idle problem #2
idle problem #2
okay guys....im having asimiliar problem but i dont think its the same as the prior post with the similiar name....my problem is that at Idle ( around 700RPM, if i turn on the a/c...my engine struggles a bit , even after some driving ...ive turned up the idle RPM to 850-900 RPM for now...but could this be part of a bigger problem.???? I have an AEM CAI and a MPx 60MM Throttle body ...ive had this set up for two years now and never had a problem till now...ill appreciate any help on this issue thanx....
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occasional demons
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By turning up the idle, I assume you did it by adjusting the throttlestop? Your pcm will just do it's best by closing the IAC valve some more. It can compensate for a pretty good vacuum leak, so cracking open the plate some more (within reason) is within it's capabilties to bring it down. It could be that your original low idle is from the IAC getting sticky or tired. Unfortunately the IAC isn't cheap. So buying a new one to see if it cures the problem is an expensive test. I don't think there are any $10 ones left on ebay.
I'm impressed they're still available: Ebay link
These are OEM superceeded units the same as what came factory. The newer parts have a different number or something, but these work very well. I can personally vouch for them. (currently using it on my car)They even have the Mopar number cast into the plastic end. The ones from your dealer will cost: $135.00 MSRP 5014116AA
Another option would be to push the pintle back and somehow shim it open with something that if it were to come loose it won't damage your engine. I did this when mine malfuctioned, but mine wouldn't idle below 4000 rpm with it plugged in. it would close with it unplugged, so I shimmed it open with paper till I got a decent idle. You will get a CEL if you unplug it. I had a CEL anyways, so it wasn't an issue for me. If it still half way functions then the paper won't be held in by the return spring pressure. Maybe some duct tape might hold for a while, but if it was me I would go for the ebay unit before I resorted to shiming it open.

I'm impressed they're still available: Ebay link
These are OEM superceeded units the same as what came factory. The newer parts have a different number or something, but these work very well. I can personally vouch for them. (currently using it on my car)They even have the Mopar number cast into the plastic end. The ones from your dealer will cost: $135.00 MSRP 5014116AA
Another option would be to push the pintle back and somehow shim it open with something that if it were to come loose it won't damage your engine. I did this when mine malfuctioned, but mine wouldn't idle below 4000 rpm with it plugged in. it would close with it unplugged, so I shimmed it open with paper till I got a decent idle. You will get a CEL if you unplug it. I had a CEL anyways, so it wasn't an issue for me. If it still half way functions then the paper won't be held in by the return spring pressure. Maybe some duct tape might hold for a while, but if it was me I would go for the ebay unit before I resorted to shiming it open.

Bill
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap