how to keep my engine running cooler

krc21 · Post by **krc21** » Thu Apr 10, 2008 5:13 pm

i would really like to keep my engine running cooler. what are some ways to do this??? lol not sure if this is even a good question.. but i have known some neons to over heat.. i mean it runs fine and cool now stays right at the first mark on my temp gauge but i know thats 220 deg. just more question is there a way to do it?

Wenuden · Post by **Wenuden** » Thu Apr 10, 2008 5:35 pm

you can install a switch on the radiator fan control circuit to turn it on manually, there's a how-to around here somewhere.

You can also replace the thermostat with a lower-temp opening thermostat.

NickKo · Post by **NickKo** » Thu Apr 10, 2008 7:53 pm

It really shouldn't overheat, anyways.

Possible causes:

1). Air bubble trapped in the rad.hose

2). Stuck Thermostat

3). Plugged radiator

4). Needs Cooling system service.

A new radiator is probably what you need.

*IF* this does not solve your problem, then you may need a Power-Back-Flush of your cooling system.
During a power backflush, a radiator shop will remove the thermostat and then power-flush the system running it 'backwards'.
This will remove all kinds of crap from the cooling system that wouldn't come out otherwise.
From my personal experience, your car may put out more heat during the winter, besides running cooler in summer.

A reputable Radiator shop should be able to do this for you at a reasonable price, if this is what you need.

-Nick

asanti · Post by **asanti** » Thu Apr 10, 2008 7:54 pm

Get a 180* thermostat, and put a bottle of Redline water wetter in the radiator. I have that setup and my temps (well, reading the stock temp gauge) have dropped significantly. The needle rarely moves above the 1/2 mark between "C" and the 1st mark on the temp gauge regardless of how I drive.

Later
Allex

Post by **racer12306** » Thu Apr 10, 2008 7:56 pm

You don't want it too cold. You will lose engine efficiency. You won't gain any power from it either.

These engines were designed to run at 205 - 210*, which is what the first mark on the gauge is.

Post by **occasional demons** » Thu Apr 10, 2008 11:59 pm

Water wetter is good stuff. While it didn't really make mine run cooler, (kept the oem 'stat) the heater put out heat alot faster. Good surface contact FTW!

titansxt · Post by **titansxt** » Fri Apr 11, 2008 12:05 am

Ditto on the 180 t-stat.

Donkeypuncher · Post by **Donkeypuncher** » Fri Apr 11, 2008 12:42 am

Like racer12306 said, our engines are designed to run at an optimal operating temp. The ecu and fuel trim are programed for this range of temperature so it's probably best to leave it alone. I guess 180 isn't bad if you live in a hot southern state, but I would be hesitant up north in the colder temps.

Redline water wetter is a solid product, and probably all you really need after a good flush. I've used it on 4 cars and it made a noticable drop in temp and warm up times on all of them.

asanti · Post by **asanti** » Fri Apr 11, 2008 12:37 pm

Hmm, so NO to a 180* 'stat AND Redline

? Car's worked fine here in CT and YES I drove it all winter too with that setup. (I am running an AF/X-R PCM, maybe it compensated???) Well eitherway I'm going to be getting a new Griffin radiator soon, so I'll stick w/ a stock-type 'stat and Redline Waterwetter only.

Later
Allex

esteinmaier · Post by **esteinmaier** » Fri Apr 11, 2008 12:42 pm

In short, leave it alone. A colder thermostat won't do anything but make you run slightly richer and lose gas mileage. If you were detonating, it might be worth doing, but there's really no point if you're not.

titansxt · Post by **titansxt** » Fri Apr 11, 2008 12:47 pm

esteinmaier wrote:In short, leave it alone. A colder thermostat won't do anything but make you run slightly richer and lose gas mileage. If you were detonating, it might be worth doing, but there's really no point if you're not.

Blah blah blah. I still say get the 180 so you can say you did a mod.

Keep the stocker and drive for a month with the 180 then swap the OEM back in and drive again for a month and figure out your MPG for the month.
PS when you install a new T stat you have to purge the system, or so I have heard.

esteinmaier · Post by **esteinmaier** » Fri Apr 11, 2008 1:33 pm

titansxt wrote:
esteinmaier wrote:In short, leave it alone. A colder thermostat won't do anything but make you run slightly richer and lose gas mileage. If you were detonating, it might be worth doing, but there's really no point if you're not.
Blah blah blah. I still say get the 180 so you can say you did a mod. Keep the stocker and drive for a month with the 180 then swap the OEM back in and drive again for a month and figure out your MPG for the month.
PS when you install a new T stat you have to purge the system, or so I have heard.

Post by **Diablo0** » Fri Apr 11, 2008 1:40 pm

Like racer12306, Donkeypuncher, and esteinmaier have said, it won't get you anything. The engine is tuned to run at 195-210F, trying to make it colder will make the computer add fuel to try and warm it up to the operating temp causing you to lower your gas mileage and run richer.

titansxt · Post by **titansxt** » Fri Apr 11, 2008 3:24 pm

esteinmaier wrote:
titansxt wrote:
esteinmaier wrote:In short, leave it alone. A colder thermostat won't do anything but make you run slightly richer and lose gas mileage. If you were detonating, it might be worth doing, but there's really no point if you're not.
Blah blah blah. I still say get the 180 so you can say you did a mod. Keep the stocker and drive for a month with the 180 then swap the OEM back in and drive again for a month and figure out your MPG for the month.
PS when you install a new T stat you have to purge the system, or so I have heard.

lol, glad you liked it.

Oh and blah blah blah.

Diablo0 wrote:Like racer12306, Donkeypuncher, and esteinmaier have said, it won't get you anything. The engine is tuned to run at 195-210F, trying to make it colder will make the computer add fuel to try and warm it up to the operating temp causing you to lower your gas mileage and run richer.

I still say you do a comparison!

asanti · Post by **asanti** » Fri Apr 11, 2008 4:14 pm

Well slap me in the forehead and call me a Neon Noob!

That might explain the rich code that's been in the car since last year when we installed everything in 1 shot (head, cam, cam gear, 180* tstat, blah blah blah

). All this time I'm blaming the 14 cam..... I'll let you guys know how everything goes once I get the new radiator and install it...

Later
Allex

NickKo · Post by **NickKo** » Sat Apr 12, 2008 4:00 pm

occasional demons wrote:Water wetter is good stuff. While it didn't really make mine run cooler, (kept the oem 'stat) the heater put out heat alot faster. Good surface contact FTW!

AMEN.

Agreed.

This has been my own experience with Water Wetter.
It helps with the heat transfer from the engine block..... so it stands to make sense that your heater core would put out more heat in winter.

Great stuff !!

-Nick