pro Street Coilovers.
Modernperformance.com

greenneon · Post by **greenneon** » Thu Apr 10, 2008 6:18 pm

y0 brah drop dat biZnaTch leik 3 inchez anD gEt a sick wIdE bOdy KiT daWg

dun furget da NoS

Donkeypuncher · Post by **Donkeypuncher** » Thu Apr 10, 2008 6:22 pm

That's just mean

srtminime · Post by **srtminime** » Fri Apr 11, 2008 11:17 am

Mopar Springs will get you there...

ThrIsNoSpork · Post by **ThrIsNoSpork** » Fri Apr 11, 2008 11:27 am

greenneon wrote:y0 brah drop that biZnaTch leik 3 inchez anD gEt a sick wIdE bOdy KiT daWg

dun furget the NoS

dooo taht wid3 b0dy kitz makez y0 hp's go up to likez 300 y0!

daaboots · Post by **daaboots** » Fri Apr 11, 2008 11:29 am

ThrIsNoSpork wrote:
greenneon wrote:y0 brah drop that biZnaTch leik 3 inchez anD gEt a sick wIdE bOdy KiT daWg

dun furget the NoS
dooo taht wid3 b0dy kitz makez y0 hp's go up to likez 300 y0!

Jerome Adams · Post by **Jerome Adams** » Fri Apr 11, 2008 5:15 pm

greenneon wrote:y0 brah drop that biZnaTch leik 3 inchez anD gEt a sick wIdE bOdy KiT daWg

dun furget the NoS

ease up off the NOS that stuff is delicious...its like a party in my mouth, yo

srtminime · Post by **srtminime** » Fri Apr 11, 2008 5:48 pm

and everyones coming...

sorry, just had to...

preston75052 · Post by **preston75052** » Fri Apr 11, 2008 8:05 pm

i got a set of coilovers (dropzone) is that not good enough to get it lowered? why do i need all that other crap you was naming.

srtminime · Post by **srtminime** » Fri Apr 11, 2008 10:38 pm

The only "crap" I mentioned was the cheapest way to get there with nice springs to boot. Why you spend so much?

Jerome Adams · Post by **Jerome Adams** » Fri Apr 11, 2008 10:54 pm

lowering your car effects the suspension geometry and your alignment. You will need the camber bolts to get the car aligned after you lower it. You will need short end links to relieve the added stress you have put on your sway bar(s) by lowering your car...

preston75052 · Post by **preston75052** » Sat Apr 12, 2008 1:51 pm

sway bars is added already,what is camber bolts,please explain.thanks

srtminime · Post by **srtminime** » Sun Apr 13, 2008 6:10 pm

They're eccentric bolts, meaning the middle is the correct size as stock, but the ends are smaller and offset to one side. That way you can rotate the bolt in the knuckle, while the strut moves in and outbard.

Any decent tire shop should have them, or order them online if you lower your car more than an inch and the bodyshop refuses to install parts not purchased through them.

preston75052 · Post by **preston75052** » Sun Apr 13, 2008 9:59 pm

so do i need the camber bolts,or can i just go without them.please let me know.thanks

srtminime · Post by **srtminime** » Sun Apr 13, 2008 10:04 pm

srtminime wrote:if you lower your car more than an inch

preston75052 · Post by **preston75052** » Sun Apr 13, 2008 11:11 pm

ok sorry lol but even if i just use my springs i still have too.i looked on ebay.com and typed in camber bolts and it doesnt look like these bolts need to be changed if i was to do the springs only.

and your talking about the 2 bolts that hold the strut and the knuckle together correct? thanks

srtminime · Post by **srtminime** » Mon Apr 14, 2008 11:54 am

Yep, those two bolts would be replaced with the "camber" bolts...

preston75052 · Post by **preston75052** » Mon Apr 14, 2008 4:40 pm

ok do i need to change the back bolts too? thanks

Donkeypuncher · Post by **Donkeypuncher** » Mon Apr 14, 2008 7:53 pm

Might as well change the rears while you're at it. The camber bolts are cheap so it's not like you out a bunch of money if you don't need them. You're lucky you have a neon, my avenger needed a control arm camber kit that costs $120 just for the front. And that was the cheap kit.

preston75052 · Post by **preston75052** » Mon Apr 14, 2008 8:15 pm

ok,i just dont understand why i would need to change the bolts,can anybody explain to me why they need to be changed if im lowering more than a inch with just springs.thanks!!

srtminime · Post by **srtminime** » Tue Apr 15, 2008 11:10 am

Holy triple post batman!

Just get 'em for $30 and then you can setup your alignment with a little fun added into it instead of the stock alignment settings...

aperson · Post by **aperson** » Wed Apr 16, 2008 12:01 am

You need camber bolts because when you lower the car, you introduce a lot of negative camber into the suspension geometry, that is bad for tire wear, braking, accelerating and all around handling. So you need camber bolts to bring the tires back into spec.

srtminime · Post by **srtminime** » Wed Apr 16, 2008 1:48 pm

since when is negative camber bad for cornering? If it was autocrossing neons wouldn't use 2.5+ degrees of negative camber in front...

If there's alot on the front it will affect Braking/Accelerating, but in the rear it just makes you step out quicker dialing in some oversteer. You can do it with tire pressure as well, but I'd rather keep my DD even PSI all-around with a dash of camber...

aperson · Post by **aperson** » Wed Apr 16, 2008 2:51 pm

I was assuming that he wanted to keep it as a DD in which case more camber wouldn't help during cornering unless you're driving it hard through some turns. For best DD performance you shouldn't have too much negative camber, otherwise you'll have a very small contact patch. The only time where you should really have more negative camber is during hard cornering. For a DD you'll want even tire wear for the most part, meaning as close to 0 camber as possible.

srtminime · Post by **srtminime** » Wed Apr 16, 2008 6:28 pm

Well, I run -.5 front (the most OEM allows) and nearly -1.5 in the rear (just outside of OEM) and since most of the work is done by the front end I see no abnormal tire wear on 240 Treadwear tires. I also rotate my tires at every oil change though so that probably helps. That setup makes braking and accelerating easy and keeps the car from being an understeering pig...

neon2ner · Post by **neon2ner** » Fri Apr 18, 2008 5:10 pm

holy beat my head off a brick wall batman.

yes, you need camber bolts. no questions asked, get them.

while you're at it, get better struts, your's will be gone in no time (if you bought the dropzone coilover "sleeves" that is).

or, if you want to be ridiculous, cheap out, just get the springs, blow your struts, and you'll be able to float over all the bumps. nothing rides quite like it.

Jerome Adams · Post by **Jerome Adams** » Fri Apr 18, 2008 6:36 pm

nah...just remove the springs and ride the bump stops...