12v constant and 12v switched

krc21 · Post by **krc21** » Thu Jun 05, 2008 10:10 pm

ok i got my gauges today i need one source which is 12v constant and one that is 12v swithed.. preferably in the inside fuse box so i can use an add a fuse thing..

Post by **racer12306** » Thu Jun 05, 2008 10:20 pm

I used the orange illumination off of the HVAC panel for the light. i can't rmember which one, the orange with white or orance wire i used.

the cigarette lighter is a switch 12v

what is the constant 12v for?

krc21 · Post by **krc21** » Thu Jun 05, 2008 10:21 pm

this is because the gauges are 7 color changing so i will have to reset them everytime unless i have a constant...

Post by **racer12306** » Thu Jun 05, 2008 10:32 pm

how much current is needed?

krc21 · Post by **krc21** » Thu Jun 05, 2008 10:33 pm

12v i think.. it says constant 12v source.

Post by **occasional demons** » Thu Jun 05, 2008 11:04 pm

Current is amps.

I wouldn't think it would be hardly any if it's just for memory. Would suck if the gauges ran the battery down. An add a circuit would be fine for this. I can see the point of wanting to run from the interior fuse box: close to the pillar.
Fuses 14, 15, 16 are fused to the battery (constant). Positon 13 (not used) also fused B+ may have power there. An add a circuit may work in that hole, there would be just the hot side terminal to hold the adapter in place.
1 through 7 and 9 through11 are switched to the Ign.
8 and 12 have nothing, no conductors.
For the illumination follow racer12306's advice. should be just orange.
Edit: That is if they are dimmable. the orange a variable voltage for the HVAC and ATX shifter. The instrument cluster uses a red wire

krc21 · Post by **krc21** » Thu Jun 05, 2008 11:16 pm

huge help dude.. looks like ill be going and getting two add a circuts one for the constant and one for the ignition! thanks.

Post by **racer12306** » Thu Jun 05, 2008 11:26 pm

i remember i cut one and it was wrong, and it was the other one. i remember thinking it was wierd.

but if you cut the wrong wire, its just two crimps away from being a continuous wire again

krc21 · Post by **krc21** » Thu Jun 05, 2008 11:31 pm

i dont need illumination there always illuminated because they are tinted.. i have gauge over lays too my gauge cluster will be getting tinted as well..

krc21 · Post by **krc21** » Fri Jun 06, 2008 10:19 am

question... for the constant the 14 15 and 16 fuses are all over 10amp and the add a fuse is only 10 amp fuses.. so now what..

ZeroChad · Post by **ZeroChad** » Fri Jun 06, 2008 10:28 am

krc21 wrote:question... for the constant the 14 15 and 16 fuses are all over 10amp and the add a fuse is only 10 amp fuses.. so now what..

Just to make sure. Unless you are using a switch, the constant 12V circuits will illuminate your gauges even when there is not a key in the car. This will drain your battery at a decent rate, unless their led lit.

If you're looking to get a certain fuse rating for your gauge circuit, consider an inline fuse. In that case, you would tap in to the non-fused side in the fuse box. Tappin into the fused side would give you a somewhat false rating since the circuit that is allready using the fuse has an amp draw of its own.

krc21 · Post by **krc21** » Fri Jun 06, 2008 10:38 am

nope the gauges are specially wired.. they come pre wired so the illumination comes on at ignition and the constant is just for the memory..

Post by **occasional demons** » Fri Jun 06, 2008 11:51 am

Not sure what you're using for the add a fuse, but these don't come with a fuse, so you could put what you want in there. The 10 amp max should be fine, if thats what you're referring to. I doubt those gauges are going to draw much.

http://www.delcity.net/delcity/servlet/ ... 875&page=1

krc21 · Post by **krc21** » Fri Jun 06, 2008 12:22 pm

oh damn i get it now.. so i can put a 20 amp fuse in so that stays and then i can put a 10amp in the one with the wire from it..

Post by **occasional demons** » Fri Jun 06, 2008 12:33 pm

I would put a ten back in the slot that replaces the existing fusebox circuit, and a 5 or less in the Gauge circuit. I can't see them drawing more than a couple amps when in operation. If you have a multimeter, you could run the power through the meter to get the amp draw of the gauges. Then put a fuse in about 2 amps higher than that.

spencersummerfield · Post by **spencersummerfield** » Fri Jun 06, 2008 1:22 pm

use a fuse tap, and go from the ignition fuse, then you have 12V that will go off with the key.

Post by **racer12306** » Fri Jun 06, 2008 4:35 pm

what about the memory on the radio?

krc21 · Post by **krc21** » Fri Jun 06, 2008 4:54 pm

already got it.. i added two add a fuse works great.