Black plastic stuff
Black plastic stuff
theres this black plastic stuff that people buy that comes in flat sheets, wrinkled on one side and smooth on the other. some people have used it to make gauge plates where the radio goes, other have used it for the retro fit hid headlight swaps. you can heat it up and "mold" it in shapes you want.
if you know what im talking about, what is called and where can i buy it.
if you know what im talking about, what is called and where can i buy it.
Joe
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- Swordfish2Cowboy
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It's probably Kydex or another thermoplastic, maybe Delrin, I'm not sure, but Kydex sounds to be the one. Both of these are more or less industrial use. I would look online at Grainger or McMaster-Carr.Swordfish2Cowboy wrote:I've never heard of Kydex being used for anything but gun holsters, but it fits the description.
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im looking to make something like this but much better.....

is "kydex" the stuff this is made from you think??

is "kydex" the stuff this is made from you think??
Joe
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theTeejmiester
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sheet ABS would also work.lots of companys make it with grain on one side and it is molded quite often with the audio crowd
http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=335&
dont know if it was u want but its an idea
http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=335&
dont know if it was u want but its an idea
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I like people who BUY a 10 sec car and then brag about it. Thats like hiring someone to bang your wife and then bragging about the kid
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I like people who BUY a 10 sec car and then brag about it. Thats like hiring someone to bang your wife and then bragging about the kid
yeah, ABS plastic, thats what I was thinking about....but I kept thinking AVS....thanks for the help. Now I just need to find some big enough.
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The open rear bumper will scoop air and act like a parachute, creating an area of high pressure under the rear of the car at speed, what the sheet is for is to close that parachute off so that the air just goes out the back.
kornholio788 wrote:Cops dont like it when you use their colors and make them blink on a regular basis.
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occasional demons
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Of course the exhaust will need re-engineered, or heat sheilds installed aroun where it goes through. Sweet idea tho! 
Bill
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Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
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Um, that's why I wrote that. Just stated it incase the rear exit wanted to be retained. Some venting holes would need to be added to expell heat build up, too. It might reduce the effectiveness of the design, but tho you can't really tell from the pic it appears that the front is open anways so a few holes would help let air out. while the pic don't show it it is assumed that it has a side exit exhaust before the tire. That doesn't leave many options if a quieter exhaust is desired. I guess a better option would be aluminium sheet for a rear exhaust setup, or metal inserts where the pipe(S) come out. cutting a hole in the rear fascia for a passenger side exit is an option too. But like it has been said before, sheeting the whole underside would get the best benefits.Swordfish2Cowboy wrote:If you'll notice, there isn't an exhaust in that picture.
Bill
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
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Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
i have a side exit, so ill be fine. the pic i posted is kinda plan, ill be adding defusers(sp) to it. i should be ordering mats in a few days.
Joe
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racer12306
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IIRC kydex is some serious stuff. Has a flammability of 94-5V (very high)
Sheet ABS would be more than sufficient.
Sheet ABS would be more than sufficient.
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thats $500!!! I can make mine for way less and it will work the same.Diablo0 wrote:http://www.ramseyfamilyracing.com/srt4/ ... ffuser.php
thanks for the link though.
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- Swordfish2Cowboy
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Depends. You could mold it around an exhaust and it would stand up. Well, maybe. The guy I know who makes holsters says he basically uses a toaster oven to heat the stuff up.racer12306 wrote:IIRC kydex is some serious stuff. Has a flammability of 94-5V (very high)
Sheet ABS would be more than sufficient.
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A flammability rating is based on a piece of material being exposed to a specific heat flame at a specific distance for a specific time. Depending on the rating it is trying to achieve, the material can melt, but it can't catch fire.
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no disrespect to anyone but i have been laughing at the price tag of that thing since i saw it earlier today. Personally, i would rather make one out of aluminum. It can be fabricated cheap and easily. If you want to add your own fins, you can easily make them out of sheet aluminum and rivet them to your fabbed to the base of the difusser. Infact, this seems to be exactly what RFR is doing here.aperson wrote:So some kydex mixed with aluminum heat shield should yield some decent results right? Or should I just go with aluminum throughout?
edit: have a look at this other one they have. You can clearly see that all they are doing is riveting slices of angled aluminum to the base.

- Swordfish2Cowboy
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Well they've got to make money somehow. Nowadays that usually means screwing over people. Sometimes prices are legit because of the time spent machining the first one up to spec, or materials used, or whatever. But $500? LOL
Also, I wonder if you can modify one to fit flush with a lip kit. I haven't put my rear on yet so I don't know if there's an overhang like there is in the front.
Also, I wonder if you can modify one to fit flush with a lip kit. I haven't put my rear on yet so I don't know if there's an overhang like there is in the front.
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The voices kept telling them: if you make it, people will buy it!
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Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
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Best bet for now...ABS.
1) it's cheap, if you make a boo-boo throw it out and make another
2) easy to work with/mold/cut
3) heat isn't an issue with your side-exit exhaust so sheilding is not needed
4) relatively light and stiff
5) can sport it around for a test and if you want to upgrade materials later you've got the prototype to work from.
Cool, idea, good luck!
(I've used a fiberglass sheet too that worked pretty good on the front of a friends car, super light and because of the small area was pretty stiff. You might have to run some support strips for an area that big though.)
1) it's cheap, if you make a boo-boo throw it out and make another
2) easy to work with/mold/cut
3) heat isn't an issue with your side-exit exhaust so sheilding is not needed
4) relatively light and stiff
5) can sport it around for a test and if you want to upgrade materials later you've got the prototype to work from.
Cool, idea, good luck!
(I've used a fiberglass sheet too that worked pretty good on the front of a friends car, super light and because of the small area was pretty stiff. You might have to run some support strips for an area that big though.)

Oversteer is when you hit the wall with the back of the car. Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Horsepower is how fast you're going when you hit the wall, and torque is how far you drag the wall with you.



