1500 is my migical number

drftz31 · Post by **drftz31** » Mon Sep 15, 2008 9:43 pm

i got a hook up on a sub and amp. I already have a sub sony xplode, kenwood amp 600 watts. Sounds great! Got another hook up, unknown amp, but its 950 watts and I upgraded the battery, it's not stock, but next size up. And I need to know if the alternator is strong enough to handle both amps together?
Grand total 1500 watts. Does anyone have a 2 amp setup and what is the wattage?

nineball · Post by **nineball** » Mon Sep 15, 2008 9:51 pm

i have 4x75 and 2x600 running and no problems, but i also upgraded the big 3, new stinger spv44 battery and a 120amp alternator.

Craz1000 · Post by **Craz1000** » Mon Sep 15, 2008 9:57 pm

i got 3 amps pulling 180A of raw power. with amps NEVER look at the watts because 90% of the time its a big fat LIE... ESPECIALLY with sony they are notorious with this. especially when considering a new alternator/battery you have to look at how much amperage your pulling not how many watts you are supposedly or actualy putting out

if you want me to calculate each amps REAL power output i need to know these things

1) how many channels
2) what fuse(s) dose it has
3) what is the efficiency rating

my02neon · Post by **my02neon** » Mon Sep 15, 2008 9:57 pm

I got 3 2500w mono blocks and 3 2200w subs and a 4ch 2000w with one yellow top, and i never had a problem.

P.S Each sub has its own amp

my02neon · Post by **my02neon** » Mon Sep 15, 2008 11:58 pm

Craz1000 wrote:i got 3 amps pulling 180A of raw power. with amps NEVER look at the watts because 90% of the time its a big fat LIE... ESPECIALLY with sony they are notorious with this. especially when considering a new alternator/battery you have to look at how much amperage your pulling not how many watts you are supposedly or actualy putting out

if you want me to calculate each amps REAL power output i need to know these things

1) how many channels
2) what fuse(s) dose it has
3) what is the efficiency rating

Thats only a lie if you get the knock off or low budget brands. But if you get crossfire, kicker, kenwood excelon,etc all you have to do is just read the box and what you'll be lookin for is the CES certified logo which tells you that the amp holds what its supposed too.

drftz31 · Post by **drftz31** » Tue Sep 16, 2008 12:23 am

thanks for everyone feed back. i forgot to tell everyone that i all so have three leds in the cups holds, along with an under dash kit. i have done all the work my self. but it should work on the stock alternator. i just dont want to burn it out. i wont be runining the whole system at it max. so it should be ok. thanks guys. ill post pix when im done with the new set up.

Craz1000 · Post by **Craz1000** » Wed Sep 17, 2008 11:17 am

my02neon wrote: Thats only a lie if you get the knock off or low budget brands. But if you get crossfire, kicker, kenwood excelon,etc all you have to do is just read the box and what you'll be lookin for is the CES certified logo which tells you that the amp holds what its supposed too.

yes and even so ive found that even they lie. which dosetn help the situation of finding a perfect sub.

wether they over-rate or under-rate thier amp dosent matter, the fact is that its not rated at what the box says. take my MRD-M605's for example. Alpine states that the amp is 600w RMS at 2ohms with 14.4v well doing the math and verifying it with my oscilloscope the amp was actually putting out 780w+. just that extra 280w will pop a sub or bump you up a class which is just as frustrating as getting an amp that dosent put out as much as it says and feeling like you just got Fu**** in the ass hardcore

NOBODY puts what the amp actually puts out on the box. if your a crap brand you blow that # up and use the fake watt rating to sell your amp. if your a quality brand you rate it VERY conservatively that way people dont bitch that they got ripped off and didnt get what they paid for and ruin your name to all thier friends.

and i say this being a CEA certified installer

my02neon · Post by **my02neon** » Wed Sep 17, 2008 5:00 pm

I myself look at the rms rating, but who here can actually put down 14v? I'm looking at getting an alternator from ohio generators, their expensive but good.

Craz1000 · Post by **Craz1000** » Wed Sep 17, 2008 6:04 pm

14v is actually very common on a new alt even stock. my 05 neon was putting out 14's untill the day i sold it 3 weeks ago.

the life of any alt usualls goes like this, 14.4v new, after a few months itll settle at 14v or 13.8v. after a good amount of years itll slowly start droping year after year untill its in the 12's and looses the ability to run the car

Jeremy M · Post by **Jeremy M** » Tue Sep 23, 2008 7:08 pm

Just remember that stressing your current 85a alt or w/e they put in the neons, chances are u'll be replacing it eventually, and perhaps some of your audio equipment as well.

I think u did the right thing by upgrading your battery upfront. Now run the system at the highest u put it at, turn the dome light on and headlights, do u get dimming?

or

get a DMM and hook it up to your battery while running ur system full tilt and watch ur voltage, if u can maintain 12.6+ volts, your fine.

Craz1000 · Post by **Craz1000** » Wed Sep 24, 2008 10:57 am

^ this is very true, im sure geting ahold of a may '05+ alt is pretty easy and really easy to swap. you can consider that too

glasjaw · Post by **glasjaw** » Mon Sep 29, 2008 12:04 am

Ive burned up 2 alternators running only 1000w rms, one stock and one 120amp. I dont know what reasons they failed but ive been told neons are kinda notorious for blowing them. Just a random fyi.

Craz1000 · Post by **Craz1000** » Mon Sep 29, 2008 10:12 am

LOL cause that MRP-M1000 puts out alot more than 1000w. and when your addessing concerns about the alternator you look at the amperage.

if i remember the neon requires all 85A that alternator puts out and they threw that 120a in may to problally fill orders. the thing is if you surpass an alts rating just by 10% your starting to cause damage to the alt. this is when and only when caps com in handy because they soften the blow the amps dish out at eash hit. yes it will still drain as much current, but instead of forceably pulling it out of the alternator and stressing out the diodes the amps pull it out of the caps and when those are drained they then start on the alt wich wont take the full brunt of the draw anymore because the caps just took it.

and since caps charge 7x slower than they discharge they wont stress out the system recovering either, and because they have to recover your lights will still dim. thats why alot of people hate on caps becuse they do nothing for dimming lights, well they dont because thats not what they are for... even if the box says so that is not what its for