Torquing the damper shaft nut????

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King Crab
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Torquing the damper shaft nut????

Post by King Crab » Tue Jul 15, 2008 11:59 am

I finally have all of the new parts for my long awaited lowering project, for this weekend. I have read over everything here on 2GN. and have gone over my Haynes manual 4 times. I believe I have everything covered, minus ONE......

And that's how (with the home made tool setup for removing the damper shaft nut) will I torque the damper shaft nut back to 55 ft-lbs / 70 Nm, when I have to hold the shaft with the 1/4 ratchet and tighten the nut with the 13/16 socket? How will I get my torque wrench on this?

Here are some pictures to help explain what I'm seeing and talking about:
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Or am I just going to tighten it up by feel?

Any help would greatly be appreciated.

Thank you in advance!
~David~
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hansken_yo
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Post by hansken_yo » Tue Jul 15, 2008 1:53 pm

since your using a ratchet on the top part you could buy an expander so that you could get the torque wrench to fit into the smaller tool....

Thats all I've got... I used a air gun to get it into position.
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| - John || Project Log || Official I'm Going To Drive My Neon Till It Dies Club #000001 |
Everyone knows that for breasts to be "perfect" they need to be within reach.

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Danteneon
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Post by Danteneon » Tue Jul 15, 2008 1:54 pm

You would loose some accuracy, but if you use a crows-foot wrench with a socket hex instead of the regular wrench, you could use your torque wrench :thumbup:

They look like this...

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If I could just figure out how to meld the Outback and the Neon into one car...

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King Crab
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Post by King Crab » Tue Jul 15, 2008 2:00 pm

Thanks to the both of you!!!! I now have a plan of attack. :thumbup:

If all goes as planned, I will finally be riding lower than stock this week end..... Wooo Hooo. :lol:
~David~
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03blackrt
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Post by 03blackrt » Tue Jul 15, 2008 4:41 pm

Since both wrenches share the same axes of rotation the torque will be the same for both, just opposite of each other. So... you can put the torque wrench on the 1/4" drive socket, it just has to go in the opposite direction of normal tightening. You'd essentially be measuring the counter-torque with the torque wrench.

King Crab
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Post by King Crab » Tue Jul 15, 2008 5:27 pm

Holy cow******* You, 03blackrt , are awesome. I knew that someone here would have a great solution. I can't believe I overlooked something so damn simple and obvious. :beatstick: I'm sure the other ways would have worked as well, but I have changed my course of action and will be doing it the way you've suggested.

I can't thank you enough.... :notworthy:
~David~
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03blackrt
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Post by 03blackrt » Tue Jul 15, 2008 10:19 pm

Yayyyy me!!! :cheerleader:

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hansken_yo
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Post by hansken_yo » Wed Jul 16, 2008 10:10 am

King Crab wrote:Holy cow******* You, 03blackrt , are awesome. I knew that someone here would have a great solution. I can't believe I overlooked something so damn simple and obvious. :beatstick:
*smacks head and blurts out "DuH!!!!!!" :tardbang:

Good suggestion 03blackrt.... and the best part is that its simple :thumbup:
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| - John || Project Log || Official I'm Going To Drive My Neon Till It Dies Club #000001 |
Everyone knows that for breasts to be "perfect" they need to be within reach.

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Danteneon
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Post by Danteneon » Wed Jul 16, 2008 5:34 pm

Wow...why didn't we think of that :beatstick:

Good looking out sir :thumbup:
If I could just figure out how to meld the Outback and the Neon into one car...

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