what you need:
-2"x2"x1/4" angle iron (sold in 3 foot sections around here)
-something you can use to cut said angle iron (we used an angle grinder with cut off disc)
-drill with 5/8" drill bit
-4 (or more) 5/8"x1" bolts, with washers, lock washers, and nuts
-impact gun (makes this a whole helluva lot easier)
Look at your rear strut, where the bolts go though, there's a section about 2"x2.5" roughly. Make yourself a cardboard template and cut your angle iron so it will fit (pay attention to your bolt holes as well). Remove the two nuts, and slide the mount over. Use your impact to tighten the nuts down. If done right, the mount will bend a bit to fit the contour of the strut.
Remove the nuts, and take the mount back off. ( I imagine you can just tighten them once at the end if you want...)
Cut yourself another section of angle iron roughly 2 inches long, drill 2 holes in both pieces, and bolt them together. Measure to see where your sway bar mount will come to, and drill one last hole.
Bolt the mount to your strut, check your bolts, and install your sway bar to the mounts.
Sorry for the crappy picture, I'll take some better ones when I recheck everything this weekend.
I thought this was already posted once. Eh, regardless I can see some advantages over the strut mounted brackets. These can be made to be adjustable, so endlink length isn't an issue when lowering. (if they are installed before the car is lowered or is returned to stock height at a later time) Or if you wanted to play with the loading of the sway slightly. I wouldn't think a 1/4 inch or so out of non loaded state would harm it.
