UDP Troubles - Fixed and with Pics

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ZeroChad
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UDP Troubles - Fixed and with Pics

Post by ZeroChad » Tue Apr 22, 2008 10:50 am

So I rented a chrystler harmonic puller from autozone last night. I think they overcharged me on the deposit. $63 seems pretty steep. I figured I'd get it back though so what the heck. Got home and I went to town on it.

The belts came off easily. The plastic gaurd is a PITA though. Unscrewed the crank bolt and took out the puller. So I set it up right and used the longer extention in the crank bolt hole. Turns out I didn't have a 22mm socket or whatever it takes so I had to use channel locks to turn it. Not a big deal, but after about and 1.5in of turning I hear a loud POP!!


Oh crap! What did I do! I took the puller off, and the extention had blown a hole into the bottom of the puller bolt. WTF?! :cussing:

Heres a pic of what the puller looked like.
Image
I was pretty pissed off. I'm really hoping I can get my deposit back.

ARGH. I'm just going to have someone put it on today. Its not worth anymore hassle.
Last edited by ZeroChad on Tue Apr 22, 2008 11:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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ZeroChad
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Post by ZeroChad » Tue Apr 22, 2008 11:34 am

Just got off the phone with the dealer.... There is no way I'm dropping $183 for a pulley install. Looks like I need to find another puller.
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Passt
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Post by Passt » Tue Apr 22, 2008 1:13 pm

;;
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Jamie
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Post by Jamie » Tue Apr 22, 2008 2:05 pm

for another 20 you could have bought one from sears... with a warranty. you said the rod pushed throw the screw part that the push rod sits in???

im fighting the pully battle myself. after two busted , excuse me, exploded pullers, im on my way up to sears to get one that looks like that. just not the maker that you got... that sux man

good luck
J :rockon:
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Post by latief » Tue Apr 22, 2008 2:17 pm

i had an autozone rental tool die on me, they replaced it no questions asked, i would think they will do that for you.....

good luck,

ZeroChad
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Post by ZeroChad » Tue Apr 22, 2008 3:55 pm

Jamie wrote: you said the rod pushed throw the screw part that the push rod sits in???
Unless there was an indent there already that held the pushrod inside of the driving bolt. Its like the rod goes over half way into the driving bolt now. It seems strange that the bolt would be made hollow. I'll take a pic when I get home.
had an autozone rental tool die on me, they replaced it no questions asked, i would think they will do that for you.....
Thanks, I think I'll bring it back today and see what they say.
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Post by Jamie » Tue Apr 22, 2008 4:02 pm

just went to sears and got a "posi lock" gear puller model 104... that thing is the sex... 80 bucks which was reasonable. got it home 20 minutes ago, and my pulley off ten minutes ago! the arms fit perfect in the indentions on the back of the pulley, and the cage kept the jaws centered for a strait pull...

good stuff!

good luck, autozone is usually pretty good about stuff like that.
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Post by lilolneon » Tue Apr 22, 2008 5:18 pm

I rented one from autozone like you did at first, the bolt has a big hole/indent in the center for the rod to sit in, the loud pop you heard, I heard several times, it is just the metal of the pulley starting to come loose from the shaft. although the rods that came with the pulley werent quite as long as i needed, I went to home depot and cut a steel rod (same diam. as the chrys ones.) and used it to finish the job, took the puller back to autozone and got my money back when I finished.

Just make sure you seat the UDP FULLY on there. The belts were squeaking and the belts were slightly off because of it. I didnt have mine fully seated apparantly, and had to have the dealership re-seat it for me for 50 bucks. At first they thought it was the idler pulley until they checked the UDP.
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Post by occasional demons » Tue Apr 22, 2008 10:51 pm

As far as getting the pulley back on:
occasional demons wrote:This is the stuff I bought for reinstallation, if there is any interest:
1 99055A135 1 Each Metric Class 8.8 Plain Steel Threaded Rod, M12 Size, 1 Meter Length, 1.75 Mm Pitch
2 60715K11 1 Each Steel Ball Thrust Bearing, For 1/2" Shaft Diameter, 1-7/32" Od, Shielded
3 91005A038 1 Each Metric Black-oxide Steel Flange Nut, M12 Screw Sz, 1.75mm Pitch, 19mm W, 17mm H O’all

Worked very well.
All the Items are from Mc Master Carr http://www.mcmaster.com/ but you could prolly get a damper installer for a little more $ This woked well tho. You don't have to worry about stripping the crank threads this way. just thread the rod all the way in for full engagement.

But then again this is the closest thing Summit has for metric and the threads are the wrong pitch. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... w=32&N=700+
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Post by Donkeypuncher » Tue Apr 22, 2008 11:04 pm

After reading this, I'm really not excited about changing the timing belt. This is the same problem that has come up a hundred times on the avenger boards. Usually it's the bolt is too large for the pulley to fit over, so it puts enough stress to break the puller. Most people end up buying the chrysler specific puller, or just use the stock bolt and slowly back the pulley off slowly until they can just pull it off.


I see bloody knuckles and yelling profanities in my future.

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Update.

Post by ZeroChad » Tue Apr 22, 2008 11:41 pm

Ok so apparently I'm retarded. It is finally installed! :tardbang: I made it a lot harder than it should have been. I guess thats what you get when you are more electrically inclined than mechanical. Oh well, at least I learned something.
Image


As lilneon said, the bolt was in fact not broken. The sound that I was hearing was the jaws slipping off of the inside of the pulley. This turned out to be the hardest part of the install. For future reference, if you stick a screw driver behind each jaw in the hole, it prevents them from popping out. This may only be a problem on older 2gns like mine where things tend to not want to move without persuasion.

It is necessary to use an extension. I would probably go by Ocassional's advice and order those parts through McMaster-Carr if I did this again. What I did was get a similar diameter rod from Home Depot which turned out not to be strong enough, see below. You should really start with the rod that comes with the kit and then progress to the weaker rod (if you do it this way).
Image

Here is a comparison between the two pulleys.
Image


Anyway, thanks for the help once again guys. 2gn is an invaluable resource.
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lilolneon
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Post by lilolneon » Wed Apr 23, 2008 2:53 pm

glad you got it on, i did the same with the rods too. used the one that came w/ the puller untill it wasnt enough, then went to home depot and made a lil longer one. Cept, the one I made, survived the torture :lol:
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Post by ZeroChad » Thu Apr 24, 2008 8:46 am

Noooo I lost power steering on my way to work today! The belt slipped off. Geez turns out the belt fits on all the pulleys right, but rests half way off the idle tensioner.

Well looks like its time to reseat the pulley tonight. I'll try some ice on the crank snout thigs time too. Man I'm gunna be a belt ninja when this is all done.
Last edited by ZeroChad on Thu Apr 24, 2008 11:06 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by nate-00neon » Thu Apr 24, 2008 10:38 am

lol wow you guys are starting to scare me with all of this.....
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Post by Ntyvirus1 » Thu Apr 24, 2008 11:01 am

:withstupid: everyone talks about gettin a UDP but i didnt know it was gunna be such a PITA to install

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Post by ZeroChad » Thu Apr 24, 2008 11:16 am

Meh, this is really the worst case senario. I just didn't get the pulley on all the way. I thought I did, but I didn't look at how it was making contact with the tentioner.
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Post by lilolneon » Fri Apr 25, 2008 3:19 pm

ZeroChad wrote:Meh, this is really the worst case senario. I just didn't get the pulley on all the way. I thought I did, but I didn't look at how it was making contact with the tentioner.
Again, same thing I had a problem with :lol: cept im lucky, I didnt have my belt slip off. Took it to the dealership tho because of horrible belt squeaking, and they re-seated it for me. think it cost like 50 bucks or so. (i didnt feel like screwing with it anymore)
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Post by ZeroChad » Fri Apr 25, 2008 3:57 pm

Wow, all is fixed and working great! Oven @ 430F this time WD40 and ice on the snout and she slid on perfectly. The pulley that is ;-)

Feels a lot better now. There was probably tons of friction before from the misalignment. Low end torque is pretty amazing now. Was it worth all the pain and problems. Hell yes! Don't have one, then go get one. This is pretty much the worse that could happen.

On the mpx removal, a Craftsmen steering wheel puller worked great. The tapped hole size is 5/16-18

On a side note, I found some play in my sts today. Thought it was my boogers. Turns out the rod is coming unwelded from the folcrum ball. :-!
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Post by Danteneon » Fri Apr 25, 2008 4:05 pm

Glad to hear you got it sorted out :thumbup: I want a udp sooo bad :(

But that is teh suck on your shifter :shock:
If I could just figure out how to meld the Outback and the Neon into one car...

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Post by ZeroChad » Fri Apr 25, 2008 5:56 pm

Yeah, I was happy not to see a CEL. Dang 02s. But its the best year ya know? Just got an email from Chuck aka "Maddog" He's shipping out a replacement rod tomorrow with a reinforced weld. What a cool guy.
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Post by Danteneon » Fri Apr 25, 2008 6:02 pm

Nice. Good customer service there.

And yes, '02's rock! :rockon:
If I could just figure out how to meld the Outback and the Neon into one car...

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Post by preston75052 » Wed May 07, 2008 11:13 pm

dam im scared now,i just bought one :dontknow:
does it really gain much horse power :thumbup:
don't let the size fool you,its not the car its whats under the hood....
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Post by ZeroChad » Thu May 08, 2008 6:44 pm

It definitely pulls through the gears quicker and smoother.
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