Removing engine help!
My Omni
The 550 lift cam kicked yet another rocker arm, so I had to leave it in front of the VFW. Went back less than 12 hours later and the car was gone. Tools, new drag radials, and more were out all out of sight, so they scored big on me 
If I could just figure out how to meld the Outback and the Neon into one car...


-
dodgeneonzl
- 2GN Member
- Posts: 226
- Joined: Wed Aug 22, 2007 5:56 pm
Hey guys, sorry about the late updates... anyway, I got everything pretty much bolted up and ready to start it... but i found 2 wires which i have no idea what they are... one of them is by the starter... i'm thinking it connects to the starter power wire? the connector itself is red, but the wire is black which makes me think it might be a ground wire? So i'm afraid to put it together with the red power wire for the starter... i included the message so if you guys can help me out that would be great!
Second wire, i have a connector right by the firewall on the top... i included the picture also... looks like a 2 pin female connector to me... but i couldn't find the male connector for it anywhere for it... hopefully you guys can figure out for me... i really wanted to get these two wires figure out because i'm ready to fire it up for the first time after these two are sorted out! Thanks guys!!!
Hopefully i can get it done today and get my exhaust pipes welded too!
Red wire by the starter



2pin female connector near the firewall... the inside is yellow in color.



Second wire, i have a connector right by the firewall on the top... i included the picture also... looks like a 2 pin female connector to me... but i couldn't find the male connector for it anywhere for it... hopefully you guys can figure out for me... i really wanted to get these two wires figure out because i'm ready to fire it up for the first time after these two are sorted out! Thanks guys!!!
Hopefully i can get it done today and get my exhaust pipes welded too!
Red wire by the starter



2pin female connector near the firewall... the inside is yellow in color.




The red connector does go to your starter. You put the main connection on first, then the smaller one (the one in question) goes next, then the nut. There should be a slot in the top of the first connector that the one you pictured will come out of and it will point upwards.
The second one...not sure. Maybe something either on the master cylinder or it may go lower to the canister purge solenoid.
The second one...not sure. Maybe something either on the master cylinder or it may go lower to the canister purge solenoid.
If I could just figure out how to meld the Outback and the Neon into one car...


-
dodgeneonzl
- 2GN Member
- Posts: 226
- Joined: Wed Aug 22, 2007 5:56 pm
- TheRandom1
- 2GN Veteran
- Posts: 9938
- Joined: Mon Jan 02, 2006 11:17 pm
- Location: Chicagoland
- TheRandom1
- 2GN Veteran
- Posts: 9938
- Joined: Mon Jan 02, 2006 11:17 pm
- Location: Chicagoland
TheRandom1 wrote:*ties penis in a knot*
Official "I drove my Neon till it died" member #??? Parted out the '01 so that she can live on through others! (Now driving + modding my '09 Chevy HHR SS!)


Mat00ES wrote:Find me a buyer and I'll sell some body parts for car parts.
- TheRandom1
- 2GN Veteran
- Posts: 9938
- Joined: Mon Jan 02, 2006 11:17 pm
- Location: Chicagoland
- TheRandom1
- 2GN Veteran
- Posts: 9938
- Joined: Mon Jan 02, 2006 11:17 pm
- Location: Chicagoland
- TheRandom1
- 2GN Veteran
- Posts: 9938
- Joined: Mon Jan 02, 2006 11:17 pm
- Location: Chicagoland
His fault he was trying to start his car and not partying in here...
Anyways, good luck starting the car dude, I hope it runs well for ya!
How long does it take to start a car and hook up the starter anyways? (assuming he didn't do it in that order, since that would be funny... but bad)
Anyways, good luck starting the car dude, I hope it runs well for ya!
How long does it take to start a car and hook up the starter anyways? (assuming he didn't do it in that order, since that would be funny... but bad)

Danteneon wrote:You doing this swap with your tech level is like asking a squirrel to land a 747.
-
dodgeneonzl
- 2GN Member
- Posts: 226
- Joined: Wed Aug 22, 2007 5:56 pm
WTF?!?!?
lol, j/k haha, i read you guy's post... dang man... I was hoping to have this as a guide for the minors who are starting to mod their neon! It's probably rated R now for this post :p... heh
Anyway, good news!! The car started up and runs good... but it's loud as hell as i cut the exhaust and haven't had it welded up yet...
First time starting it... it smokes a bit.... realize one of the wire got caught by the header and melted some of it...
Then after taking it away it stopped... I drove it from my old apartment to my new apartment by tying the exhaust to the body. So now I got the car in my apartment...!!! Woot!! who wants my old motor? lol...
Anyway, i still have quite a bit to do... including bolting up all the brackets and stuff, getting the seals back into the axles... etc... but it runs good! Just glad i didn't get a lemon motor... but then they're from LKQ, and they're a pretty good company. Anyway, i will keep you guys updated... once everything completed, i will take a video of how it runs and everything!!
Oh, by the way danteneon, that one plug that i was asking about... it was for the plug that was behind the battery... i think it's like the battery temperature sensor or something like that... not sure if yours have one, but mine does. Ok, back to working on the car... keep you guys updated!!
P.S. Thanks for all the help and encouragement guys! Glad i swapped out the motor instead of getting a new car! I love my neon!
lol, j/k haha, i read you guy's post... dang man... I was hoping to have this as a guide for the minors who are starting to mod their neon! It's probably rated R now for this post :p... heh
Anyway, good news!! The car started up and runs good... but it's loud as hell as i cut the exhaust and haven't had it welded up yet...
First time starting it... it smokes a bit.... realize one of the wire got caught by the header and melted some of it...
Then after taking it away it stopped... I drove it from my old apartment to my new apartment by tying the exhaust to the body. So now I got the car in my apartment...!!! Woot!! who wants my old motor? lol...
Anyway, i still have quite a bit to do... including bolting up all the brackets and stuff, getting the seals back into the axles... etc... but it runs good! Just glad i didn't get a lemon motor... but then they're from LKQ, and they're a pretty good company. Anyway, i will keep you guys updated... once everything completed, i will take a video of how it runs and everything!!
Oh, by the way danteneon, that one plug that i was asking about... it was for the plug that was behind the battery... i think it's like the battery temperature sensor or something like that... not sure if yours have one, but mine does. Ok, back to working on the car... keep you guys updated!!
P.S. Thanks for all the help and encouragement guys! Glad i swapped out the motor instead of getting a new car! I love my neon!

- TheRandom1
- 2GN Veteran
- Posts: 9938
- Joined: Mon Jan 02, 2006 11:17 pm
- Location: Chicagoland
Thats great news! Congratz on a job well done
And just think about how much you have learned from this experience. It makes the next one easier
Oh, and no, I don't have a battery temp sensor on mine. I keep forgetting about those on these cars
And just think about how much you have learned from this experience. It makes the next one easier
Oh, and no, I don't have a battery temp sensor on mine. I keep forgetting about those on these cars
If I could just figure out how to meld the Outback and the Neon into one car...


- TheRandom1
- 2GN Veteran
- Posts: 9938
- Joined: Mon Jan 02, 2006 11:17 pm
- Location: Chicagoland
Awesome work on gettin it started and driving!
The only thing that concerned me after reading was THIS:
IIRC if you drove the car without the axle seals in place, wouldn't you have dumped out the trans fluid out all over the place? Or even risk ruining the axles themselves!? I could be wrong (at work running on only 5hrs of sleep FTL) but I'd HATE to see you have another problem after you've just done all this work bro.
Later
Allex
Anyway, i still have quite a bit to do... including bolting up all the brackets and stuff, getting the seals back into the axles... etc...
IIRC if you drove the car without the axle seals in place, wouldn't you have dumped out the trans fluid out all over the place? Or even risk ruining the axles themselves!? I could be wrong (at work running on only 5hrs of sleep FTL) but I'd HATE to see you have another problem after you've just done all this work bro.
Later
Allex
Official "I drove my Neon till it died" member #??? Parted out the '01 so that she can live on through others! (Now driving + modding my '09 Chevy HHR SS!)


Mat00ES wrote:Find me a buyer and I'll sell some body parts for car parts.
-
DoubtedNeon
- 2GN Member
- Posts: 1483
- Joined: Mon Jun 16, 2008 5:28 pm
- Location: Larsen, Wisconsin, 54947
wow i was following this to the end, sweet im so glad ur neon is back in the game! time to abuse another engine! 

Swordfish2Cowboy wrote:They left a pry bar? Well get the prints like they do on CSI, and track those fuckers down. Then cap them.
grindpunk16 wrote: You and about 2 dozen other folks want that cover. It came with the car, and it's all mine..![]()
![]()
- jonnymopar
- Junior Admin
- Posts: 3039
- Joined: Sat Nov 19, 2005 7:49 pm
- Location: Southeastern MA
How did it feel driving it? Was there any vibration/clicking from that driver's side axle? If not, you should be good, at least for a while.
Congrats!
Congrats!
Jon J.
2003 Neon SXT - new home, new owner. Thanks for everything, old friend.
1989 Daytona ES - 2.4L/A555 swapped
Official "I'm Going To Drive My Neon Until Jerry Buys It" Club Member #11
-
occasional demons
- Junior Admin
- Posts: 20067
- Joined: Thu May 03, 2007 12:14 pm
- Location: Ashland Ohio
Actually the pre-NGC use the AIT sensor as the battery sensor also. Unplug it and your battery light will come on! Multi tasking FTW! Not sure on their logic with the temp sensors, my 99 XJ has the separate sensor under the battery.Danteneon wrote:Thats great news! Congratz on a job well done![]()
And just think about how much you have learned from this experience. It makes the next one easier![]()
Oh, and no, I don't have a battery temp sensor on mine. I keep forgetting about those on these cars
Kinda flip flopping back and forth with the method.
I think he just needs the rubber boot around the cv joint. It will still sling grease, but for a short run...asanti wrote:Awesome work on gettin it started and driving!The only thing that concerned me after reading was THIS:
Anyway, i still have quite a bit to do... including bolting up all the brackets and stuff, getting the seals back into the axles... etc...![]()
IIRC if you drove the car without the axle seals in place, wouldn't you have dumped out the trans fluid out all over the place? Or even risk ruining the axles themselves!? I could be wrong (at work running on only 5hrs of sleep FTL) but I'd HATE to see you have another problem after you've just done all this work bro.
Later
Allex
Bill
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
-
dodgeneonzl
- 2GN Member
- Posts: 226
- Joined: Wed Aug 22, 2007 5:56 pm
Sorry about the late update guys... been messing around with the car and driving around for a little bit... dang... it's been about 3 months now since i've driven it for the last time. I remember it was just the beginning of summer when i got water in it... and now i guess it's the end of summer that i'm driving it... I guess my neon just like to stay put during the summer eh? 
Anyway, yeah, sorry, i do mean the CV boot... and dang... those grease really doesn't come off the hands after working on it. So I got those on, but i still have a couple of brackets which i think i'll just leave out... One of them was the piece of bracket holding the motor to the transmission at the back (i've look through it, it looks like i have enough bolts elseware and also the supporting collar bracket between the oil pan and motor to keep it in place),
and the other was the bracket for the intake manifold... I already had the one on the passenger side secured... and i don't think it's necessary to put the one on the driver side... the intake manifold isn't heavy anyway.
Finally, i didn't put on the bracket that was attached to the motor and the bottom bolt between the header and the cat because one of the 4 bolts (the bottom one, also the one that was needed to use the bracket) broke... so i can't use the bracket now... So, i guess the real connection between the block and the back exhaust pipes are the header bolts... Do you guys think it would be a problem for it in the long run? Also, is it possble to replace the bolt on the header where it connects to the cat? I mean i think it's welded into the header is it? or would it come out with a hammer?
Anyway, beside these problem... i don't have much else besides getting the water temperature wire hooked up... it broke when my batter hit it. Also, hooked up my gauges!!! Woot! I got the oil pressure and water temp gauges working... as for the oil temperature gauge... i might just get a voltameter instead since i can't think of another place to place a oil temperature sensor. (already used the back for oil pressure).
I'm try to get a camera and get a video clip of it soon...
P.S. I also put in the srt 4 leather seats!! and they feels good!
Anyway, yeah, sorry, i do mean the CV boot... and dang... those grease really doesn't come off the hands after working on it. So I got those on, but i still have a couple of brackets which i think i'll just leave out... One of them was the piece of bracket holding the motor to the transmission at the back (i've look through it, it looks like i have enough bolts elseware and also the supporting collar bracket between the oil pan and motor to keep it in place),
and the other was the bracket for the intake manifold... I already had the one on the passenger side secured... and i don't think it's necessary to put the one on the driver side... the intake manifold isn't heavy anyway.
Finally, i didn't put on the bracket that was attached to the motor and the bottom bolt between the header and the cat because one of the 4 bolts (the bottom one, also the one that was needed to use the bracket) broke... so i can't use the bracket now... So, i guess the real connection between the block and the back exhaust pipes are the header bolts... Do you guys think it would be a problem for it in the long run? Also, is it possble to replace the bolt on the header where it connects to the cat? I mean i think it's welded into the header is it? or would it come out with a hammer?
Anyway, beside these problem... i don't have much else besides getting the water temperature wire hooked up... it broke when my batter hit it. Also, hooked up my gauges!!! Woot! I got the oil pressure and water temp gauges working... as for the oil temperature gauge... i might just get a voltameter instead since i can't think of another place to place a oil temperature sensor. (already used the back for oil pressure).
I'm try to get a camera and get a video clip of it soon...
P.S. I also put in the srt 4 leather seats!! and they feels good!

-
dodgeneonzl
- 2GN Member
- Posts: 226
- Joined: Wed Aug 22, 2007 5:56 pm
-
occasional demons
- Junior Admin
- Posts: 20067
- Joined: Thu May 03, 2007 12:14 pm
- Location: Ashland Ohio
"Also, is it possble to replace the bolt on the header where it connects to the cat? I mean i think it's welded into the header is it? or would it come out with a hammer? "
It should pound out. If it is flush, then use a punch to push it out. they are just pressed in with splines.
PN# 6100 297 (4) BOLT AND CONED WASHER, Hex
Head, M8x35x17 ECB
They are interchangeable between the ecb and ech manifolds
It should pound out. If it is flush, then use a punch to push it out. they are just pressed in with splines.
PN# 6100 297 (4) BOLT AND CONED WASHER, Hex
Head, M8x35x17 ECB
They are interchangeable between the ecb and ech manifolds
Bill
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
-
dodgeneonzl
- 2GN Member
- Posts: 226
- Joined: Wed Aug 22, 2007 5:56 pm
ohhh... ok, thanks occasional daemon, but i think i might just leave it as it is... because taking a hammer in to pound out the lower bolt is impossible without taking it out... i was having trouble with just taking out the bolt when i tried to take the motor out last time... so i doubt i would be able to "pound" it out 

-
dodgeneonzl
- 2GN Member
- Posts: 226
- Joined: Wed Aug 22, 2007 5:56 pm




