!!!HELP WITH AFTER MARKET TEMP. GAUGE!!!

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socalwb
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!!!HELP WITH AFTER MARKET TEMP. GAUGE!!!

Post by socalwb » Tue Aug 26, 2008 2:18 am

I INSTALLED AN AFTERMARKET TEMP GAUGE THROUGH THE STOCK HOLE NEXT TO THE CAM SENSOR. BUT I USED A TEE SO THE STOCK SENSOR WOULD BE USED TOO, CAUSE I KNOW THE CAR WON'T RUN RIGHT WITHOUT IT. BUT NOW MY FAN DOESN'T TURN ON TILL 230 F BUT IT WILL DROP IT BACK TO 200 F BEFORE IT TURNS OFF. IS THIS NORMAL OR DID I DO SOMETHING WRONG? OR DO I NEED TO SWITCH AROUND THE POSITIONS OF THE STOCK AND AFTERMARKET TEMP GAUGES? PLEASE HELP!
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Wenuden
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Post by Wenuden » Tue Aug 26, 2008 2:58 am

depends on the driving conditions. 200ish is standard operating temperature. Dunno what temp the fan comes on at, but if you're in traffic or going slow 230 isn't unreasonable. If it's highway speeds, the temp should drop rather quickly when the thermostat opens (210? 220?).
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Swordfish2Cowboy
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Post by Swordfish2Cowboy » Tue Aug 26, 2008 3:51 am

CAPSLOCK IS CRUISE CONTROL FOR COOL.
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Post by patton98 » Tue Aug 26, 2008 7:49 am

i agree with wenuden...that car should run about 160 to 200 degrees my fans come on at about 210.....but like he said if ur running through town like light to light or behind another car ur prolly gonna overheat the motor and burn something up!
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Wenuden
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Post by Wenuden » Tue Aug 26, 2008 7:59 am

naw. Just adding a temp sensor isn't gonna fuck other stuff up, unless the tee fitting is like 3 feet long and places the stock temp sensor way outside the coolant flow. If you weren't overheating before, you'll be fine now. The aftermarket temp gauge is just more accurately degreed than the stock gauge. I'm pretty sure the stock thermostat is set for 210 or 220, which means there's no point for the fan to come on before that.
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socalwb
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Post by socalwb » Tue Aug 26, 2008 4:29 pm

when i tested it last night it was just a night time cruuise about 65 degrees outside, just driving around to make sure nothing leaked. then when i got home i let the car sit and idle til the fan came on at 230 degrees then it turned off bout 5 mins., give or take, at 200 degrees. i think what i'll do is switch the positions of the 2 sensors so that the stock unit is closer to the block in the tee fitting. do u think that will be better?
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Wenuden
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Post by Wenuden » Tue Aug 26, 2008 9:54 pm

I don't think anything is wrong...
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Post by racer12306 » Tue Aug 26, 2008 10:03 pm

that doesn't sound like too much of a stretch, but are you completly sure the aftermarket gauge is right?

water boils at 212*F
coolant/water mix boils a little higher

add a 16psi cap, which raises the boiling point one degree per lb of pressure, so it will raise the boiling point to around 230"F. The fan should kick on in the 215 - 220*F area.

stock neon thermostats are 195*F, some cars are even 205*F now.
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socalwb
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Post by socalwb » Thu Aug 28, 2008 3:16 am

well what i did now is just switched the positions of the stock and aftermarket units, now the stock reads fine, back to normal. but now the aftermarket one barely hits 190. now what lol!!!
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60trim
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Post by 60trim » Thu Aug 28, 2008 1:40 pm

Where do you have the aftermarket sensor placed now? What brand temp sensor/ gauge are you using?
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Post by occasional demons » Thu Aug 28, 2008 5:34 pm

A tee can be made to fit inline with the heater hose, just get the hot side. The coolant flows all the time (when running :roll: ) IIRC, so it is reasonably accurate. There isn't much heat loss in the short amount of travel.
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socalwb
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Post by socalwb » Thu Aug 28, 2008 8:58 pm

on top where all the brass fittings are is where thee aftermarket gauge goes in at the bottom is where the stock sensor is. the gauge is an equuis gauge. u can find them at checkers. i wanted something to match the stock gauge cluster. i think what i need to do is take that 90 degree elbow out and that will help it read more correctly...

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Post by racer12306 » Thu Aug 28, 2008 9:23 pm

How close to the exhaust does it run?

Is it mechanical or electric?
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socalwb
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Post by socalwb » Thu Aug 28, 2008 11:49 pm

its reallu not that close to the exhaust at all. to the right is the battery, and it sits right under the heater hoses. prob. doesnt go no more than 2in's back from the factory hole in the head.
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Post by occasional demons » Fri Aug 29, 2008 9:40 am

The ideal thing would be having the sensor bung brazed/soldered right to the metal heater tube that goes right by there. But that would also be a PITA.
Bill
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.

2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap

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