UDP question

Post by **occasional demons** » Thu Dec 11, 2008 10:58 pm

Oven is cheaper, but I was reinstalling the OEM, after a timing belt change. The oven would have gotten my ass kicked, and a need for the UDP. Burning rubber in the oven = PISSED OFF woman. Spending more $ on the neon = PISSED OFF woman.

Damn! it's a win, win!

Post by **racer12306** » Fri Dec 12, 2008 7:18 am

Burning rubber in the oven? why?

Post by **occasional demons** » Fri Dec 12, 2008 9:44 am

occasional demons wrote: but I was reinstalling the OEM, after a timing belt change.

Rubber elastomer ring would prolly catch fire/smoke like hell at 400ºF. It would prolly cause the bond to fail at the least. So don't try this if you are reinstalling the factory pully kids. That outer ring comming loose at speed won't be a good sound under the car.

It may handle 400º, but I'm not going to be the guinea pig!

Post by **racer12306** » Fri Dec 12, 2008 9:46 am

ahh, didn't realize there was a rubber ring on OEM ones. i don't think i heated mine up to 400. 250 maybe

Post by **occasional demons** » Fri Dec 12, 2008 9:55 am

250º may be safe as it prolly see's close to that under normal operating conditions, in warm climates. I was more likely reffering to the post in the link I provided:

ilpadrino wrote:Just an aside:

We also heated up the pulley. I brought my trusty toaster oven with me (since his was busted lol) and in his garage, we heated the pulley at 400 degrees for like 10 minutes. When he put it in, it just slid right in. He said if it wasn't heated, there woulda been some serious resistance.

Tho 10 minutes may be OK, but if you had gotten side tracked, it could be bad. God knows we never have distractions.

Post by **racer12306** » Fri Dec 12, 2008 10:03 am

Remember 400* in a toaster oven, isn't really 400*. Won't really go into detail as it may look bad on a company that I used to work for, but metalurgical results showed that 400* does not equal 400* in a toaster over, especially a bad one.

Danteneon · Post by **Danteneon** » Fri Dec 12, 2008 10:34 am

Everyone should have this tool...

Tool Number 6792
Your Price (USD) $37.47
Tool Name INSTALLER,CRANK SPROCKET
Description This special tool is used to install the crankshaft sprocket on 2.0, 2.4, 2.7, 3.2 and 3.5 Liter engines. NOTE: This hardened forcing screw may also be used to replace your original C-4685-C1 bolt. 1994 thru current

Post by **racer12306** » Fri Dec 12, 2008 10:35 am

heat > fancy tools

i could probably make one of those, hmmmmmmm

Post by **occasional demons** » Fri Dec 12, 2008 11:39 am

racer12306 wrote:Remember 400* in a toaster oven, isn't really 400*. Won't really go into detail as it may look bad on a company that I used to work for, but metalurgical results showed that 400* does not equal 400* in a toaster over, especially a bad one.

Yeah, I doubt the actual part even came close to that in 10 minutes time, even if the ambient temp had reached 400º
My luck I would have some other emergency happen and it would get left in there and the garage would burn down.

Edit:

Danteneon wrote:Everyone should have this tool...
Tool Number 6792
Your Price (USD) $37.47
Tool Name INSTALLER,CRANK SPROCKET

That isn't bad,as I paid nearly that for the parts from Mc Master, but does it have a bearing or is it metal to metal contact? Mine has a thrust bearing.

Arro · Post by **Arro** » Tue Dec 30, 2008 5:22 pm

Ok so another bump....

So I heat the pulley in a toaster oven (which I have)... then I slip it on. How do I tighten the pulley bolt, without the crank turning instead?

Danteneon · Post by **Danteneon** » Tue Dec 30, 2008 5:33 pm

Danteneon wrote:Everyone should have this tool...

Tool Number 6792
Your Price (USD) $37.47
Tool Name INSTALLER,CRANK SPROCKET
Description This special tool is used to install the crankshaft sprocket on 2.0, 2.4, 2.7, 3.2 and 3.5 Liter engines. NOTE: This hardened forcing screw may also be used to replace your original C-4685-C1 bolt. 1994 thru current

INSTALLATION
NOTE: Lubricate the threads of the M12 1.75 x 150 mm bolt using Mopar® Nickel Anti-seize Compound or equivalent, before beginning to press the damper on.

Install crankshaft vibration damper using M12–1.75 x 150 mm bolt, washer, thrust bearing and nut from Special Tool 6792 (Crankshaft Damper—Installation).
Apply Mopar® Lock & Seal Adhesive (Medium Strength Threadlocker) to vibration damper bolt. Tighten vibration damper bolt to 136 N·m (100 ft. lbs.).
Install accessory drive belts (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - INSTALLATION).
Install the accessory drive belt splash shield and lower vehicle.

I would say using an impact with a 100 ft lbs torque stick would be the easiest and smartest way. But I've seen them installed with an impact and no torque stick

Arro · Post by **Arro** » Tue Dec 30, 2008 9:49 pm

What about hand tools? Anyone done that? I don't have an impact gun or the electricity to power one. Nor did I buy that special tool because i ended up leaving the crank sprocket on. I just need to get the MPx UDP on now.

Post by **occasional demons** » Tue Dec 30, 2008 10:39 pm

If you are using the bolt that came out of your crank, heat the udp, slide it on as far as you can get it. Tap it with a block of wood in the center, if needed. the farther you get it, the less turning of the bolt will be needed. Once you get the bolt to where it makes contact, is when you need to hold the crank. IIRC you have an ATX, which leaves you without a way to "put it in gear, and lock the wheels." I would try a strap wrench around the udp. Chain Vise grips would be the best way, but they may damage the pulley. The V-grips worked nicely on the cam sprocket, but the "grooves" go across the face instead of with it. If the strap wrench (plus a cheater bar to help hold it) doesn't work IDK if removing the starter, and wedging something in the ring gear (teeth on flexplate) would hold well enough. That would be my last resort. (PITA)

Arro · Post by **Arro** » Wed Dec 31, 2008 2:49 pm

omg that sounds impossible/risky. I don't want to damage this thing. Hasn't anyone actually done this on an ATX without an impact tool?

I heated the pulley in the oven at 400 for a half hour almost... took it outside, and it slipped right on, but moments later it was there to stay

Put some blue thread lock on the crank bolt and got it in, too. It LOOKS like the pulley is all the way down, but torquing the bolt will make sure, right?

Ok so I really need to know how to torque this bolt down.

Post by **occasional demons** » Wed Dec 31, 2008 3:06 pm

If the belts all line up, it is prolly on all the way. Other than the strap wrench, the only other thing I can recommend is taking it to a shop and paying them $20 to ensure it is properly torqued. If they want more than that to tighten a bolt, then they are smoking something.
With the loc-tite it should be safe enough to take it a short distance to a service center. I just wouldn't drive it for 10,000 miles like that is all. I can't imagine it is going to slip. I think the bolt's main function here, is insurance.
Tho on the oem dampner, it won't safegaurd against the rubber bond breaking and the outer ring flying off! But you just eliminated that remote possibilty!

Arro · Post by **Arro** » Fri Jan 02, 2009 12:11 pm

Strap wrench FTW, thanks dude

Took two of us, one to hold the strap wrench, one to push the torque wrench, but it worked.

New belts went on perfectly, car started right up with no error codes, and feels strong as ever. Thanks to all