
front pass control arm bushing = dead?
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1/2 Scottish
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front pass control arm bushing = dead?
So, while rotating tires i noticed this after the control arm was hanging down after the tire was off. Looks like the bushing is split, time for replacement?



'03 Sxt mtx - Totaled
R/t axle-back exhaust, Booger Bushings.
- BlackRoseRacing
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the bad bushing is a common failure with 2GN's and PT's...
The control arm will move forward and backwards when they fail, as a matter of fact I'm going to be installing a pair in about 1hr on someone else's car. Don't purchase the Mopar 4656012AF's, mine failed in 2years, get the TRW replacements, there available at most auto parts stores and have a lifetime warranty
The control arm will move forward and backwards when they fail, as a matter of fact I'm going to be installing a pair in about 1hr on someone else's car. Don't purchase the Mopar 4656012AF's, mine failed in 2years, get the TRW replacements, there available at most auto parts stores and have a lifetime warranty
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1/2 Scottish
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Hey I might be doing this soon as well, my left front clunks when going over certain bumps at low speed, but thats probably because I can't hear them at speed. I'll be doing a complete suspension overhaul though, strut tower bars, Prothane bushings all around and coilovers. I'll probably do it by the middle of summer.
kornholio788 wrote:Cops dont like it when you use their colors and make them blink on a regular basis.
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1/2 Scottish
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- hansken_yo
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Wow.... it must be that time of the year or something. Mine looks exactly like that. I get a lot of creaking/clicking/popping sounds and my alignment feels wishywashy every now and again. Energy Suspension Kit here I come 

| - John || Project Log || Official I'm Going To Drive My Neon Till It Dies Club #000001 |
Everyone knows that for breasts to be "perfect" they need to be within reach.
yes and your streering response will be a bit off too. The energy suspension bushings are a PITA to install so the easiest way to get them done is to just pull the control arms off (takes less than an hour or 2) and bring them to a shop to have them push out the old bushings and push in the new ones.
2002 Neon SXT Sold
2006 EVO MR Weekend Warrior
2003 SRT 4 DD
-Kevin

I prefer the torch method. But if you don't have them I can see the trouble. Also silicone spray should help them press in easier, you might have to use something petroleum based since they're poly bushings. I know if you use petroleum on rubber bushings they swell and get soft.
kornholio788 wrote:Cops dont like it when you use their colors and make them blink on a regular basis.
My CA bushings look just like yours, SHOT!
I'd say change the bushings, not the whole control arm. Unless the CA itself is broken, then buy a new CA AND the bushings. If you replace teh CA with the same "squishy" POS bushings you'l probably have the same problem in a few years. GO with the urethane bushings (Energy or prothane) and set aside a day to work on getting them changed, you might run into problems where it will take longer than you think.....isn't that how everything goes though?
I'd say change the bushings, not the whole control arm. Unless the CA itself is broken, then buy a new CA AND the bushings. If you replace teh CA with the same "squishy" POS bushings you'l probably have the same problem in a few years. GO with the urethane bushings (Energy or prothane) and set aside a day to work on getting them changed, you might run into problems where it will take longer than you think.....isn't that how everything goes though?

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1/2 Scottish
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01NeonSnooZer
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Hold yer horses a sec. If the ball joint is bad, you might wanna thing about replacing the whole control arm. It's kind of a gamble to press the old one out and a new one in as the end is kinda flimsy and might crack when you press the new ball joint in. At the dealer where I work, we just replace the whole thing so that the customer gets a new ball joint and new bushings. I have to replace both CA's on mine. I ran it up a curb and bent my wheels and they gouged a groove into the lower CA and I don't wanna risk it cracking there. Plus, having done that, there's a good chance I've screwed my ball joints up. I've already had to replace one hub bearing.
Food for discussion.
Food for discussion.
Last edited by 01NeonSnooZer on Fri May 09, 2008 12:55 pm, edited 3 times in total.
Gimme some chopsticks, I wanna eat rice!
- hansken_yo
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...And how much are control arms?

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01NeonSnooZer
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They're fuckin expensive. WHich is why I said to check the ball joints first. If they're not bad, just throw a set of bushings in them. And if you crack a lower CA replacing a ball joint, you need a new one anyways.
I think they're $225 a piece or so, your cost. Mine, they're like $115. But I work for Dodge.
I say E-Bay!
I think they're $225 a piece or so, your cost. Mine, they're like $115. But I work for Dodge.
I say E-Bay!
Gimme some chopsticks, I wanna eat rice!
- hansken_yo
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So I just want to make sure I've got all my ducks lined up here. There is a ball joint in that picture that uses bushings. If the bushings are gone it is most likely the ball joint is f*d up?

| - John || Project Log || Official I'm Going To Drive My Neon Till It Dies Club #000001 |
Everyone knows that for breasts to be "perfect" they need to be within reach.
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occasional demons
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The ball joint is what the steering knuckle is attached to on the opposite end of the LCA bushings in the picture. 01NeonSnooZer's post may have misled you a bit. Hope this clears it up. Not bashing 01NeonSnooZer here either.
Edit: It is still called a bushing even tho it looks like a ball. IIRC they are spherical bushings.
Edit: It is still called a bushing even tho it looks like a ball. IIRC they are spherical bushings.
Bill
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
- hansken_yo
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That clears it up a lot. I now know exactly what is being talked about. I'll double check mine.occasional demons wrote:The ball joint is what the steering knuckle is attached to on the opposite end of the LCA bushings in the picture. 01NeonSnooZer's post may have misled you a bit. Hope this clears it up. Not bashing 01NeonSnooZer here either.![]()
Edit: It is still called a bushing even tho it looks like a ball. IIRC they are spherical bushings.

| - John || Project Log || Official I'm Going To Drive My Neon Till It Dies Club #000001 |
Everyone knows that for breasts to be "perfect" they need to be within reach.
A lot of the "discount" on-line auto part stores have replacement control arms for around $100 each. Here is a place that has Mevotech replacement ones: http://www2.partstrain.com/store/index. ... 4294967264
Not sure about the quality, but they say "high quality factory replacement," but their opinion is bias. If you have the extra $26 I'd get the bushings and put them on the new CA right away, save you the trouble of doing in 2-3 years from now.
Not sure about the quality, but they say "high quality factory replacement," but their opinion is bias. If you have the extra $26 I'd get the bushings and put them on the new CA right away, save you the trouble of doing in 2-3 years from now.

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Just found a thread about Mevotech:
http://forum.2gn.org/viewtopic.php?t=31369&highlight=
http://forum.2gn.org/viewtopic.php?t=31369&highlight=

FOR SALE: NEW Electrical Autometer Phanton Oil Press. Gauge || Kato Combat" Body Kit (front needs some minor repair work) || Stock Taillights
WTB: Fuel Rail Cover, 2 Pod Full Pillar || Chrome Grill Piece (00-01) || Rearview Mirror w/ Maplights (need glass only) || 15: (5x100) "stealie"
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01NeonSnooZer
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I'll look it up in dealer connect tomorrow and see what it's call but yes, to be clear, the ball joint is what goes through the steering knuckle and if it's bad, then we just replace the whole control arm.occasional demons wrote:The ball joint is what the steering knuckle is attached to on the opposite end of the LCA bushings in the picture. 01NeonSnooZer's post may have misled you a bit. Hope this clears it up. Not bashing 01NeonSnooZer here either.![]()
Edit: It is still called a bushing even tho it looks like a ball. IIRC they are spherical bushings.
Gimme some chopsticks, I wanna eat rice!
No need...


The latest and greatest part # for the bushing is 4656012AF...MSRP $46.95 each
Or check out BRR's post about other replacements....
http://forum.2gn.org/viewtopic.php?t=54 ... &start=360


The latest and greatest part # for the bushing is 4656012AF...MSRP $46.95 each
Or check out BRR's post about other replacements....
http://forum.2gn.org/viewtopic.php?t=54 ... &start=360
If I could just figure out how to meld the Outback and the Neon into one car...


Amen to that!!billm0066 wrote:Dont forget some anti seize on the bolts.
EVERYONE should own one of they grey bottles with the brush! Best $6 I ever spent!

FOR SALE: NEW Electrical Autometer Phanton Oil Press. Gauge || Kato Combat" Body Kit (front needs some minor repair work) || Stock Taillights
WTB: Fuel Rail Cover, 2 Pod Full Pillar || Chrome Grill Piece (00-01) || Rearview Mirror w/ Maplights (need glass only) || 15: (5x100) "stealie"
